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Author Topic: Need a little more help with my Woodsman broadheads  (Read 488 times)

Offline xtrema312

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Re: Need a little more help with my Woodsman broadheads
« Reply #20 on: September 30, 2011, 07:33:00 PM »
I am close. I got one of those racker files from a chain saw shop near work, and that got me a little sharper. It is a little more fine a cut than my 10 or maybe it is 12" file. I  can cut hair, but not real easy like it  pops hair.  Good to go for hunting l am sure.  I think I need a stone or jewel stick to get to the next level. That or a lot of stropping.  

I know I can't get the same level of sharp feel as two blades. If I figured right, the angle on the blades is 68 deg. That is a long way from my average knife edges with angles from high teens to mid 20's for angles.
1 Timothy 4:4(NKJV)
For every creature of God is good, and nothing is to be refused if it is received with thanksgiving.

Firefly Long Bow  James 4:14
60" MOAB 54@29 James 1:17

Michigan Longbow Association

Offline xtrema312

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Re: Need a little more help with my Woodsman broadheads
« Reply #21 on: September 30, 2011, 07:46:00 PM »
Quote
Originally posted by Todweelz:
Todd, try Dayquill and Red bull you'll be good [and wired], Todd
Todd, got the Nyquil and Dayquil combo pack yesterday. That has helped a lot. Better now. Goimg to skip the red bull.  Had 500 pic's on my cam that was out 20 days at my opener stand. That took care of the need for the red bull. Can't wait for morning. Good luck and stay safe!
1 Timothy 4:4(NKJV)
For every creature of God is good, and nothing is to be refused if it is received with thanksgiving.

Firefly Long Bow  James 4:14
60" MOAB 54@29 James 1:17

Michigan Longbow Association

Online fisherick

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Re: Need a little more help with my Woodsman broadheads
« Reply #22 on: October 01, 2011, 08:27:00 AM »
I have been using 80 grit sandpaper clipped to a clipboard. I will push the broadhead 5 times rotating sides then less strokes. I then use 120 grit sandpaper rotating as above and follow up with a ceramic stick. Always comes out razor sharp.

Offline Sharpster

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Re: Need a little more help with my Woodsman broadheads
« Reply #23 on: October 01, 2011, 09:12:00 AM »
Quote
Originally posted by spike buck:
Rob, I'm sure it's possible for some to make them shave with just a coarse file. But, like you, I needed a stone to make it happen.
That's very true... Some people can get them to shave using only a file and others need to finish with stones. Stropping will dramatically improve the finished edges in either case though.

Todd, you can get by with some wet/dry automotive sandpaper if you don't have stones. A sheet or two of 320, 600, and 1000 or so followed by a leather or cardboard strop will tune them right up. You can get the wet/dry sandpaper at any auto parts store. Use a piece of glass, metal, or hard plastic that is very flat under the paper and make sure to use enough water to keep the paper pretty wet. Finish by stropping with long backward strokes on a big piece of cardboard and you'll have them shaving in no time.

Ron
“We choose to do these things, not because they are easy, but because they are hard” — JFK

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Offline Bill Carlsen

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Re: Need a little more help with my Woodsman broadheads
« Reply #24 on: October 01, 2011, 09:51:00 AM »
I was taught to sharpen three blades by Roger Rotthhaar back in the 70's when the Snuffers first came on the scene. They can be made to shave. I have used snuffers, woodsman and now have a stash of Razorcaps because I think the steel in them is superior...sharp going in....sharp coming out.

I use DMT stones. The black stone is the coarsest and I work hard on some to get the edges with a burr. Once this happens it is no work at all to get them shaving. I pull them back to front, alternating two blades at a time. I do this  30 times so each blade gets 10 strokes per side. After the black stone I do a series of 30 on the blue stone with lighter pressure. Then I do it on the red stone...even lighter pressure. After each stone I check each blade for sharpness. I have gotten to the point where I can feel it grab my skin. I don't go to the next stone until I feel it is cutting. After the red stone I can shave but then I use a small ceramic stone and lay it on my thigh. I lay the arrow across my other thigh and with just the weight of the head and enough pressure to keep the blades on the rod I do my 30 strokes. When I am done i can shave my face if I want to. The only deviation I make in this system is that if I have a really banged up head from sticking it in the rocky soil I may take it down to my belt sander and very carefully work out the dings  and get that burr. If your fist step fails to get the burr you will never get any blade sharp.
The best things in life....aren't things!

Offline reddogge

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Re: Need a little more help with my Woodsman broadheads
« Reply #25 on: October 01, 2011, 10:07:00 AM »
This has been pretty well covered but I true up each blade by going front to back on a 12" mill bastard file to eliminate the dip. I then go front to back on the file with two blades at a time to recut the angle. Then I use a double sided Norton stone from KME to work the edges smooth always doing the two blades at a time on the stone and finish up with a fine Arkansas stone from KME to really hone the edge. I strop on cardboard backwards.
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Offline xtrema312

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Re: Need a little more help with my Woodsman broadheads
« Reply #26 on: October 01, 2011, 03:57:00 PM »
Quote
Originally posted by xtrema312:
What is the difference between the diamond stick 3 Rivers has, 1000 grit, a jewel stick, a steel, and a ceramic rod?
I will throw in Arkansas stone and anything with hone after it. Any help with comparing these?  Are they all about the same?  I want to get something, but not sure of the differences?

Thanks for all the input.
1 Timothy 4:4(NKJV)
For every creature of God is good, and nothing is to be refused if it is received with thanksgiving.

Firefly Long Bow  James 4:14
60" MOAB 54@29 James 1:17

Michigan Longbow Association

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