Noobie Questions...I can use some help.

[emt137]

Hi Guys,

I recently got into archery as a sport and traditional archery specifically.  I've been shooting regularly for about a month and a bit.  I've been reading on here a lot and trying to learn what I can.

I bought a new Bear Grizzly recurve with a 45# pull.  The shop I go to seems to have a pretty solid trad selection and the guys appear to have some knowledge.  I bought the bow and it was "set-up" by the shop.  I ended up with half dozen Easton Gamegetter II 2216 (I believe those are the numbers) that had been refurbished.  I am using the factory string with some cat whisker silencers.  I was told my pull is right about 28"-29".  

I have been shooting from 10 yards working on form more than accuracy and feel that I have figured out what works for me.  This last week I have been working on my accuracy a little and my groups seem to be consistent (about 5" or so) but the location is inconsistent.  I messed around with split finger and three under and settled on 3 under as the most comfortable and consistent for me.

I notice some fishtailing and wobbling of my arrows sometimes and the nocks will sit off to the left or the right, but this is not all the time though.

Nothing as far as I know has been done to the brace height or getting arrows to match the bow.

I recently purchased a like new Bear Montana (55#) off the classifieds here and just in trying it out found I shoot it far better than my recurve.  I was consistently shooting 4" (or less) groups.  They were also generally hitting where I was intending to hit.  What could be causing this big difference?

How do I "tune" a bow?  How do I figure out what brace height is the best for me?  How do I figure out what arrows would be the best for my bow?  What are the differences in bow strings?  I guess after seeing the radical difference in bow performance and my own shooting I feel overwhelmed.  I think I've really missed something or just don't get it, if that makes sense.

I apologize for the length of my post but wanted to give a little background so I could get the best help possible.  Thanks in advance for the help.

Pat

[b.glass]

Have you checked out the "Newbie" thread at the top of this forum?

I don't think you can go from a split finger release to a three under release without some adjustments of some kind with your nock point or something and maintain accuracy.

I've always shot split finger so I don't know how exactly to help except to look at the above thread.

Bona

[mscampbell75]

http://www.bowmaker.net/index2.htm

This is the way I tune mine.  I'm fairly new to this compared to some on tradgang.  But following this I've got my arrows flying like darts.  I love being able to watch my arrows spin as they hit the target.

I think your arrows are way overspined for your bow.  

Good luck!

[b.glass]

I just looked at that thread and it is not what I thought it was. Sorry to mislead you. I knew someone would jump in here and help you though!

I do know that you can get alot of help with all of this on the "Shooter's" forum.

Bona

[Rob DiStefano]

welcome to trad gang, pat.  

if at all possible, seek one-on-one trad archery mentor help locally - clubs are great for that.  it's very difficult, if not impossible, to coach via the media.

there's a 'trad archery' link in my sig line that may help.

[Pat B]

Accuracy comes with lots and lots of consistant practice. It doesn't matter if you shoot split finger, three under, pull to your ear, your chest or the corner of your mouth, consistancy and lots of practice is what makes a good shooter.
  There is very little "tuning" that need to be done to a trad bow. Brace height and nock point being about all I can think of. Properly spined arrows is the key to accuracy if you are a well practiced, consistant shooter. No matter how well your bow is "tuned" you will not be accurate without properly spined arrows and they have to be tuned for you(your method of shooting) and your bow. Once you have arrows tuned for your shooting and your bow it is practice, practice, practice, practice that makes you a good shot.

[PrarrieDog]

I'm guessing your arrows are more matched to the 55# bow than the 45# bow. That might be the reason they fly better and hit where you want.
2016's might fly better fron the 45.
There are threads here that will go into detail about tuning so I won't repeat that here.
I will say, practice regularly and remember consistancy is key. It's better to release three arrows perfectly that dozens without consistancy.
Good luck and God bless.

[JimB]

The information above should help you a lot.Just so you know,2216's are spined way to stiff for your bow.Easton's charts are notoriously stiff.Look at the recommended aluminum sizes in the tuning article that mscampbell75 gave you.It is way more accurate.1916's would be way more like it.2216's will never give you good flight out of a 45 lb bow with any normal weight points.

[Rob DiStefano]

Originally posted by b.glass:
I just looked at that thread and it is not what I thought it was. Sorry to mislead you. I knew someone would jump in here and help you though!

I do know that you can get alot of help with all of this on the "Shooter's" forum.

Bona

thanx for the head's up, link fixed!  

[finq]

Since there's a newbie topic fresh here, I won't bother making an own thread and just ask here.

I thought about getting a bow quiver.
This particular one to be exact.
 https://www.sherwood-bogensport.de/shop/images/artikel/RIV1250.jpg  (kinda big picture, won't embed)

I was thinking that it's a lot of money and thought that it's not worth it, if the quiver will influence the performance of the bow in a bad way.

I'm shooting a 62" Ragim Impala with 47#@28".
The quiver is obviously mounted to the limbs and my bow has no inserts to put a compound quiver on it.

So my question is do bow quivers influence the performance of the bow?

[**DONOTDELETE**]

Originally posted by finq:
Since there's a newbie topic fresh here, I won't bother making an own thread and just ask here.

I thought about getting a bow quiver.
This particular one to be exact.
  https://www.sherwood-bogensport.de/shop/images/artikel/RIV1250.jpg   (kinda big picture, won't embed)

I was thinking that it's a lot of money and thought that it's not worth it, if the quiver will influence the performance of the bow in a bad way.

I'm shooting a 62" Ragim Impala with 47#@28".
The quiver is obviously mounted to the limbs and my bow has no inserts to put a compound quiver on it.

So my question is do bow quivers influence the performance of the bow?

As long as you keep the limb mounted quiver down close as possible to your hand and past the fades on your riser, the only effect it will have is the balance of the bow in your hand. Once you get used to the feel of it you are fine.....

if you get it too far out on the limbs it will screw you up big time and effect the bows performance.

[30coupe]

Welcome to the gang! I agree that you will have much better luck with the 1916s out of the 45# bow. I'm not much of a fan of fat aluminum arrows either, so I wouldn't go over a 2016 or maybe 2018 out of the 55#er either. That's more personal preference than anything else though.

I shoot mostly carbons lately. ICS Bowhunters are no more expensive than aluminum, they are quieter, and easier to front load (get as much weight toward the point as you can). Front loading gives better arrow flight and penetration as a rule.

As to the bow quiver question. As KirkII said, as long as you keep the mounting points as close to the riser (in the fades, not the working part of the limb) there should be no negative effects. Some bows even shoot quieter with a quiver attached. Obviously the weight and balance will change, which can effect your accuracy. Practice with the quiver on and loaded with hunting weight arrows - minus one - and you will soon be shooting as good or better as with a bare bow.

I'm not familiar with Ragim bows, so I can't suggest a quiver. I would recommend trying as many as you can on your bow before you buy, or you will end up like many of us with quite a collection.    My rule of thumb is to balance the quiver to the bow. I use a very light Eagle Flight quiver on my Kanati, which is a very lightweight bow. I use a heavier Thunderhorn Linx quiver on my Orion, which is probably twice as heavy as the Kanati. The Linx sucked on the Kanati, but I love it on the Orion. I like that I can slip the Linx off when turkey hunting from a blind, so I don't have to worry about scraping fletching against something and making noise at the wrong time.
I have a Selway limb bolt quiver on my three piece Badger, the heaviest bow I own. It is a fairly light quiver. The Badger is heavy enough to begin with.

Hope this helps!