Beaver Tail Grip ??

[JBridegroom22]

Happy I came across this. I've been thinking about wrapping my rivers edge arroyo. Kinda nervous about the deep grip but I'm going to give it a whirl.

[Tom Anderson]

tenbrook,
I hate to ask for handholding, but can you recommend a specific paint pen?  I've been trying to find a decent one for marking the come-ups on my competition rifle, but all the ones I've found make a wide, gobby mess.

Also, does anyone know how Jim puts such nice even holes in the tail like that?

[BigJim]

I do mine slightly different but everyone has a different technique.
I will add, that while they are relatively easy to do on longbows, recurves can be a different story but still doable.

Instead of the plastic wrap over the beaver for a couple of hours, try an ace bandage and leave it on until dry.
Bigjim

[Tom Anderson]

Jim, how do you get those nice holes in them?

[tenbrook]

Originally posted by Tom Anderson:
Jim, how do you get those nice holes in them?

With one of these I assume.  Before you punch measure and mark your holes with a ruler and paint pen.

  http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/en-usd/home/3240-00.aspx  

I punch the holes right after I trim to size.

I like the ace bandage idea.

[tenbrook]

Originally posted by Tom Anderson:
tenbrook,
I hate to ask for handholding, but can you recommend a specific paint pen?  

http://www.artsupply.com/sls/deco_color_paint_markers.htm

[Rick Butler]

This works well too and really keeps your holes in line.
 http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/en-usd/home/department/Tools/3052-00.aspx

[BigJim]

I didn't put the holes in that tail. Infact, I don't put them in until I have it glued on the bow. I also mark and cut tail while in place. Must be very careful as to not cut into the bow finish.

I use a white grease marker when it is cooler or while in A/C. Outside I use a blue pen. They both work fine and rub off easily. It is getting harder to see the lines as I get older.

I use a "Nipper" to cut my holes and they aren't holes, they are slots. Not real visible when grip is done. You must be careful as to not undercut the mating edges as it can be very tough to pull them any distance back together and also easy to tear the tail.

Beaver tails are incredibly wear resistant, but oddly easy to tear when not glued in place.

good luck, bigjim

[Biathlonman]

Just finished up one on my bow bolt Toelke Chinook.  It really was as easy as everyone said.  Hardest part was finding the barge cement!  I used an ace bandage per BigJim's recommendation and everything went perfectly.  Only thing that I will add that I didn't see anyone mention is that you will need some kind of dye or maybe a sharpie to color the cut edges.  I ordered a black tale and where you cut it the edges are white.  I had some Kiwi black leather die here so it wasn't a big deal, also tried a sharpie and it seemed to work fine.  I ran all over town looking for leather lacing but ended up just using some upholstery thread I had on hand as I was having a heck of a time getting the lace through and thought I was going to tear out a hole.  Just ran a swipe of the die down the front to color the stray colored thread after I was done.  Did it just like the instructions here, just stopped and tied off my thread on both sides of the bolt bold slot.  After I got done then I just ran a razorblade around the slot.  Not perfect, but I really like it.

 
 
 

[Steve Clandinin]

Tenbrook,thanks ever so much for the advise ,just ready to do one.Who says were to old to learn!

[Butchie]

Here's mine from Big Jim following his instructions.

 
 

[Gator1]

You guys are masters......

I'm getting courageous...      

[bowless]

Nice work here guys.
I'm going to try it, just gotta get me a beaver tail.

[Roadkill]

I had two in the back yard getting ready to tan.  This morning my son's dog came in with a half in his mouth.  He ate the other one too
My son is in the Rubies svouting for his season so the dog stays with us.  Anyone wanna make a dog grip?

Good instruction, hope to find another tail in my taxidermy freezer tomorrow

OK I admit I'm challenged in this area, but I can't get the stuff to stretch at all. I am trying to do the handle on my Morrison Shawnee and it has a number of contours. I bought a veg-tanned tail from Sheridan Leather, dyed it with Fiebing's Black oil dye, let that dry for a couple of days, then I soaked the tail for a long time and it never did develop any "give" to shape it on the handle. Also, the dye came off all over my hands! Help!

[Razorbak]

Wrap bow riser in Saran Wrap. The leather needs to be thinned. Like 2 to 3 oz max. Soak in warm water for a little bit until it becomes pliable the wring all excess water out wrap around handle and get a grip on it then mold contours with fingers then when your satisfied clamp the open end of leather on back of bow with some clips then let dry when dry then make some reference marks with pencil and line up and cut leather down middle. Then cut 1/16" off each side you cut then mark and make holes then lightly stain with dye and let DRY then seal the leather with some dressing then stitch and your good. And if you want added protection get some Elmer's glue the white kind and mix 2 parts of water to glue and shake real good and lightly stain the leather then as it drys. Buff with clean Cotten rag and your all set. This is one way to do it. Also you can wrap masking tape around handle and contours then cut in line and peel off and transfer carefully to leather and cut and stitch. No water molded needed

Iattempted skiving the tail leather to make it thinner without a lot of success-- any thoughts on that?

[Razorbak]

go to Tandy..get a skiver that they sell..its only a few bucks..get a flat piece of glass and place leather on glass and skive or use razor in angle or sand on belt sander