radius'd shelf on bows

[Joe Subler]

I see some bowyers make a shelf that is radius'd and some have a flat shaft.  Can anyone tell me if the radius'd shelf produces better flight than a flat shelf?

Thanks,
Joe

[RRock]

I like them better, but that's just me.

[Gordon Jabben]

I alway shoot better with the flat shelf but I don't know why.

[ChuckC]

A radiused shelf, typically accompanied by a radiused arrow plate area on the riser does a couple things, beside looking nicer (to me)than a flat shelf.  

It allows the arrow to make contact with only a very limited area of the shelf, and it also creates a definate launch point typically just above the deepest recess of the hand grip.  It does do something, but, like everything else,  if you like it flat, or if you shoot just fine with a flat surface, then it really doesn't matter.
ChuckC

[Archie]

That radiused outer edge can allow the arrow to clear the shelf instead of bonking it as it launches.  You'll often see marks on bows where feather quills hit on the top outer edge of the shelf.

[V I Archer]

I alwasy place a matcg stick under the shelf and plate.  The idea being minimum arrow contact producing cleaner flight.

[rdoggsilva]

Both my Pearson Hunter and Astro II are a I beam or flat shelf. Have used a elevated rest on them since the day I got them.

[Sixby]

The shelf should be radiused front and back and edge. This eliminates a lot of feather contact for better arrow flight. The shelf pad should be directly over the hand for natural pointing and arrow contact. The sight window should be radiused front and back for same reason.

God bless you all, Steve

[**DONOTDELETE**]

Mine always start out flat, and end up radius after I'm done sanding.....    

It might have something to do with using a chain saw to do my shelf cut out's.... it adds that little bit of Oregon craftsmanship working with native tools.....   :p

[Doc Nock]

Kirk,

You big tease you! You know it would have to be a stone chisel or Maiz to do it "native."    

I've read and believe that if the pivot point spoken of above is right above the deepest inset of the grip, it aids in "forgiveness".

Shot em both ways and always add the toothpic to shelf and side plate, then tune. Seems to aid in a cleaner release and better flight for me.

The bowyers above explain the tech side, mine is just my personal experience

[Night Wing]

I prefer a radius shelf and I'm glad Blacktail recurves have them.

[snag]

Kirk, chainsaw? I'd better try that with tapering arrows!

[Dick in Seattle]

Kirk...  I didn't know you'd gone to a chainsaw.  I thought you were still building your bows to shoot off of existing branch knots....  It's nice to see you young guys learning to use more technical equipment, though.

[Mike Mecredy]

I radius the shelf and the sight window, the radiused shelf minumizes arrow contact, and the radiused sight window gives the arrow a contoured place to "paradox" around on release.

[**DONOTDELETE**]

You guys think I'm kidding?

here ya go... I'm cutting up riser blocks here...

i use a little smaller saw for shaping shelf cut outs. this one has a 28" bar and works good on these big slabs.

 

[Doc Nock]

 

Kirk, you just must like making noise and chips fly!

[Sixby]

Stihl, Husky, Oregon bowyers use only the best of tools with razor sharp chisel teeth. LOl
God bless you all, Steve