Cedar Shaft Spine weight ??

[cashhere]

I am trying to go back to using woodies and I am having a little trouble and thought I would check with you guys and get some input. I have a 48# McCullough 59er has the stock FF string on it and I have been bare shafting into some straw bales trying to get an idea of the proper spine weight. I bought some Don Adams tapered cedars 55-60 thinking they may be about right, cut 28" BOP but they appear to be light. I tried 145 and 125 gr tips, tried a 160 and broke shaft on impact LOL, yeah I know bare shafting woodies is not what everyone does..Do any of you find that you need somewhat heavier woodies with newer type FF bows? Thanks

[Orion]

Yep.  I usually overspine by about 15#. Yours should be pretty close, particularly with a 125 grain head.  Maybe go up another 5#.

[Fletcher]

There is more to spine than just draw weight so I can believe you need a higher spine.  I would have estimated at least 58 lb for a 28" arrow and 125 point, and I'm not surprised to hear you need more, esp with the 160's.  I find a set of test arrows is the best way to find what a bow and shooter combo wants and they will take the guess work out of finding the correct spine.  Good test arrows should be marked with their actual spine so you know exactly what you are shooting and not just a 5 lb group.

I'd say you need to go up at least 5 lb, 10 if you want to shoot 160 gr heads.

[cashhere]

Thanks guys, I do not really care to shoot 160, actually prefer 125. I have a spine tester so I am able to get pretty precise. I mainly was hoping to hear what you guys are finding and it seems I just need a heavier shaft as you guys have suggested.

[snag]

You say the bow's weight is 48#'s and the bop on the arrows is 28". But what is your draw length and the bow's marked draw length?

[cashhere]

My draw is 27, bow is 48 @ 28"

[dnovo]

I think you should be at 50-55. I see a lot of recommendations that seem overspined to me for wood arrows. 50# shafts would be 5# over for you at your draw. I never try to bareshaft with wood. Tried it a time or two but wood shafts don't take to it like carbons.

[cashhere]

I have found that a 60-62# shaft cut 28" BOP is shooting very nice. I have bare shafted into straw using a 125 point and also a few fletched arrow both seem to shoot like a dart. The bare shafts are very straight @ about 42'. The shafts I am shooting are both 23/64 and 11/32 tapered down to 5/16 @ the nock end.

[Shortlongbow]

I have a 59er that is 52# at my 27" draw. I have been shooting 28" 70-75# surewoods with 125 gr points. They shoot great. Sounds like the 60-65 range would be about right to me. A lot of variables come into play. Sounds like you have it worked out.

[deaddoc4444]

It would be also interesting to know if your bow is cut to center ,Past center , off the hand etc   that affects   spine also >

[Shedrock]

Originally posted by Orion:
Yep.  I usually overspine by about 15#. Yours should be pretty close, particularly with a 125 grain head.  Maybe go up another 5#.

X2

I never bareshaft tune, I fletch them, tune them by what I see in flight, then paper tune.

[Andy Cooper]

Originally posted by cashhere:
I have found that a 60-62# shaft cut 28" BOP is shooting very nice. I have bare shafted into straw using a 125 point and also a few fletched arrow both seem to shoot like a dart. The bare shafts are very straight @ about 42'. The shafts I am shooting are both 23/64 and 11/32 tapered down to 5/16 @ the nock end.

If this is what shoots for you and your setup then go with it and don't look back!

[SCATTERSHOT]

You can use your current arrows by building out your sideplate with a toothpick or something. That should fix you right up.

[cashhere]

Thanks guys for all the info. The McCullough 59er appears to be cut to center.