Footing experts I need your advise

[rolltidehunter]

This is my long bow set up: BW PLII 53@26
Cut to 27.5 with 225 up front shooting CE Heritage 150"s

They bare shaft perfect: I am considering  adding footing to the end to give my arrows some strength at the end. Where do I start. I have never played around with footing. I have a bunch of aluminum shafts laying around. What size would I use? And what length footing should I use 2 or 3 inches? Also will I need to go down in tip weight if I add it? To like 200 or 175? I guess I need to just add some footing and then bare shaft one in the back yard but I need a good starting place from all you experts. I shouldn't mess with my set up because it shoots so good but I have damaged a few arrows at the end because of the added weight to My tip ( 225 grains) and im kinda in a tinkering mood. Thanks guys

[Reaper TN]

You need to foot your CE 150's with a 2216. It weighs 12 grains per inch.  I use a footing that's an inch long and epoxy it over a lightly sanded end of the shaft. I also clean the inside of the aluminum shaft with some acetone and a q-tip before I epoxy.  I have been using Loctite general purpose epoxy with excellent results.  I think if you use a 2 or 3 inch piece it may possibly mess with the tune of your arrow. I can't tell any difference with the added weight of the 1 inch of footing on my arrows.

[Razorbak]

agree with reaper..1" to 1 1/2" is max I would foot a shaft..keep your point weight..not really that noticibly..you could also add 1/2" fooying in the rear to sligthly stiffen shaft as well but really not needed...another tip is to use some masking tape to hold footing onto shaft as the glue dry overnight..lay flat on table and lightly tape 1/2 on footing and 1/2 carbon ..let set overnight and then shoot the heck out of them next day

[Bill Carlsen]

I don't use more than 1". I used to use just 1/2" and they were fine.  You really just want to keep the ends from splitting .

[JimB]

I settled on 1" but have often suspected that less may work as well.At any rate,the 1" ones have definitely saved arrows from dead center hits on rocks and steel posts.It is absolutely worth doing.While I'm at it,I always add a 1/4" piece on the nock end of the shaft.

[rolltidehunter]

Ok I'll use 1 inch thanks guys

[JimB]

I forgot to add,when I tuned some arrows and added the 1" footing after,I could detect no change in tune.

[Bldtrailer]

I use Iron insert to attach my footings and I use 2 inches (close to 25grns) so I can match points and wieght forward w and without footings if I want to. the Iron insert is heat reversable and after I break an arrow(I hate hitting the nock/ robin hoods)I can reuse the old footing.

I would like to hear from those who also foot the back/nock end. Does it prevent splitting/RHs?

[JimB]

I always foot the nock end with 1/4" and I'm positive it will prevent that end splitting.I started doing that shortly after beginning to use carbons so I never personally had any nock ends split but heard of enough from other people that it just seems like good insurance to me.

I have made some horrible hits on steel and rock with no damage to either end.I shot a rabbit last Fall and hit a rock so hard that it ruined a 200 gr Grizzly broadhead but the arrow survived.The nock did pop out but even that seems to happen less often with nock end footings.
 

[Bldtrailer]

I've footed the nock end of my arrows with a 1/4 inch of 2117(I've always footed the 3555GT frount end w 2 inchs of the same) and I've  gotten an added benefit of  better arrow        my bare shaft with a fletched shaft while tuning/breaking in  a new string at 20yrds.  

[sticbow]

i have never used more than 1 inch..

[Bldtrailer]

Well I tested the rear/nock end footing (a robin     fibers/scrap the 2nd arrow stopped at the rear footing     arrows from rear splitting hits and hard hits that split the nock ends.

[JimB]

That's pretty impressive.Footing carbon arrows is probably the best investment of time that I have spent,tinkering with archery gear.

[ChuckC]

I use 3/4" of 2216 and don't have any issues at all.  I even like the way they act as a full fraw indicator when they touch my finger on the draw.
ChuckC

[NoCams]

Tide..... you might want to file a chamfer on the rear of your footing to help with easing them out of 3D targets. That sharp transition / step where the footing ends will hang up in targets and make arrows harder to pull. JMHO

[NoCams]

Chuck them lightly in your cordless drill then hold the file on a 45 degree angle to get your chamfer......

[Bill Carlsen]

You are going to loose more arrows than you break if you do any amount of stump shooting. Have fun and save $$$ at the same time.

[Gen273]

Does the footing hang over the arrow tip or do you just place the footing flush with the arrow?

Thanks

[Nosight]

For the carbons that I use I cut a 2 inch piece of 2117 and use the 2117 insert. No edge to worry about.

 As far as this goes the arrow now rests solid against the insert. Have been using this for 3 years now and am still shooting some of the first dozen that I tried this on.

 I find a 1/2" on the knock end is more than suffiant to work on that end.

 Just my 2 cents worth.

 Later....Buzz

[Gen273]

Thanks Buzz,

I will give it a try.