Adding weights to glue on broadheads

[AWPForester]

I know this has been asked a thousand times probably, but here goes cause a search didn't pull up much.  I have a modified 60 pound Kmag, cut 3/16ths past center I did myself about 6 months ago.  I was shooting 75-80 pound woodies tuned perfectly, of which I have 3 dozen.  The problem is it takes a while to get the new "sight picture" when going back and forth between it and my other bows as all my other bows are cut to center or center shot with the strike plate.

So I decided to build the Kmag backout to make the sight picture match all my other bows so I can hunt with any number one that fits my fancy.  Well, as you have probably figured out at this point, it has made my woodies stiff.  I want to try and use the 160 snuffers, and don't want to buy more heads, since after these are gone, I plan on buying new spines to tune all the bows with the 160 grain heads that I have.  But I got a lot of stiff shafts at a short draw of 27 1/4 inch so trading isn't real likely.

Is there anyway other than woody weights to get the snuffers 25-30 grains heavier?  I slipped a 38 casing over the 160 field point and it is beautiful to watch again.  I put a 190 grain point on and it is too. So any ideas between 25-80 grains would save me some money.  Any ideas fellas?  God Bless

[WESTBROOK]

Well, what I did was take a blunt or field point that has the deepest taper in it, measure out 25-30g of BB split shot, put it in the point. Get some vice grips to hold onto it with, put it over a propane torch till the lead melts.

 After 20-30 second give the point a rap on a piece of wood and out should fall a nice tapered weight that will slip right up in your BH. 30g is about it, other wise you have to shorten the taper on your shaft too much.

 I took Magnus 1 & Snuffers to 190g this way.

Eric

[Ray_G]

AWP,

I use the bullet point plastic worm weights that are already tapered.  They won't be a perfect taper but just tap them into the point of the taper - they are soft lead.  Clamp the bh into a vise and use a punch to tap them in.  1/8 ounce will give you 54 grains and 1/16 about 27.  You can glue them in but I never can get one out after punching it in.      

Good hunting!

[magnus]

You can get some tiny split shot at a fly fishing shop and use that or some #6 7 or 8 shot from a reloading buddy. Takes up little room and no need to melt it. Make your tapers 3/4" long and you'll have plenty of room. If you melt the lead be mindful of fumes. That's a good idea you though Eric!

[AWPForester]

I can't find lead split shots anywhere.  Anybody got any ideas?  Or the lead worm weights either.  The dang steel ones that are number 7's only weigh 8 grains.  Any lead split shots out there still

[meathead]

I use an internal weight jig to add lead wire to the arrow shaft.

[JimB]

25-30 grains, of course,-too simple.You can tamp lead into the broadhead ferrule(#6shot= 2 grs per pellet)or get some tungsten putty(fly fishing weight,pine wood derby,golf club,etc,1.1 times heavier than lead).tamp that up in your broadhead ferrule.

A tiny bit of wood trimmed off your 5 degree taper will equal 25-30 grs.

[AWPForester]

Thank all you guys for the info.  I just bought some pine wood derby.  I had never heard of such a thing as tungston putty.  I believe that to be the easiest way.  We will see.  God Bless

[capt eddie]

I put an aluminum screwin adapter on the end of the arrow and then I can add as much weight as I need by using differant weight insert.