Woodpecker hand drill

[rg176bnc]

Wondering how much effort it takes in general to use one as compared to a good tree step.

I realize type of wood will make a diffrence. I use a drill most the time but sometimes I feel Im a little to close to the deer to be using it.  Thanks in advance!

[Matt Quick]

I got some EZY screw in steps that you can literally start them with two fingers. It takes a little more effort to screw them all the way in. So I would say they take a little less effort than the woodpecker drill. Ten bolts and the drill seem like they weigh less than ten EZY steps. There also compact, easier to carry and quiet.  The bolts I use with the drill are less than a dollar a piece. Every few years I just replace my bolts. The EZY steps are like 4.50 or $5.00 a piece can't remember. If I'm prepping trees ahead of time I take a cordless drill with me. That way when I hunt i just pop in the
bolts and that's really easy.  About the only time I use screw in steps is on a pine tree I can't put a climber on just because I don't want to get sap all over my drill.

[NoCams]

Love my woodpecker and also knowing no one else is hunting my stand when I am away. No more tree steps for me.

[stujay]

Would like to see a pic of this drill, don't believe I've seen one before.

[Rick Perry]

is it still being made ? I saw them years ago but havent seen one for several years

[NoCams]

Don't think they are but another one is. Go to Woody Hunting Products .com and look at that one. I am not sure if it is as good as the original Woodpecker or not but may be your only option ?

[fujimo]

would love to see more as well.

[AMB]

http://www.woodyhunting.com/

I like it as well or better than the woodpecker drill.  You can take this one apart and use in a cordless drill.  I use this climbing belt also, great products.  Been drilling trees since the 80's.  I think some folks get in too big of a hurry using them.  There isn't much effort to it.  This setup would be perfect for you to use when closer to the deer.

[CoilSpring]

WP Drill and 17 Grade-8, 3/8"Diam x 6"L bolts with ammo pouch and belt weigh about 4 - 4.5 lbs.  Need to carry only 12 bolts, leave 5 at home. Add a Loc-on, a tree strap, and harness and you're set.  The new small lithium 12v drills are nice, but for those white oak woodlots near pine bedding areas - WP or similar drill (heck, make one)- priceless    

   

[NoCams]

I wear a Summit SOP harness with the pouch on the back that has my tree rope with Prussic that doubles as my lineman's belt and tree rope once I am on stand. I also carry my Woodpecker and 16 bolts there too if it is the first time hunting that spot. Hang on stand on my back. Once I hunt that tree the first time all other hunts I only wear my harness and carry my bolts in the pouch, leave the WP at home and stand already up.

I dip my bolts from the head down to about 2" from the end in Plastidip to keep them quiet and not rattling around. You can get Plastidip at ACE and Northern Tool. It also gives my boots traction on the bolts as well. I have added a hand full of sand to the Plastidip too for even more traction. Thin the Plastidip real good with Xylene from ACE and dip them about 2-3 coats. makes the Plastidip go on smooth and even coat.

[rg176bnc]

Coilspring I was actually thinking about making one.  Sixty bucks seems alittle steep. Unfortuantly Im not much of a machinest.

[JockC]

Has anyone messed with modifying this for a deeper hole and longer bolts?  That depth doesn't mean much in many fire-adapted, thick-barked species in the west.

[NoCams]

JockC,
If you simply used a 3/8" self feeding Dewalt or Irwin bit in a cordless drill and used 8-10" GRADE 8 bolts then you would be cooking with gas. Just make for sure you get GRADE 8 or they WILL BEND, I promise. What ever length works for you make sure and only leave 4-5" of bolt sticking out or again, you are asking for bent bolts. I weigh around 225 going up the tree and tried some 8" bolts with my woodpecker. If I am not careful and push off or bounce on them they bend slightly.

You also have the option of going to 1/2" bit and bolts if you want more insurance against bent bolts or need to leave more bolt hanging out of the tree.

Guess you could make your own , " Deeper ", woodpecker as well if you are a machinist or know one that could help you. The trick would be to modify the collar that goes around the bit and make it work out a few inches deeper for your thick barked trees. Good luck bud !  

[shadman]

I have a woodpecker hand drill along with the bit for an electric drill and a couple of pouches for bolts that I'd be willing to sell if someone is interested. Good system but at my age I'm more into ladder stands.

[fujimo]

sure shadman what are you looking for for it- or if you wanna trade!?!

[CoilSpring]

RG,
I don't know NoCams, but he knows of what he speaks!  He's 100% right on the Grade 8 bolts(don't settle for Gr-5)especially if you go longer.  A WP only allows a max cut depth of 2.25 inches(including bark, so that's 3.75 inches of step remaining.  2.25 inches is only suitable in my opinion for live hardwoods (oak, hickory, beech, ash, iron wood, hackberry, etc) and only because they have relatively thin bark.

I'd want a 4-inch cut-depth minimum in a pine w/a 3/8" diam bolt; might go 3.5" with 7/16" or 1/2" diam bolt, AND NO MORE than 4 inches (like NoCams said) for the step (too much leverage to bend one and tear one out of the tree.  You have to realize this method is NOT the same a SCREW-IN Step. These bolts are NOT forced into the wood, but slid in (in a bigger hole) so it can slip or tear out easier than screw-in steps. Again, NoCams knows of what he speaks - heed his words for your safety.

In the soft-wood (pine) situation, the WP or Woody Drill would not be worth it (to me) going that deep (4 inches) because it's just too much hand-drilling effort. I'd just use the longer screw-in steps (like Matt Quick said) if close to bedding area on a first-time hunt, or a 12V lithium mini-drill if further away or setting up days/weeks in advance.

Just don't buy 10" Gr-8 bolts (for pines) and cut off 2" of the ends (threads) because you bought them too long. If you need shorter bolts for pines, trash the 10" ones and buy 8" with the treads intact.  Or buy 6" with threads for hardwoods. The threads help grab the tree-grain and stay in the drilled holes better - you and your loved ones will appreciate that.    

Don't need to be a machinist to make one.  Use an 8" length of alumimum "C" channel, 1/8 inch drill bit, 1/8 inch roll pin or bolt w/lock nut, 3/8" diam dewalt/Irwin self-feeding bit, 3/4 inch section of alum arrow (for a spacer), a 1/4" bit depth stop, a 2" long,thicker walled alum tubing, a plastic/wooden handle with machine screw/bolt/locknuts/washers, an electric drill, hacksaw, flat-file, and a couple of hours.  

NoCams - Great ideas, man! I have an SOP too, and never thought about using it's pouch that way. How do you use your prussic/tree-rope (specifially) as your lineman's rope? (carabiner? with extra loop(s) tied in?? ) please explain.  I actually have some plasti-dip in the garage - great ideas!

I love this site - great people and resources.

[NoCams]

Coil Spring,
Glad to help after all the help I have been given here bud ! The Gang is awesome ain't it ?

I simply take the big end of my SOP tree rope and hook it into the left hand side of my SOP harness with a carabiner. Go around the tree with the other end that has my prussic on it and adjust to the fit I want. Then just clip another carabiner to the prussic on the right side of the SOP harness. This gives you an adjustable lineman's belt and you can adjust it on the fly as needed. You can lean out as far as needed or stand as straight up as needed simply by sliding the prussic knot.

This is my second year with the Woodpecker, Bolts, Hang on stands, and SOP harness. Awesome system for run and gun hunting deep in the woods where I do not want to pack my climber. No one can hunt my stands either ! Makes the walk in easy knowing your stand is already hung and all ya got to do is slip your bolts in and walk up the tree.