Arrow Hangover, What is your thoughts oh great one's

[Tatorbones]

I have some arrows I ordered and entered them into stu's calculator for my new bow that is coming in the mail. If I leave the arrows full length at like 32" then all I need according to the calculations is a 125 grain tip. but if I cut them down to 30 1/4 then I need a 160 grain tip. Or something like that.

So my arrow hang over question is if you get good arrow flight with less tip weight with full length or would you trim the arrow so it does not hang over and increase tip weight?

I ask this because is order to trim I need to find a saw or go up to shop or something.

Your greater knowledge on the subject is greatly appreciated.  

[Zradix]

just wait for the bow.

......relax....

what type of arrow (wood, Al,Carbon)?

[Dryfired]

Keep the arrows long because it's quite difficult to make them longer once you've cut them down. Try different weight tips when you get the arrows and then cut them down if necessary. The amount of arrow weight and FOC is personal preference for the most part until you're hunting tough game. I prefer a heavy, high FOC arrow, but that's my preference.

The calculator is not correct for every bow, think of it as a rough starting point that has error in either direction.

[ishoot4thrills]

Arrow overhang matters NOT. Many, many carbon arrow trad shooters use arrows that are longer than what is absolutely necessary, including me.

[JRY309]

I let my arrow tuning determine their final length,overhang does not matter to me.I don't use any calculator other then my bareshaft tuning.

[vermonster13]

Accuracy trumps looks every time in arrow length.

[Guru]

Well, I guess I'm different.....

Both arrows flying well.....I'll take the shorter every time!

I don't like arrow overhang.....I hate arrows that are too long in my bow quiver.....and I love any extra weight I can get on the end of my arrows....higher FOC has many, many advantages!

I like all my arrows to be 29", or just a tad more if need be....

[Night Wing]

I have a 30" draw length and I shoot 32" arrows. The 32" arrow length is a constant. The arrow is never shorter than 32" and it's never longer than 32". So, for me, I don't bare shaft tune.

Using Stu's calculator; I find the correct spined aluminum arrow, I plug in the point weights I want to shoot, along with all the other correct info in those 14 boxes of the calculator and then I fine tune by adjusting the brace height up or down. A higher brace height for lower point weights and for higher point weights, I lower the brace height.

Since my two 66" Blacktail TDs come with a recommended brace height of 7 3/4"-8", I set the brace height at 7 3/4" and go from there, lower or higher, depending on point weight.

[reddogge]

As mentioned overall weight is important also. If the arrow is tuned well but is light, adding insert and/or point weight to a shorter shaft is one way to accomplish that and still have a tuned arrow.

[RM81]

Just make sure to test them before you make any cuts.

[bigbadjon]

For hunting distances I think a longer arrow is an assett for Point of Aim or Gap shooting. The longer arrow gives you smaller gaps. I try to shoot the longest arrow possible but I sometimes have to come down some for tunings sake.

[Orion]

I shoot arrows with one-inch of overhang behind the point.  Pretty easy to do this with woodies.  There are several reasons I don't like arrows longer than necessary.  First, an extra couple of inches in the bow quiver can lead to nocks full of dirt if I lean my bow against a tree, depending on bow length of course.  With longer arrows, I'm more likely to scrape them across my clothing, on either my lap or legs, when maneuvering a bow in the tree stand. The extra arrow length is more likely to hit/catch on more brush as well.  Also makes it more difficult and creates more arm movement to get an (a second) arrow out of the quiver and position it on the bow in tight quarters in a tree stand.  None of this makes any difference when shooting targets, of course, but it can cause a missed shot opportunity while hunting.

[bigbadjon]

I also have to shoot some shorter when I use swaged aluminums. Archers have to roll with many compromises.

[Night Wing]

With my 30" draw length, I shoot 32" arrows instead of 31" arrows and I'll explain why below.

When I was 18 years old, that was when I stopped growing and I had a 30" draw length. I shot 31" arrows. This gave me 1" of clearance between the back of a broadhead and the front of the shelf.  I also shoot off the shelf.

When I was 23 years old, I drew down on the biggest racked whitetail buck deer I had ever seen. It had at least 16 points and the rack was heavy beamed. I was shooting a 3 blade broadhead and the broadhead was mounted "Y" shaped.

My left hand that grips the bow, the knuckle on my index finger sticks out 1/2" in front of the shelf. That left me, at the time, with 1/2" of clearance between my knuckle and the back of that very sharp 3 blade broadhead shooting a 31" arrow.

I got so excited at seeing that buck at around 15 yards, I overdrew past my anchor point. The back of the broadhead where the the bottom blade was vertical, sliced my knuckle to the bone.

Suffice to say, I didn't get the shot away since I dropped the bow when I felt the pain. I did get 2 stitches at the emergency room though.

After that humbling and painful experience, from then on I've always shot 32" arrows because I want 1 1/2" clearance between the back of any broadhead and the knuckle on my left index finger.  

Like the old saying goes, "Pain........is an excellent teacher".

[Tatorbones]

well thanks a lot guys I will defiantly take that into consideration when I start tuning my arrows to fit my bow. Their is just a guy we shoot with that is always looking to shave a few inches off his arrow to shoot a flatter trajectory, something he picked up from rick welch I think. He always makes the comments about how I can still shave an inch or two off my arrow. I'm thinking like a inch or two is really going to help that much.

So I am going to start with them long and then just try and find a good point weight and if I have to cut them I will find a way to cut them.

All of my TG family yall are a big help all the time.

[Bobaru]

Using Stu Miller's calculator is great.  But, that's just the first step.  As his calculator shows, there is a great allowance for "personal form factor" which sums up a whole lot of unknowns.  

What that means is, your arrows may or may not fly well.

Finally, find out for yourself about this issue of high FOC and or heavy point weights.  Except for a guy named Ashby, there's no evidence to support such a thing.  And, even Ashby says his work is "not scientific."  What that means for yourself it that you should not be unduly influenced by "conventional wisdom."  I've found that I cannot find any measurable difference between high FOC arrows, arrows with heavy point weight and those arrows you will most likely find at the archery shop.  And, I've tried to find a difference.  

So, start by leaving your arrows long and use your 125 gr heads.  And, go from there.  That's my opinion.