Tuning Beman MFX Arrows

[wob]

Just bought my first carbon arrows-Beman MFX.
Previously used only wood arrows for longbow.

I want to bare shaft the arrows, and trim them to length.

If I epoxy the HIT insert into the front of the arrow, then it will not come out later for trimming to length.

I would need to trim the nock side of the arrow.

Questions:

1- Nock feels like it is glued in, and I don't want to destroy it to remove.  Does the nock come out without damage.

2- If I bare shaft tune, I have to fletch some arrows to compare flight.  If I fletch arrows and trim them, then I would have to move the fletchings and cap wraps each time.  This is not practical.

Overall, I am thinking about using the low melt Bohning to attach HIT inserts, so I can trim the front of arrow, and move HIT insert back as I experiment.  I would not feel good about epoxying later after I tune, since I feel the inner shaft surface would be contaminated by the Bohning low melt and epoxy may fail later.

Summary:

I want to take 6 arrows and fletch 3, and bare shaft 3.    I want to shoot and compare flight and of each group, and cut small amounts off each arrow until they are hitting in same spot. This is what I interpret as Bare Shaft Tuning.

What is easiest and most practical method to use when bare shafting and trimming carbon arrows?


Thanks in advance for your tips.

[MCS]

If you bare shaft tune slightly week, you should be about wright when you fletch them up. I think. Mike.

[SS Snuffer]

Use low temp hotmelt glue made by Bohneing (blue).
Works great just keep the heat as low as possible.

[jesse cales]

nock should pull out.

[frankwright]

The nocks are really tight, I had to hold the shaft with two hands and get someone else to twist the nock before we could get it to come out.

Use a dab of hot melt and when you want to remove the insert, screw a field point in and heat the point, keeping flame away from the shaft.

[wob]

Ok,

So it sounds like the low temp hotmelt glue from Bohning (blue) is what I will use to attach HIT inserts instead of the epoxy.

For people who have used this product, does it hold as well as the epoxy?  Any problems with the insert coming loose?

Thanks

[Bowwild]

I've been using MFX shafts for two years now -- love em.

I tune differently so I don't have to worry about removing the insert after it is glued in.

1. I select shaft size, point weight, and length using Stu's Calculator.  I also decide if I'll use the full 75 grain, the shortened 50 grain or use an after-market 100 grain brass insert. Stu's Calculator has worked for me as I "game" these components.

2. Then I paper tune at 6', 12', and 21'. I correct nock locator height first. Then I change point weights if necessary to get left and right tears out. With one bow I had to build the sight window out by adding thickness to the window pad.

Before I call it good I shoot broadheads at the distances I plan to shoot. I expect exact same point of impact with my field tips and broadheads. So far, this has worked for me very well.

Of course if you use the bare shaft technique, folks above have provided the answer to moving the insert and in and out.

The nock is tight but not glued.  A nock tool will twist the nock. After a turn or two the nock loosens up enough to remove with fingers or padded grips.

[Burnsie]

I had pretty much the same questions when I got my arrows, but I already had the HIT inserts epoxied in! Everyone said just cut from the knock end (they were hard to get out), but like you said WOB I'd rather not have to refletch them a bunch of times if I have to cut the shaft more then a couple times during the tuning process.

[Pat B.]

I think I'd only do one bare shaft and one fletched shaft..  Save the rest until you're satisfied with your tune...

[neargeezer]

I'd second what Pat B. said as that works well for me.

[ArrowAtomik]

I just use cheap hot melt with minimal heating and shove them in some snow.  I heat up a field tip and pull it with pliers if I want it out.  I've abused them to death and never had an issue with an insert moving or tip failing.  Epoxy has little use to me in archery.

[Guss]

I just use a piece of plasic wrap around the insert to make it fit tight into the shaft. Works great even in Block type targets as long as you use fieldpoints that are the same diameter as your shafts. When your ready to cut just unscrew the fieldpoint a little and you can pull the insert with no problem.
       I use JB Weld to glue inserts when I'm done tuning...it holds better than the hot melt, but can be removed easily by heating the fieldpoints. I wouldn't recommended the epoxy, it holds too good! It's really hard, almost impossible, to remove inserts after it sets.

[Jim Wright]

I have been shooting them for years. The nock will come out then back in. With a spine weak full length shaft you also can put a 1/2" or so patch of "Saran Wrap" on the back of the insert and put them in the shaft with the point screwed in with pliers, it can then be removed by the point again with pliers. Continue trimming a 1/4" or so at a time untill you get a SLIGHTLY weak indication then fletch them which will SLIGHTLY stiffen spine and you're good to go.

[Guss]

Hey Jim, I guess it's true...Great minds do think alike..!! Ha!!

[JRY309]

I use the saran wrap method for tuning all my carbons.I like to use arrow wraps and have them on when tuning so cut from the nock end doesn't work for me.Been tuning with saran wrap for years,it's quick and easy.

[lunchbucket]

Helpful tips and experience you got to love the Trad Gang..........

[Jim Wright]

Guss, in my case I suspect that the "Ha!!" part is certainly true.