Broadheads flying poorly!

[Cavalry Scout]

I am shooting 35/55 GT @ 29in, with 100gr brass inserts, 125 up front. (New shooter) I group and shoot fairly well with field points. I had 125 woodmans that were hitting well.  (they are packed up in storage)  I now have some 125gr, 3 blade Snuffers and they are flying all over the place???  Normally low and left.  Advice??

[stick hunter]

Hi did you bare shaft your setup? I found that if your bareshaft flies well then usually any broadhead will fly well also, just my experience. GOOD LUCK

[MonRiver]

Do you bareshaft with field points or broadheads?

[Bldtrailer]

Are you right handed?  If so you may be droping your bow arm at release (that will give a low left). If not  lower your nocking point (a littte at a time, this will bring you broad head groups higher)when arrows are hitting the same level, try adjusting (twisting up) your brace hight(this will make your arrows act weaker, grouping more right) MAKE ONLY ONE SMALL CHANGE AT A TIME>>>--> !  I tune for field points (bare  shafting) then retune my with broad heads to hit together.Bare shafting will get you very close (field pnts only!)but you also need to tune with  broad heads  (on fletched arrows(NEVER BARE SHAFT BROAD HEADS)to get arrows hitting the same  groups fld pnts and broad heads.
 http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=539460   (I know this is compounds but it also applys to recurves)
 http://www.bowmaker.net/index2.htm
(this may be the best bow tuning methods)

 http://www.centenaryarchers.gil.com.au/basic1.htm
This ones good to

[stick hunter]

NEVER bare shaft with broadheads! I always bareshaft with my hunting setup. I setup my bow up with my quiver loaded with arrows silencers,etc and exactly how im going to be shooting it, keep in mind that anything you do or change will effect the way the bare shaft flies. If you bareshaft with the same weight field point and get good flight then the same weight broadhead should work.

 I bareshaft at 20-25 yards into a hard foam target and go from there. If you go to morrisonarchery.com there is a pretty good forum on bareshafting and a how to. I hope I helped! GOOD LUCK. Im not a professional in any way but this information is what always worked for me. If you get lucky the bareshaft gurus TIM GOLDER, or AS. could help also, they have helped me.

[Orion]

First, check to make sure the snuffers are 125 grains.  They do come heavier.  Does the 125 grains up front include the adaptor?  Second, make sure you have them on straight.  Don't know what draw weight you're shooting, but you're shooting a fairly low spine arrow.  May have too much weight up front. Did you add a bow quiver in preparation for hunting?  It can throw things off.  Of course, a minor change in form (dropping your bow arm) could be causing it as well. Just trying to think of things that could cause the change.  Good luck.

[jonsimoneau]

If your broadheads are not flying well, it is likely that your arrows were not as tuned as well as you thought with field points.  Broadheads will magnify the effects of an arrow that is not quite tuned in.

[BigJim]

Big broadheads require a little more spine. Arrows that fly well with feathers and field tips aren't necessarily tuned well. Feathers hide a lot of issues.

Bow type and weight would help out a bunch, but 225 up front is certainly not too heavy for a 3555...depending on bow weight.

bigjim

[dragonheart]

Originally posted by BigJim:
Big broadheads require a little more spine. Arrows that fly well with feathers and field tips aren't necessarily tuned well. Feathers hide a lot of issues.

Bow type and weight would help out a bunch, but 225 up front is certainly not too heavy for a 3555...depending on bow weight.

bigjim

I have found the same.  I like a 3 to 1, they just do not give me any tuning headaches.  Woodsman, tuffhead, grizzly, hunter head all shoot well.

[Cavalry Scout]

Thanks for all the response!  I am shooting a Samick Sage, 50# at 28in.  I have had noticed I drop my bow arm a little at times.  I did not bare shaft tune, tried but, did'nt have a lot to adjust with.  I tried 29 and s8 in shafts, with and without the 100 grain insert. I get the same results with my my 45# Martin Hunter.  The Woodsmans I was shooting (I have one, others in storage) seems to group better??  I will weigh the others ASAP.

[Tim Finley]

I too was having a problem shooting low and right with bad flight on arrows with ww that had great flight before . 35-55 being the worst. I dont know what it was but now they have straightened out and are hitting the center with great flight .(could'nt have been me)!! My friend Ron had the best theroy...not enough Crown Royal! I like to check arrow flight in very low light conditions with a lighted nock you can really see what and arrow is doing. I also think 35-55- are not a very stiff arrow and when you put all that weight up front you weeken then even more I put a 3000 vapor ,a 400 beman and a 35-55-gold tip on a spine tester and the gold tip was lighter, not as stiff by a good margin....Tim

[shadman]

Tim, I believe the 35-55's are 500 spine while the other's that you tested are 400's. They should be considerably stiffer.

[JamesKerr]

You need to do some bare shaft tuning to see if your arrows are in tune with your bow or not. I would use O.L. Adcock's method of tuning as described here  http://bowmaker.net/tuning.htm  . If you don't bare shaft tune you will almost always have headaches when shooting broadheads.