Give your bow a low glare finish ( update )

[Zradix]

Thanks for the heads up Rob.

Who knows..might make it look super custom..lol

I guess if I don't like it I can respray that area a bit.
'cept this time I'll have some poly left over for something else..lol

[LONGSTYKES]

Good job, She looks very classy. I like her new look.

[FarmerMarley]

I've been wondering how to do something like this to my bow. Thanks for the post, I am gonna try this method.

[BenBow]

How's this finish holding up? I used some verithane satin exterior poly and went to a 3D last weekend and it has a bunch of fine scratches from that. My base finish is the 2-part epoxy which is tough as nails so a bit disappointed in the poly.

[Zradix]

Just did it 7/31.
Of course it's fine so far.

I don't mind a few scratches any way.

I'm sure this isn't as hard as epoxy.

I don't have a sprayer either...lol
Wish I did.

Normally the true exterior finishes are softer.
This is an interior spray.

After calling minwax, the main difference between interior and exterior finishes is the exterior has UV "blockers" in it that help the finish and the wood not deteriorate from intense sun light.
Those same blockers are what make the finish softer.

Both repel water just as well.

My bows don't really spend that much time in the sun...not like a deck, door, ship's mast that the exterior is designed for.

We'll see...

[Zradix]

The finish has held up great through hunting this year.

No problems at all.
There are a few little tiny scruffs on the side of the limbs from laying down the bow in the dirt while hunting.

Just tiny stuff, might not even do any thing about it...but then again it could be fixed with about 30 sec of steel wooling, 5 sec of spraying and 15 mins of drying...maybe I will fix it..lol

OH!...Rob was right. The texture did smooth out a bit on the grip. Not glossy smooth by a long shot.
But it is a bit smoother.

Still has more texture than it did when new though.

[kennym]

Good lookin job! And the grip part will have yer hand wrapped around it when it counts we hope! LOL

[LC]

Looks great. Not sure if it's a local supply think but all the MinWax spray poly in my neck of the woods is rated INDOOR only and hasn't held up to the test of time on my bows.

I've been using a spray poly for Ace Hardware (their brand) that is rated indoor or outdoor and is cheaper!  Has worked great for me on my last couple bows I've made and some I've refinished. I too finish with "over spray" so you get a textured really non satin finish.

[Holm-Made]

Nice job.  I like your do it yourself attitude.  

Minwax Helmsman spar urethane is their product they use for outdoors.  It has a UV protectant in it as the sun is what breaks down the finish after awhile.  It does have an amber tint to it but so does the oil based poly urethane.  I've had good luck with the Helsman but it has been 8-10 years since I used it.

You could have used a more aggressive steel wool to rough it up more, you'd never see the scratches when your done.  I'd also recommend a full coat of the satin on top of the brushed on gloss.  Then texture over that.  Eventually the texture will wear off and you still have a full coat of satin under it.  

Just sharing what worked for me in the past.  Hope you don't mind.  Enjoy,  Chad

[Shifting Shadow]

I think you are on to something there. I will be finishing a bow soon. Yours is a timely post!

[Swamp Yankee]

I've used the "interior" minwax satin spray poly for years and it's held up great on a couple of my restored Red Wings for over 5 years.  As mentioned, the only difference between interior and exterior is the UV blocker, which is simply not necessary for a bow.

[Zradix]

Originally posted by Holm-Made:
Nice job.  I like your do it yourself attitude.  

Minwax Helmsman spar urethane is their product they use for outdoors.  It has a UV protectant in it as the sun is what breaks down the finish after awhile.  It does have an amber tint to it but so does the oil based poly urethane.  I've had good luck with the Helsman but it has been 8-10 years since I used it.

You could have used a more aggressive steel wool to rough it up more, you'd never see the scratches when your done.  I'd also recommend a full coat of the satin on top of the brushed on gloss.  Then texture over that.  Eventually the texture will wear off and you still have a full coat of satin under it.  

Just sharing what worked for me in the past.  Hope you don't mind.  Enjoy,  Chad

Thanks for the hints.
I'll take words of experience over theory any day!
     

I wouldn't do this for a sealing coat at all.
The bow still had 98%+ of its factory seal on when I started....I just rough it up a bit for adhesion.

The plan was just to add a low glare top coat that was cheap and easy to an already protected bow.
If it didn't last very well, I figured I could redo it as needed.

Seems to be ok so far..but it's only been a few months...who knows.

Just thought it would be a shame to go over it with ultra-flat krylon.

[nlester]

I just recently traded for a Crow Creek takedown and it shines like a "Christmas Tree", which drives me nuts.  I think I'll try that on her and see what happens.  I most definitely like the finish on your bow Zradix.  Thanks for the info.

[LONGSTYKES]

Looks great, like the non glare. Thanks for the info.

[Bigriver]

Nice job. A few hints. Steel wool has oil in it to keep it from rusting. It can sometimes cause problems with the finish and adhesion.

A better choice to wipe things down before refinish is denatured alcohol. It dries faster & is less oily than spirits.

AS long as the bow has the factory finish on it, no problem with the minwax. A good flat finish choice is also the Deft int/ext spray varnish. The satin is very flat.