Arrows: Which glue for what?

[Benny Nganabbarru]

Out of curiosity, what kinds of glues / adhesives do you use for attaching points, feathers and nocks?

I have tried hot melt and two-part epoxy for points, Fletchtite for feathers and two-part epoxy for nocks; finally I settled on a really tough super glue that we have in Australia: Loctite 406 for all arrow applications.

I found that hot melt... melted. It gets warm here. Fletchtite and two-part epoxy take time setting.

I understand that hot melt is popular for points because it allows proper broadhead alignment. I get around this by making perfect tapers and by using points and broadheads with really consistent, tight, accurate manufacturing specifications.

Of course, I've got to be quick and careful with this super glue, but the results are good, and the process is fast.

Now, even though I call it a super glue, I haven't tried the cheaper brands that are available here on supermarket shelves. I suspect they're not as good as a more expensive, really hard-core super glue like this Loctite 406.

As for strength, the bond this Loctite 406 makes is rock-solid against hard impacts.

This is attempt number two at this poll, as I wasn't aware of some of the other options out there. Hopefully this time we'll get better results.

[Trad 4 life]

BIG Jim's hot melt is AWESOME stays nice and rubbery awesome on hard impacts trees,walls,boards you name it the arrow breaks before my points

[Benny Nganabbarru]

Thanks for voting, fellows. A lot of ways to skin a cat, eh.

[Grey Taylor]

Ben, thanks for putting together such a good survey. This is just about the first time I've seen all the appropriate answers to the right questions in any survey here.

Guy

[Bud B.]

Agreed. Good poll.


I indicated fletch tape but wanted to add that I use duco at the feather tips.

[Rob DiStefano]

my 2 cents worth of arrow making bonding agent opinions ...

NOCKS - for all nock gluing it is hard to beat fletchtite or duco.  duco should be lots cheaper and every bit as good as that other stuff.  the bond is tight and strong and will allow reasonably easy busted nock removal - this will be much tougher to do if super glue is used.  nocks and hot melt are not a good choice as too much of the melt is required and the thicker bond layer can be tricky as compared to the other two glue types in terms of alignment.

POINTS - having been a devoted user of slow set epoxy for point adhesion, i've since switched to pliable hot melt.  the bond is extremely strong, more than strong enuf to get the job done, yet removal is very easy as the heat source will be less than what's required for epoxy, and the thermal "cure" is in seconds instead of an hour or so.  i find the pliable, more "rubbery" hot melts better than the harder ones in terms of application and use.

FLETCHING - fletching and fletch tape are matches made in archery heaven.  i will never ever use glue again in this department, and haven't done so in nearly a decade - fletch tape is THAT GOOD!

"SUPER GLUE" - is essentially cya (CYAnoacrylate) and it comes in basically three viscosities - water thin, medium, and thick.  there are specific applications for each viscosity and for arrow making the medium or thick flavors work best.  cya requires a *tight* mate between both joining parts when the thin variety is used, and to lesser degrees for the thicker goop (also called "gap filling").  the thicker types have a small degree of "set" time before it cures.  there is also a HUGE difference in brand qualities, with that 'krazy glue' stuff being the most inferior and hobby shop brands are far better quality.  when the cya is fresh, good quality (medical grade), and used properly, it will "smoke" during use!  i use quite a bit of this stuff in my profession and buy it by the dozen box load.  personally, i honestly see no need for this stuff in arrow making - it's a bit tricky to use properly and the resulting bond adhesion strength absolutely requires the mating of both parts be near perfect.  when the mate is really good, those two parts will be impossible to undo without some serious heat application.

[Benny Nganabbarru]

TTT

[Night Wing]

A great poll. Should be interesting to see the results since I use hotmelt for broadheads and fletch-tite for feathers.

I use a press in for nocks since my aluminum arrows comes with factory uni bushings.

[TC in Spfld]

I've used nothing but aluminum shafts since the mid 60's.  Feathers and nocks go on with Fletch-Tite and aluminum adapters and points are afixed with Ferr-L-Tite.  Always have always will as long as the products are available.  I might add that I now fletch on top of vinyl wraps.

[Stone Knife]

Feathers on wraps or Bhoning products use fletch-tite other dips use Duco. Points I like the hotmelt that Big Jim sells that stuff works.

[ozy clint]

epoxy for points, adapters and inserts.
loctite 401 or 406 for feathers.

pine pitch for rocks. LOL

[Rob DiStefano]

where a poll like this can get a tad complicated is for us fellers using a fair share of different arrow building methods.  i build carbons and woodies, the the chief difference is how the nocks are adhered - plastics that are pushed-in for a friction fit (carbon) or glued-on (woodies).  i also do a fair amount of wood primitive nocks (notched with hardwood inserts) and a few with tied-on feathers and no glue at all.

[Benny Nganabbarru]

My strong belief in super glue isn't very popular, although Clint appreciates the magic of Loctite 406!

This might be good for newbies to see the different options available.

Rob, I guess I should've specified to think of the arrows you are most likely to hunt with. It still wouldn't help everyone, 'cause there would be quite a few lads who would readily change back-and-forth between arrow types.

[Rufus]

After 40 yrs. or so of making arrows I still feel the need at times to undo what I have done so that pretty much excludes super glue and epoxy unless they be the only choice for the time and place. I shoot wood and aluminum so I have no input for carbon.
 I use hot melt (Ferriltite or similar) for points since I may want to exchange between types of points on arrows (I guess you could call it changing the arrow behind the point if you had a mind to   ) .
 Duco works wonderful for fletching on woodies using a poly finish but Fletctite is better for a lacquer finish.
 Aluminum shafts don't like Duco no matter how clean, Fletchtite only on them for me.
 If you use wraps, use Fletchtite.
 Like Rob says, fletch tape works everywhere, anywhere.
 I shoot with my hand so close to the shelf though that sometimes no matter how much I shave the front of the feathers down the added tiny bit of height added by the tape will tick my finger "ouch @#^%".
 Enjoy and have a great New Year. , Ralph

[Benny Nganabbarru]

TTT