Author Topic: homemade lumenok build-along !! (Read 8947 times)

KyleAllen · « **Reply #20 on:** September 25, 2006, 05:49:00 PM »

20 hours

jchunt4ever · « **Reply #21 on:** October 16, 2006, 09:11:00 AM »

You can also purchase the lights directly from the manufacturer online at rod-n-bobbs.com

LazerRay · « **Reply #22 on:** October 16, 2006, 01:18:00 PM »

Steve O · « **Reply #23 on:** October 12, 2007, 06:34:00 PM »

To the Top for "The Dark Side" :D

joseph_valencia · « **Reply #24 on:** October 12, 2007, 10:55:00 PM »

Hi Kyle: How about footing a wood shaft with a piece of alluminum to facilitate the light? Just a thought. Might work.

deadpool · « **Reply #25 on:** October 12, 2007, 10:59:00 PM »

shoo i would invest in a lumenok for wooden arrows in a heartbeat!!!

joseph_valencia · « **Reply #26 on:** October 12, 2007, 11:04:00 PM »

HI TGangers: I just noticed that this thread was first posted on 09 of 2006. Oh well, what the hey.

DAGATOR · « **Reply #27 on:** November 25, 2007, 06:39:00 PM »

Her ya go guys. I have been trying to think of a way to make it work with wooden arrows for years now. I finally decided to try something so simple that it would never work for some reason (I thought to myself). Well, it works great! I just shot my first buck with the set-up yesterday. Clean arrow flight and a pass through. It worked great on my practice arrow so I tried it out for the real deal. Just use super glue gel and make sure to not glue the moving part. I have shot this battery about eight hours so far and it still has juice. It is still a little bloody from my last deer. One can physically snap it off the arrow with a lot of power to remove it if you want to for some reason. I have only used them on arrows with paper glue on wraps so I'm not 100% directly on wood. But, I feel sure it will work directly on wood. The pictures say it all.
Clay

D. Johnston · « **Reply #28 on:** November 25, 2007, 08:15:00 PM »

Clay, are you turning that on before you shoot? I can't see how it would come on otherwise. Thanks, David

DAGATOR · « **Reply #29 on:** November 25, 2007, 09:46:00 PM »

Yes David. Just a simple push of the thumb is all it takes.

D. Johnston · « **Reply #30 on:** November 25, 2007, 11:05:00 PM »

Does that mean you are turning it on before you draw? Or can you do it at full draw? I think I would be distracted by the light if I had to draw it while it was illuminated. Can you shed some light on this for me. David

mmgrode · « **Reply #31 on:** November 25, 2007, 11:09:00 PM »

Now that's thinking Kyle! Thanks for posting this!

KyleAllen · « **Reply #32 on:** November 25, 2007, 11:11:00 PM »

man, its been a day or two since i saw this thread, lol. Somebody did some diggin to find this one.

DAGATOR · « **Reply #33 on:** November 26, 2007, 09:07:00 AM »

David, my pull (anchor) is higher than most people. I shoot shield feathers and I draw back till my cock feather touches the tip of my nose. I never seem to have any trouble with a distracting light. I turn the light on right before I pull back. When one pulls the arrow back, it sets below your eyes so you can't see the light. Just try it. It only cost three bucks and what a edge it gives you!
Clay

see · « **Reply #34 on:** November 26, 2007, 09:32:00 AM »

man you could give a man details on doing surgery on someone.very well done.i love it when someone comes along and can give detailed instructions,thanks esp the pictures included.

trapper1 · « **Reply #35 on:** November 26, 2007, 01:02:00 PM »

if you have to push the nock to turn it on, why would it not come one automatically when you shoot? the pressure from the string should turn it on...am I missing something here.
let me know please
Trapper

JEFF B · « **Reply #36 on:** November 26, 2007, 01:43:00 PM »

yup trapper it is glued to the side of the wooden arrow so you have to turn it on all by your little old self no help from the string as the nock does not touch the light.

hickstick · « **Reply #37 on:** November 26, 2007, 02:48:00 PM »

kyle...noticed you didn't recommend sanding the insert part of the nock. if you nocks fit too snuggly into the shaft (my easton and bohning singature do) you need to sand them a bit to make the 'pull to turn off part' work. if its too snug and you really have to pull hard to can start to damage the shaft (start small splits)

also...noticed you don't drill all the way through the nock....most of the other build alongs I've seen recommend that so its a lot brighter. so thats the way I did it, but the hole gets very caked up with blood on pass thrus and I can't figure a way to clean it out. now putting a drop or two of glue in there might help towards that problem.

I've got pics at home (haven't uploaded to photobucket yet). they are all bohning signature clear nocks and haven't yet had any kind of failure.

PS...also had a friend give me a few nocks from his easton axis slims and I could not get the insert barrel drilled out enough to insert the light without weakening the nocks.

anybody have a way to work with the super slim nocks?????

trapper the 'inserted into carbons' nocks turn on with shot inertia, the one that dagator posted is just glued to the side of a solid arrow so its not touching the string at all...shot inertia wont turn it on.

trapper1 · « **Reply #38 on:** November 26, 2007, 09:19:00 PM »

hmmm now I feel like an idiot, I never read all the posts, went back and read all the way through.thanks hickstick
Trapper

Chris · « **Reply #39 on:** November 27, 2007, 12:14:00 PM »

Great idea Clay. I'm gonna hafta add this to a couple of my woodies.

chris


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Author Topic: homemade lumenok build-along !! (Read 8947 times)

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