No problem. The arrow shafts you select will all depend upon the spine (stiffness). I would imagine that if you draw 28", and want to dabble with aluminums, you could try 2016s, 2018s or 2117s out. The first two numbers speak of overall outside shaft diameter; the second two numbers are for wall thickness. Therefore, a 2016 will be as big around as a 2018, but the 2018 will be stiffer, due to the thicker wall. The 2117 will be stiffer yet. There are charts available that will give you a lot of detail about shaft characteristics. If you want a stiffer shaft to flex more upon release, leave it longer and/or put heavier tips on it. If it's flexing too much, put lighter tips on it or else cut it down. Use small increments, so not to go too short accidentally. I have a 31" draw, so I have decided to leave my shafts full-length and just mess with the tip weight.
If you take a complete arrow, minus the feathers, and shoot it, you will be able to see how a particular set up would fly without the feathers doing their job of correcting the flight. An arrow that is too stiff will catch the riser and be directed into a trajectory that goes off toward your bow-hand side (left, for a right-handed shooter). You will see this by watching it fly at about 20yards, as it will be pointing that direction. If the shaft is too weak (flexible) at that particular setup, it will bend too much as it goes out of the bow, catching a little air resistance, and going off toward your release-hand side. A properly-tuned arrow will flex as it leaves the bow, and will flex enough to clear the riser, but will properly recover instead of going crooked. This is critical when you shoot broadheads, because they will want to catch air, and plane off to one side or the other. This will affect the flight of that shaft, even with feathers on it.
This can get really complex, and some guys really get into it. This explanation is pretty basic, Arrow Flight 101. I just want to be able to shoot my bow(s) with the right arrows, so am not an expert by any means. But all I've learned has been through this site, Traditional Bowhunter magazine, and the very helpful owner's manual DVD that Black Widow sent me when I bought a BW bow. They have a whole section on how to achieve good arrow flight, and it made a big difference for me.
But before you can really tune for left/right (spine), you have to make sure your nock height is somewhat right. If your arrows are banging the shelf as they go over it, it will make your arrow flight too inconsistent to tune well. If you don't know how to do this, a search here on Tradgang will bring up past conversations that will explain it.
Archie
Topic: New guy in the dark with questions... (Read 223 times)
