what would you macth to these setups

[beaver#1]

ok i have three bow that i shoot.
1. 62 r/d longbow b50 string with a good deep shelf.56@28
2. 62" all wood self bow with horn tips and ff strinf with no shelf.54@28
3. a bear cub that is 62" b50 string 44@28.
 i love to shoot wood arrows . and have at least a few arrows for each bow and tuned "ok".
im curious to see if you where going to start with these setups what would yall use in ways of arrow setup.  
Thanks Dustin

[beaver#1]

No one?

[Bjorn]

Dustin, you don't state draw length and there is no specific detail regarding your bows. It would seem you will likely need to buy some shafting anyway.....why not call or email one of our sponsors like Ted at Raptor Archery and he will be happy to steer you in the right direction.

[Fletcher]

What you need is a good set of test arrows!  They will be one of the best shooting investments you will make and will pay for themselves the first time you don't buy the wrong spine arrows.

[beaver#1]

Cool thanks guys. Btw my draw is 29 1/2. Just in case some one wants to chime in

[bowslinger]

Dustin,

There are several questions to ask.
1) Are you looking to buy completed shafts or are you planning on making your own?
2) What wood for shafting?  Port Orford Cedar, Douglas Fir, etc.?
3) Do you have a point weight in mind for each set-up?
4) Are you willing to cut your own shafts, stain and finish them and fletch them?

Surewood Shafts sells test kits for Douglas Fir shafts.  They provide a very good product and I highly recommend them.  They offer test kits in a range of spine weights.  A test kit will typically include 8 arrows, including 2 arrows at each of 4 spine weights.  These test kits do not come with points.  You can buy test kits for various glue on points so you can try different point weights with arrows with different spine weights.

3 Rivers sells test kits with either bare shafts or fletched arrows in cedar.

Because of the range of draw weights for which you want arrows, you may end up ordering more than one test kit.  It may seem pricey, but, once you have the test kits you need, you will always be able to use them to find the properly spined arrow for any bow you own or will buy in the future.

I do not have a tremendous amount of experience with wood arrows, but I have found that the spine you need versus what some else is using can vary significantly for similar draw weight and bow styles.  Do you shoot a thick string or skinny string?  How slick is your release?  How close to centershot is your bow?  How thick is your side plate?

I shoot a Pronghorn longbow, 60", 59# @ 28 inches. My draw length is right about 28 inches, maybe a hair longer.  

Of the four spine weights I have tried,  The best flying and quietest arrow is Douglas Fir, 80 to 85 pounds spine weight, with a 190-grain glue on field point.

If you are familiar with Stu Miller's dynamic spine calculator, you can play around with different types of wood shafts and point weights to get an idea of what range of spine weights you would want to try.

Good luck with your search!

[beaver#1]

I think my point on this topic has been misunderstood. I'm not asking " what should I use". I already have decent setups for these bows. I'm asking what would you use. Mostly to see what kind of different setups people come up with. I know I know there too many things that decide this. But based on the info I gave and just assuming everything else is as basic as it can get. What would you use.