Need help with selfbow without shelf.

[beaver#1]

I have a 54#@28 all Osage bow with no shelf.  Fast flight string. I have been trying to tune some new arrows to it with no luck. Sense the arrow has to go around the handle I got some 45-50 spine cedar arrows from 3rivers. Full length. And I put some 190 gr points on. I figure this should work pretty good. But not at all. Now I don't know a whole lot about shooting bows with no shelf. So what do you think. Do I aim the arrow or aim the bow. Just need some help. Getting frustrated with it.

[Bob B.]

beaver#1,

How long is your draw and how long are your arrows?   Your arrows could be weak spined with those points.  What are you seeing relative to arrow flight?  Are you saying the flight is inconsistant and the arrows are all over, or are they always low and left, high and right, etc?  More info will help nail down your problem.

As to "aiming" ... perhaps you should start very close to the target, like 10 yards or so.  As you draw, give a good hard focus on your target, hit anchor and release.  As your "aim" improves, step back 5 yards and get good from there.  Shooting instinctive has little to do with aiming and a lot to do with a good hard focus.

Anyway, I am no expert.  You will get info form others, shooters much more skilled than myself.

Good luck to you.

Bob.

[Pat B]

Ten pounds under draw weight is a good spine weight starting point for selfbows. Commercial arrow spine is calculated for a 28" arrow with a 125gr point attached. For each inch over 28" subtract 5# and for each inch under 28" add 5#. ie. 50# spined arrow cut to 30" will have an effective spine weight of 40#. Tip wieght over 125 gr lessons the effective spine also but I don't remember those values.
  Keeping arrows longer will help it get around the bow better. I shoot 29" to 30" arrows for my 26" draw.

[magnus]

On my no shelf selfbow I ended up having to use tapered arrows. No matter what I kept getting contact with the bow right before the fletching. Once I tapered some I bare shafted the arrows till I had good flight then fletch'd them and now all is great. I started 10# lighter on spine than the bow then added spine for point weight and then started bare shafting cutting a 1/4" off at a time till I dialed them in. It was frustrating at times but once I got there it was all worth it! Thanks for all the help Stringstretcher couldn't have done it with out your help!!!  

[beaver#1]

I draw 29 1/2. Arrows are full length. Arrows shoot high and way left. Thanks for yalls input.

[Pat B]

The high part is probably your nock setting. Raise it a bit and try again. Left for a right hand shooter is underspined.

[beaver#1]

Thanks pat

[LEWIS VADEN]

I thought left for a right hand shooter is overspined.  (arrow not bending around the riser.)

[SELFBOW19953]

190 gr point sounds pretty heavy for your set up.  Full length (32"???) 45-50# spine shafts, drawn to 29 1/2", with 125 gr points sound about right for your bow. You might try lighter point weights to see if arrow flight improves.  Or, you might try sacrificing one arrow and trim the length about 1/4" at a time down to 30 to 30 1/2".  If lighter points improve flight, your arrows are too long for 190 gr's.  Changing points is cheaper, if you have them.

[beaver#1]

Thanks selfbow I will try that.

[joekeith]

Originally posted by LEWIS VADEN:
I thought left for a right hand shooter is overspined.  (arrow not bending around the riser.)

You're right, hittin' left means stiff.  

[beaver#1]

Hmm. Looks like I have two different ways to choose from. But which one is right lol.

[Rick James]

I agree with joekieth, for a righty, hitting left is a stiff arrow--the arrow is already pointing off to the left when nocked and can't bend enough to get around the riser so it just keeps heading where it was pointed--you need a weaker shaft to get it to bend  around the riser and back to where you feel like the bow arm is pointing it...
I also agree with Selfbow, I would try some lighter points and get something to shooting better and go from there--with 190's those shafts should be weak in stead of stiff--especially if you are really drawing 29.5"--I just can't see that shaft being stiff...

[beaver#1]

Thanks rickjames. After thinking on Quiter a bit. I believe it is not so much of a spine issue as I thought. I believe that alot of this has to do with my form. Which is not great. So I'm going to play around with that and some other weight tips also. Thanks guys you all your help