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Carbon arrows harder to tune on recurves than long bows?

Started by Fidelios, July 20, 2012, 05:24:00 PM

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Fidelios

I had my Samick Spikeman recurve #50 that I could never tune my 500 GT's bare shafting without them kicking downwards as if the knocking point was too high. Then it would not fly without fish tailing when fletched. Shot the same arrow from my #45 AFB Ragim Wolf and, surprise they fly great...That is one of the reasons why I am inclined to get the Ausable rather than the Bear super Grizzly...I do know that my Spikeman is cut on center and that the AFB is not and that this makes the arrow bend more thus compensating for the spine. It's so hard being a nooooob....
My grandfather was a hunter in Africa. He remembered every single animal he harvested. He is my reference.
Bodnik Big Bear #50
Bodnik Kodiak Hunter #50 @28
Samick Spikeman #50 pounds @29.5
Samick Equus #45 pounds @ 28
Ragim Wolf #45 @ 28

Blue Tick

I understand what you mean. Just as soon as I think I've got something figured out or understand something, a wrench gets thrown in.
Sarrels Blue Ridge SR "Autumn Hunter"
Lone Star Skull Works

Killdeer

Every time I learn a Truth, they change it when I am asleep.

Killdeer
Long, long afterward, in an oak I found the arrow, still unbroke;
And the song, from beginning to end, I found again in the heart of a friend.

~Longfellow

TGMM Family Of The Bow

Dogboy900

Sounds to me like they may be a little under spined for your centre cut recurve if they fly ok out of a lighter draw weight non centre cut longbow.
In theory centre cut should be more tolerant of spine and easier to tune. If you have different weight points it's an easy way to adjust spine to check/fine tune arrow flight.
Good luck.

Fidelios

My grandfather was a hunter in Africa. He remembered every single animal he harvested. He is my reference.
Bodnik Big Bear #50
Bodnik Kodiak Hunter #50 @28
Samick Spikeman #50 pounds @29.5
Samick Equus #45 pounds @ 28
Ragim Wolf #45 @ 28

Swinestalker

I shoot both regularly and cannot see a difference. Both tune very easily with carbon arrows. Different bows may like different spines, but I can see no tuning ease advantage to my R/D longbows or recurves. I cannot comment on hill type longbows as my experience with them is too limited.
Having done so much, with so little, for so long, I can now do anything with nothing.

sawtoothscream

500spine?  I have a 26" draw and need 400spine for my 50# recurve.  Bareshafts flying perfect and bullet holes through paper.    my longbow thats 47# likes full length 500 spine shafts with  150gr up front.    My longbow was giving me fits trying to figur eit out but I beat it today.  took awhile of bare shafting and adjusting but I got it.  one more longbow to go and its already annoying me.  my recurves have been a pleasure to turn esp the ILF rig
- Hunterbow 58"  47# @26"
-bear kodiak 60"  45# at 28"

Blue Tick

I've got the same issues working right now. Trying to tune a 48# longbow and the 44# recurve. The DSC calculator says I should be at 500's on the longbow and 400's on the recurve. Based on the limited knowledge I have, I think 500's all the way around. I asked the same questions as you and received some answers of even a 600 spine possibly. Combine that with hearing about folks with pretty much the same specs as I have and their talking about 145+gr points and 50 or 100gr inserts on a 500 spine out of a 45ish # bow and I'm  losing my mind.

I'm determined not to give up and figure this all out. But, like I said earlier as soon as I learn/figure something out, here comes that damn wrench.
Sarrels Blue Ridge SR "Autumn Hunter"
Lone Star Skull Works

JimmyC

NO difference, both are bows that pass an arrow over a rest.   Use a process as described on A&H web page for best results IMO.
"Anything worth doing is worth doing badly."--G.K. Chesterton

Bjorn

Often bow # has less to do with determining spine requirement than riser cut and a host of other variables. Just because I shoot 45# and use a certain arrow shaft does not mean it will work for you and your 45# bow. So forget all the names and numbers and like JimmyC suggests go to the A&H site and follow the tuning guide. All you really need to think about is the result your shaft is indicating to you-is it stiff, or weak? Shaft too long or too short? Point heavy or light?  Let us know how you are doing; but try it first.

Fidelios

QuoteOriginally posted by Bjorn:
Often bow # has less to do with determining spine requirement than riser cut and a host of other variables. Just because I shoot 45# and use a certain arrow shaft does not mean it will work for you and your 45# bow. So forget all the names and numbers and like JimmyC suggests go to the A&H site and follow the tuning guide. All you really need to think about is the result your shaft is indicating to you-is it stiff, or weak? Shaft too long or too short? Point heavy or light?  Let us know how you are doing; but try it first.
Thank you all guys. This thing is getting in the way of me either going for  Bear Ausable long bow or a Bear  super Grizzly. Its a shame carbons are so expensive which really make you strggle with gessing and trying. One thing that really annoys me is that they don't sell points over 125 grains here in the UK. I haven't given up yet because I think that if I order form Germany, they can send me 145, 175. 200 and so on. I would like to have a set of carbons that would shoot from a recurve and a long bow by just changing point grains
My grandfather was a hunter in Africa. He remembered every single animal he harvested. He is my reference.
Bodnik Big Bear #50
Bodnik Kodiak Hunter #50 @28
Samick Spikeman #50 pounds @29.5
Samick Equus #45 pounds @ 28
Ragim Wolf #45 @ 28

Fidelios

is it any wrong if I have my shafts at 32 if I draw 29.5?
My grandfather was a hunter in Africa. He remembered every single animal he harvested. He is my reference.
Bodnik Big Bear #50
Bodnik Kodiak Hunter #50 @28
Samick Spikeman #50 pounds @29.5
Samick Equus #45 pounds @ 28
Ragim Wolf #45 @ 28


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