Finishing Hill Bow Blanks.....How Hard??

[Nala]

Hey all,

I have looked at the blanks offered by some of the bowyers on here and thought about how hard they would be to complete for someone that has NEVER built anything out of wood....EVER.  Not even a BirdHouse in junior high or high school.  So that's where I'm coming from.

I am primarily talking about the Howard Hill blanks, but I also like the Dryad and 7 Lakes blanks as well.

If I ordered a blank and got the tools they suggest, what are the chances I would end up with a nice Hill Bow when I was done?  I would also want a locator style grip.  What kind of instructions come with them?  For someone that has never done anything like that, it LOOKS like a rather daunting project to tackle.  Heck I ain't sure I could get a decent leather grip on it when I was done.  It sure sounds like it would be a hoot to try though.

My fear is that I would end up with about $300 worth of kindling....

What say you guys?

You can PM me if you want to discuss more.

Thanks for your time and help.

Nalajr

[michaelschwister]

With the hill blanks all you need is a rattail fine, some sandpaper, and two cans of helsman spar urathane (one glass in the wipe on can and one semi in a spray can).  Pretty easy.  All the even mildly challenging things are done.

[Rob DiStefano]

if it all sounds that intimidating to you, take yer $300 and buy used.

[d. ward]

what Rob said....300 bucks is alot of dough to start a fire with.And or first you may want to contact some of the fine bowyers here on TG and see if they will give you a few pointers on finishing the bow ??? bd

[Rob DiStefano]

imo, the bow finishing is too easy, it's the woodworking and sanding that can get complicated for someone who barely uses a screwdriver.  add to this that, for the very most part, a craig built hill blank will be WAY overweight from the requested draw weight/arrow length, unless yer hip to this issue and order the draw weight accordingly.  if it arrives with too much weight, LOTS of limb sanding will be required, and i do mean LOTS.  that could present a tillering issue.  then, you have to cut out the arrow shelf, shape the limb nocks, and fully shape the handle - not for someone who doesn't understand woodworking.

[stabow]

One thing about a bow blank the resale is greatly diminish you can buy a used one and if you don’t like it you can get your money back on a resale not so on a blank. That’s just my 2 cents.....stabow

[OP-archer]

If you buy a blank from Mike @ 7-Lakes, he will finish the bow to your desired comfort level (i.e. he will cut the shelf and form the riser to your specs; put in riser/tip overlays, etc). You do not pay extra for the shelf/riser work and a minimual charge for the overlays.  I got one from him and it required alot of sanding and poly - but it turned out nice.

[rjackson]

I think it would be a great project for you. You could have more ability than you think. Its not that hard. Take your time and finish what you start. I thought i couldnt build a takedown but i did its a great shooting bow. go for it you will surprise yourself. good luck,Randy

[Bjorn]

If you talk too a bowyer he will tell you the hardest part to making a bow is 'finishing' not building. That should give you some idea of the skills you need to develop before tackling a serious project. Like others have suggested buy a used bow instead.

[canopyboy]

If you really just want a bow, buy a used bow for $300 as mentioned here.  Or if you want it just so, pay to have it done new.

If the bow doesn't shoot well when you're done, there's always the question of whether the bow style/length/poundage isn't for you or whether you didn't quite finish it right and the tiller is a little off, etc.  Stabow makes a good point too.

My grandfather built bows, I grew up in my dad's cabinet shop, and I've built several now myself as well.  That said, I've learned a lot in the process of finishing a Hill blank that I bought this winter.  And I'm still tinkering trying to get that blank just right.  I had it all finished, then I re-worked the grip a bit.  Now after talking with a Hill-style bowyer at length I'm tweaking the tiller a bit more.

Sorry, I don't want to be discouraging.  If you want to do it to learn and take on new challenges, it's still worth considering.  But you might want to make sure you have someone lined up to help a little bit given what you said about your skillset.  And spend some time over on the bowyer's bench forum!

[Greg Skinner]

Some really good comments here, most of which I must agree with.  

I just finished my 3rd Hill blank.  The first one I tried was a Cheetah that cost $275 in 2002.  I installed the Connexion Hinge on it and it came out pretty well for a first try, and I figured the most I could lose would be the $275 and I would learn something in the process.  

The Tembo blank I got 3 years ago was $400 with carbon, and I finished it as a 1-piece.  The Redman I just finished was again with the TD Hinge. It was about $460 with the carbon (the cost of the blanks does keep increasing as time goes by) and the hinge cost almost $100, so I would have been out a bit of cash had I screwed it up - which, fortunately, I didn't.

Moneywise, if you have doubts about your handyman abilities, you are probably better off buying a bow that is finished.  If you want to gamble a bit and enjoy taking on a new challenge, it is a great way to get a taste of what bow building is about without the investment of time and money necessary to buy raw materials, forms etc.  You just have to approach it from the standpoint that if you mess it up, it was a fun, learning experience.

Personally, I doubt that I will ever buy another finished bow.  I truly enjoy the finishing process and particularly like being able to create exactly what I want in terms of fit, draw weight, etc.

I may have just lucked out, because I don't know much about the tillering process, but the last two I finished came out perfectly for my shooting style.  I was just careful to sand the same amount of strokes so as not to alter the tiller the way Craig sent it.

The bows I shoot the best and the most are those I have either finished or "customized" in some way, but that is just my experience.  The problem I have had in buying either new or used bows has always been that there always seems to be something that doesn't quite fit right and then I'm always reluctant to make any alterations because it will devalue or ruin the bow.

[Mike Taylor2]

The Hill blanks now start at $375 with no arrow shelf /Hill website.  You have to cut it in yourself. Their list of tools should include bandsaw for cutting out the shelf, this is not something you can do with sandpaper and a rat tail file.  

The 7 Lakes starts at $250 and the shelf is cut and completely roughed in ready to sand.  A palm sander, sandpaper and about 3-4 hours is all you need.  I don't see any way to mess this one up and I love mine.

Sorry, I have no experience with the Dryad.

[ron w]

I have finished a Dyrad and one from Apex Pedator. I didn't find it hard ,but I have worked with my hands for 38 years as a toolmaker. Like Rob D. said for the same money you can get a used bow and just go shoot it!

I have done a number of them for myself and others.  I use a 3/8" file for the arrow shelf, a 1/8" smooth rat tail for the string groves or a dremmel tool. way over the target weight is an understatement, by the time I got the ones I have done within 3 pounds of the target the started string grooves would have been long gone at the width that I take the limbs down to.  The best of the bunch had a good quick taper and I took down to Schulz dimensions, but it was closer to a 2/4 when it came out of the box. Maybe they are getting cut a little closer these days.  I use 2 inch block when fine tillering to check the bend and a tracing of either a 68 or a 66 inch Schulz to double check my progress.  I prefer things a little more whip ended than the normal bow, having something to compare it with is vital for me. We have had no failures at all doing this and if I could justify getting another new longbow it is the only way I would go.  I was going to do a 7 Lakes for a friend but then I came across an earlier custom model in perfect condition with a lot of very fine detail work done by Ballenger and I bought that for my friend instead.  I would recommend the 7 Lakes in his r/d model for a first time do it your self project, they are great bows.

[joekeith]

Dryad has quit making their bow blanks.