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Author Topic: woodsman initial sharpening  (Read 707 times)

Offline Gary Logsdon

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Re: woodsman initial sharpening
« Reply #20 on: August 15, 2011, 04:38:00 PM »
I'm not saying that this is the situation with any of you fellows, but I see so many guys these days that simply don't understand the basics of producing a cutting edge.  They don't seem to understand what I call "burr technology":^)
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Online Terry Lightle

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Re: woodsman initial sharpening
« Reply #21 on: August 15, 2011, 09:34:00 PM »
I do mine like Jake said file them get the edge straight then go to super light strokes to finish the edge to shaving sharp
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Offline Terry Green

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Re: woodsman initial sharpening
« Reply #22 on: August 15, 2011, 09:45:00 PM »
'Initial Sharpening' is done on the belt sander for me....the goal is to get them sharp...and the best way to to that is to get ALL the bevels the same and FLAT....NOT concave to a level surface like most come.

Once the Bevels are equal and flat....it s cinch to get them sharp on most diamond stones, soft stone, ceramic etc....
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Offline Sharpster

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Re: woodsman initial sharpening
« Reply #23 on: August 15, 2011, 09:57:00 PM »
Quote
Originally posted by Gary Logsdon:
I'm not saying that this is the situation with any of you fellows, but I see so many guys these days that simply don't understand the basics of producing a cutting edge.  They don't seem to understand what I call "burr technology":^)
Bingo!

I coach self-procaimed "sharpening challenged" people everyday and I find that the issue is almost never a lack of hand-eye co-ordination or manual dexterity, the majority of sharpening failure is due to a lack of understanding of the process. Knowing what the goal of each stage of the sharpening process is, and being able to recognize when that goal has been achieved is far more important than anything else.

The most important tip I can give as to sharpening any type of blade is this: 90% of sharpening anything is accomplished at the coarsest stage, be that a file, belt sander or your coarsest stone. If we don't get the blade sharp (and I mean very sharp) right at stage one, then moving on to finer grits will only polish the bevels, it will not get the blade any sharper. (translation- your coarsest stone or file is your best friend).

Ron
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Offline ymountainman

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Re: woodsman initial sharpening
« Reply #24 on: August 15, 2011, 10:22:00 PM »
Hey Mr.Ron i have a kme and love it. Im am trying to sharpen 4blade deltas on it. I can work around the bleeders but i have to run the stone length ways of the blades i can barely get it to shave will this get one poppin hair sharp? im wandering if im goin past the edge like im sharpening too much? Thanks to all

Offline hill boy

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Re: woodsman initial sharpening
« Reply #25 on: August 15, 2011, 10:42:00 PM »
Terry's deal works.The belt sander takes the work out of it.After the sander I hit just a few strokes with good file and then the diamond stone for a polished edge.
                                       good luck
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Offline ALwoodsman

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Re: woodsman initial sharpening
« Reply #26 on: August 16, 2011, 10:54:00 AM »
I got the blades flat on one, but man it took alot of metal off.  I tried a different way of sharpening where, instead of pushing or pulling 2 of the blades down the file. you run a file across 2 of the blades while the head is on an arrow.  I had one shaving sharp in about 3 minutes with this method.

Offline Gary Logsdon

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Re: woodsman initial sharpening
« Reply #27 on: August 16, 2011, 12:14:00 PM »
Ron's right . . . hey, that sounds kinda catchy!!
Gary Logsdon

Offline JamesKerr

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Re: woodsman initial sharpening
« Reply #28 on: August 16, 2011, 07:06:00 PM »
I use a 6" file but use it as Dale shows in his video on how to sharpen the woodsman. I ride out the bend in the head so I don't remove as much metal. Just another way of doing things.
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Offline Gator1

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Re: woodsman initial sharpening
« Reply #29 on: August 15, 2012, 07:54:00 AM »
back up,

question on the sanding belt, when you initially even out the grind, are you placing the WW perpendicular to the belt? Or Paralell.

I'm assuming light pressure.

1. Do you mount the head to a small secton of shaft.
2. Hold it with Pliers


I've got a dozen originals, and I'm liking the belt sander idea more and more...

Offline Sharpster

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Re: woodsman initial sharpening
« Reply #30 on: August 15, 2012, 08:06:00 AM »
Quote
Originally posted by Rob DiStefano:
 
Quote
Originally posted by ALwoodsman:
I have a brand new file.  The problem seems to be that the edge of the broadheads are not consistent. They almost seem to be concave.  I am only getting the bottom of the broadhead and the tip touching  on the file.
that's it, that's yer problem - not getting the blade edges dead straight.  

it CAN be done with a file (new one!) with a WHOLE buncha elbow grease.  

but i'd rather use a sanding station belt, or belt sander, and 120 grit abrasive.  makes super quick work of evening out the blades, and taking off that needle nose point - you wanna "chisel" that a bit.

there ya go - have at it and get those killer woodsman shaving sharp in less time that it took me to type this post up!     :wavey:  [/b]
Cha ching! Rob nailed it.  :thumbsup:  

I'd only add that whenever we're sharpening or filing any kind of blade, if we go 5 minutes without making  very  noticable progress... that means whatever stone grit or file we're using isn't coarse enough.

I'd also use a 50 or 60 grit belt (zirconia, or silicon carbide) to quickly flatten the heads without generating a bunch of heat. Once all the ink is gone and you've got a nice burr running tip to tail on all 3 blades it's all over but the shaving.


Ron
“We choose to do these things, not because they are easy, but because they are hard” — JFK

 www.kmesharp.com

TGMM Family of the Bow

Offline Sharpster

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Re: woodsman initial sharpening
« Reply #31 on: August 15, 2012, 08:19:00 AM »
Quote
Originally posted by Gator1:
back up,

question on the sanding belt, when you initially even out the grind, are you placing the WW perpendicular to the belt? Or Paralell.

I'm assuming light pressure.

1. Do you mount the head to a small secton of shaft.
2. Hold it with Pliers


I've got a dozen originals, and I'm liking the belt sander idea more and more...
Mitch, hold the BHD parallel with the tip pointing the same direction that the belt is turning. I don't mount the head on a section of shaft but you could. I've personally never had a BHD catch and get thrown but it certainly could happen. Gotta be very careful with power tools. If you're not comfortable with it don't do it. Call me if you need help.

Ron
“We choose to do these things, not because they are easy, but because they are hard” — JFK

 www.kmesharp.com

TGMM Family of the Bow

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