Bare Shaft tuning help

[bansheewins]

I have only owned one set of arrows and come to find out that they are over spined for my setup (inexperience on my part). I would like to get my grouping a little closer and therefore are going to try the bare shaft tuning process to start shooting the right arrows out of my bow.

I have been reading about starting out with the full length arrow (field tip only no feathers) and shooting it. It recommended shooting and cutting length off of the arrow as I shoot until it flies and hits the target straight on and not to the left or right. I understand this process but they didn't suggest on how much to cut off at a time while going through this? After you get it hitting the target straight you then move to the nocking point. They recommended starting at 3/4" high then moving down until the arrow enters straight and not up or down. What distance should I be shooting and doing all of this? I am not sure if the arrow needs a specific distance to be able to flex back as they mention. I am not sure that I would get the same affects from shooting at 5 yards and or 15-20 yards?

Thanks for any advice
Larry

[rraming]

Start at like 15 feet and when you get close move back, you can go as far as 20 yards if you want, I max out at 13 yards in my basement so that is what I do. When they start to straighten out take off 1/8" at a time. Make sure your brace height is what you want it at before tuning and make sure your silencers are where they are going to stay.

[gringol]

I'm no expert at this, but I don't think the distance from the target shouldn't matter, but I'd get farther back than 5 yards.  If you are using wood shafts, bareshaft tuning can be expensive.  The arrow will fly into the target at an angle and you'll break at least a few wood shafts.  As far as the nocking point goes, I'd invest in a bow-square.  It should get the vertical component just about perfect before you ever loose an arrow.  

One thing you can try is a heavier point on the arrows you already have.  This will lower the effective spine of the arrow and allow it to bend around the riser.  I'd try that first. After all, heavier arrows delivery more energy to the target anyway...

[Shan]

Larry,
I have had trouble tuning carbons in the past as well. One thing I noticed you had backwards is that you usually try to adjust the nock point (up & down) first, and then work on the left and right.

Not trying to pawn you off at all here but check out this page   OL Adcock Bow Tuning  

Print it out, read it through carefully, it isn't thick stuff, you just don't want to mix it up.

most importantly, believe what you see, a lot of people will have opinions but look at the data and decide for yourself. Ultimately YOU will be the one droppin the string on an animal and none of us will be there.

Good luck!

[Shan]

oh and a clean release is essential otherwise your bareshafts will do who knows what.

[ishoot4thrills]

The link that Sequoia gave you in his post is the same one I use with great success. After you click on the link, then click on "bow tuning" at the top of the page. Great stuff for sure.