Glass Flaws Bug You?

[Zradix]

[Bob Morrison]

We have pretty much quit using clear glass because there is none. Cost us some business but no more complaints about streaks or a bubbles,, now just the price now.

[Canadabowyer]

Big Jim's got it right on.In fact I am going out in my backyard and roll around in my pile right after work today.    Bob

[Flying Dutchman]

We are not moaning at the bowyers. We all know they do a fantastic job. And they really earned rolling around in their piles after work.
We understand that the price of a bow can't be low, because there goes tons of hard work in it and a lot of experience and knowledge.
Therefore we love our bowyers, they are our heroes and we adore them.

We also like the fantastic veneers and woord on our bows.  

The only bad thing here is the quality of the Gordon glass. I think it can be frustrating for the bowyer and the customers.

I try to live with the flaws, enjoy my bows and shoot the heck out of them!

[Bladepeek]

I noticed nobody responded to my post about putting the veneers on the outside, so I'm going to tick everybody off by repeating it. How about some of the bowyers educating me for free? Obama would    

In all seriousness, I do have a bow with two layers of carbon under the veneers. What am I giving up? Durability, speed, smoothness?

Come on guys,I wasn't trying to sidetrack a thread, I think it actually follows rather closely to most of the responses as I don't like to see blemishes under the glass, but hate to give up my beautiful wood.

Ron

[Zradix]

I'm not a bowyer.
But I'm pretty sure the glass helps A LOT to keep the wood from splintering when it's flexed..and shot.

Do the bows you mentioned also have glass over those veneers?

Of course there are lots of all wood bows out there.
But with those the wood is thicker AND made so they follow the growth ring.

I have a strong suspicion that a thin layer of veneer that is cut through the grains like normal would basically disintegrate if laid outside the glass.

Also, a thin veneer would be very easy to damage/crack.

[Flying Dutchman]

times 2 being not a bowyer also

[Bob Morrison]

The veneers on the outside look amazing. I've tried it several times and it worked a few, Really not worth the way they work now. They either split on the edges or had them crack sideways. the only thing at this is good about on the outside it doesn't effect the strength of the limb if they do split. Still working on a way to use them, as I said they look better than any I have ever seen glass over.

[Bladepeek]

Bowbldr, this is the bow that prompted my question and the first I've had any experience with. The Griffon GL indicates "glass-less". You can barely see the veneers from the side - they appear thinner than the carbon layers.

 

 

 

[Bob Morrison]

Most bows we build are short 60" and under. A longer bow may get by with the glass less veneer, Ours won't and I don't plan on myself shooting anything near 66". A recurve is even more prone to split.

[LongStick64]

Big reason why I love my Green Glass Northern Mist Retro Classic Longbow, you can keep those sexy veneers, just give me the Green !!!
Personally I think a bow looks darn classy with Brown Glass or Antique White Glass.

[BWD]

My next bow will have brown glass. Not due to streaks and such, just want another one built that way.

[Bob Morrison]

Bladepeek , Looks like I got baited in again. Good thing I'm friends with both Sids. I'll bet they will not advise on a 58" bow. I does look great on your 66" bow. I can't remember the last 66" bow we built?

[Bladepeek]

Bob, I hadn't even thought about that. That's why I wanted someone who understood bow building to chime in. Makes sense to me now. And no, I don't want to compare speeds    

Ron

[Sant-Ravenhill]

Thanks to the great bowyers that have responded on this thread. I really appreciate your experience, wisdom and candor.

I knew there were some challenges with clear glass, but I had not understood all that it takes to use clear glass successfully.

[7 Lakes]

Last year I started charging the $25 option price for the clear glass.  That covers having to toss a glue up every now and then.  It also keeps me from having to raise my prices on everyone wanting Black, Brown, Green or Gray.

Also one thing I didn't see covered.  Wood isn't perfect, those expensive woods with extra grain, curl & burl are far less than perfect.  It just doesn't absorb glue perfectly.  Many of those "spots" are places where the glue was not absorbed, just as the fibers in the glass do not absorb the resin perfectly.  

Now I'm off to play in my piles of sawdust and fiberglass, wish I knew Big Jim ordered up those piles of cash.  

[7 Lakes]

Those left to right "stress" marks (especially the ones that grow or new ones appear) I believe come from veneers or lams that were sanded very fine to bring out the beauty. The beauty is brought out but the glue doesn't have enought to grip onto and continually lets go.