Help! 2317s are too weak!

[Archie]

I draw about 31" with my 64" BW recurve.  At my full draw, it is about 68.5 lbs.  I have always shot aluminums, and know little about carbons or wood.  

When I bare shaft, I get 'weak' consistently with full-length 2317s, with 125 grain field points.  I want to hunt with approximately 750-800 grain arrows, and don't think the 2317s are gonna work.  I'd prefer to shoot 150-200 grain broadheads anyway.  The only way I can see this happening with 2317s for me would be to cut the shafts as short as my draw would allow, stick some weight in the back end to 'stiffen' the shafts even more, and hope I could find a broadhead weight that would work.  The problem is, then I would have a heavy back end... too heavy for good FOC.  I've got a ton of 2317s, and sure wish I could make them work.

Other than 2419s aluminums, what are my options?  Can anyone recommend where I should start with carbons?

[SCATTERSHOT]

Seems like pretty stiff spine, but if they're weak, they're weak. Try building out your sight window with a piecE of leather lace or two and see if that doesn't help.

[Archie]

I think it's the long draw.  There's no doubt they're weak, though.  Unless there's some other 'false weak' factor that I'm not aware of.

Could a really bad release cause a false weak?  Rolling the string off my fingers real hard?  But I don't get weird wear patterns on my tab, so wouldn't think that to be the issue.

[Looper]

The heavyweight AD Hammerheads would probably work for you. I don't have any on hand, but I'd guess they'd weigh right around 800 grains full length with the aluminum insert and a 200 grain point. I shoot the regular Hammerhead out of a 64@31 D/R and they weigh 700 grains with a 200 grain point.

Other options could be the Easton Axis FMJs, the Grizzlystik Safari or the Carbon Express PileDriver Hunters. You could, no doubt get gt7595s to fly well for you, but they'd end up being around 600 grains total weight.

With wood, you'll probably need some 100# shafts and have them footed to give you some extra length for broadhead clearance.

You probably already know this, but if you have a long draw like we do, and want to shoot heavier bows, the arrow choices really are limited.

[Mike Bolin]

I agree with scattershot om building out the plate a bit. Leather bootlace or a wooden matchstick should do the trick. As far as carbons, pick up a GT (gold tip) 75/95 and give it a try if the 2317s don't work after building out the plate. Good luck!

I don't know if they would work, but if you are interested , let me know......I have some 2419's sitting in my closet that I will never use again. Send me a PM if you are interested.

Bisch

[Mongo]

I've tried to maintain a stock of 2419's and some old 2440's.  Just never got around to experimenting with carbons in my heavy bows.  Not that there is anything wrong with them, it's just that I'm too lazy to find an alternative shaft.

[duncan idaho]

Try 2219's with 175 grain point.

[Bladepeek]

I shoot 30.5" 2219's with 190gr broadheads out of my 50# recurve - probably 53# at my 29.5" draw. I would think they would be a bit soft at that draw length and weight.

[SCATTERSHOT]

Soooo.... Howd'ya make out?

[Archie]

I'm going to buy some 2419s.  The carbons that were suggested are a lot more expensive than I realized.  I may experiment with adding weight to 2317s in some unique ways, as well.

[Lee Robinson .]

When bareshafting, get three pieces of masking tape that is about 6 inches long. Place one around the nock end of the arrow like an arrow wrap. Then use the 2nd and 3rd one on top of the first. Check the weight to get it to match a fletch arrow and adjust the tape as needed (not all tape is the same weight/thickness). This will replace the weight of your fletching...and will effectively make the shaft shoot slower and stiffer. It won't make much difference, but when trying to perfectly match the bareshaft, it will be closer to an accurate report.

IMO, a 2219 is going to be too light even with a 125 grain point. I used to shoot them out of a 62# Habu bow with a 29" draw.

Torquing the riser can give a false stiff or weak sign depending upon which way you torque.

[Archie]

Good idea with the tape for feather weight, Lee.  

I've got about 20 2317s that are too short for my draw, and I'm going to try splicing some together.  Two inserts, mouth to mouth, with a threaded rod connecting them, a little forward of the halfway point of the shaft.  This would give me heavier shafts (about +80 grains), conceivably minimize adverse effect on FOC, and perhaps reduce the added weight's effect on weakening the spine.  I might get away with some lighter points, too.  I might even figure how to add some more weight to the middle of the shaft somehow, too.

Me, the inventor.