Bingham bow cost (getting started)

[T Folts]

Assuming I have all the tools need to make a bow,
can anyone tell me how much it would cost to make a one piece longbow from bingham.
Cost of materials for bow
Plans, forms heat source ect..
Anyone keep track of this.
Maybe broke down to set up cost and actual bow cost if I made more than one, I have 4 sons and we just adopted a 14 year old daughter so who knows how many I will be making in the future.

Thanks
Terry

[elk ninja]

I use a clamp style form.... I think cheaper and simpler than the hose style, and more repeatable than a string-wedge or tube/ rubber band style.  My clamps were about $50 (Harbor Frieght to the rescue), the plywood for the form, anout $20.  I use about 1/2 pint of smooth on per bow, so that's about $7.50.  Depends on the wood you choose, but for me per bow, it runs about $150 bucks.  You can definately go less... so all together, you can have your first bow for about $200 or less.  Add in some money for string material and rest plates and you are off and running.  Kids bows would be 1/2 the price because they are essentially cut in half.

Mike

 
 

[Chris EdS]

Terry,

I built a laminated long bow with some components from Bingham.  I used instructions  from an article in Trad Bow Magzine from about two years ago. I went to my local cabinet maker/speciality woods shop and bought a "scrap chunk of Mahogany and Teak, and a six foot piece of Black Walnut.  He cut it to dimensions and planed it for me, about $30 total and I have enough wood for two more bows.  I bought fiberglass, epoxy and leather for the grip from Bingham, about $25-30 with shipping and all.  I used a straight 2x4 for my form.  I made my clamps with flat stock and all thread, probably, another $20-30.  My heat box, I made out of scrap pressboard, and used an old strip light fixture with 4 or 5 200 watt light bulbs as my heat source.  I lined it with foil to reflect the heat back in and prevent a fire.  I used a dial meat thermometer to check the temp.  A little trial and error to get the right number of bulbs and combination of wattage, but it worked.  My boss sent me the horns from a baby whitetail he had killed years back, I hacksawed and sanded that down for my nock tips, adds a nice touch! I used tung oil as a finish, about $6-7 for a bottle.  You need a wood rasp or two, a small round file for the nock (I used a pico sized chainsaw file), power sanders are nice, but a block of wood and sand paper will work too, I used a table saw to cut the profile of the limbs, a jig saw to cut the riser and Gorilla glue for the wood laminations.  I probably have a $100-125 in everything and I have enought left over to make two additional bows.  So the first one is relatively expensive, the next two are paid for already, I just need some more fiberglass from Bingham.  

I also followed the directions from another Trad Bow article about making bow strings.  I bought a spool of plain old brown (I think it is 8125) string and made my own.  

I turned out to be about a 58# draw at 32" (I've got longarms), 70" longbow.  I took it to Idaho for a late season mule deer hunt last fall, we got soaked for two days and snowed on for the third day, but the bow held up well.

I leave this Thursday for opening of archery deer and bear in the Sierra Nevadas with my homemade bow in hand, can't wait!  

Also I built a tiller stick so I could check my poundage and symmetry of the bow.  This took another 2x4, a couple of pulleys, a length rope and some eyebolts, a scale and some screws.  I had all of this stuff around.  So I didn't have to lay out any cash.

Have fun and patience, it takes a little thinking for the first timer.  

Let me know if you have any questions, I'll try and answer ASAP.

Happy building,

Chris

[Crooked Stic]

Chris you used Gorilla glue for what? I hope not in the place of smooth-on.
My total cost for form-heat box and bow materials was between $2-300. I would go with the hose method. Just easier.

[OconeeDan]

My first take down bow cost about 400 to make.  Each one after that, 150 or less.
Take downs require a 60 dollar jig (one time cost) and 10 bucks of hardware that one piece bows don't need.
Initial cost is the plans/dvd, jig, hot box parts, mold parts, firehose pressure thingy, and some tools you may need.
Dan

[Tilbilly]

Just be forwarned that Bingham's severely needs to update their prints, templates and instructions. For example is the one-piece recurve. The template for the riser isn't symmetrical. So you have to lay out one end, spin it around and use the first end to lay out the second end. Same problem for the limb tips. Why? Because the copy you get is a copy of a copy of a copy of a ........
So you have to use your head when things don't add up, as well as ask questions on the internet. Double check everything before glueup  before proceeding to destroy 2 or 3 perfectly good bows before getting your first good one. All this factors in cost-wise. My .02

[Chris EdS]

Crooked Stic wrote "Chris you used Gorilla glue for what?"  I used it to glue the riser woods together.  I used smooth-on to epoxy the glass and wood together for the limbs and the riser to the limb.  Did I err?   :confused:  

Thanks,

Chris

[Crooked Stic]

I think smooth-on would be a much better choice even for the riser woods. The only other glue I use in bow making is thick CA for tip overlays and limb butt overlays etc. I use the thin CA as sealer under epoxy finish.

[T Folts]

Thanks for the reply guy's I think this may be the winter project this year. I have built several self bow but wanted to do something different..... I have allways wanted a R/D longbow I think they are sweet looking.

Terry

[Rod Ham]

I would second Crooked Stic on the use of Gorilla glue.  After well over 50 laminated risers the only one I ever had let go was with Gorilla Glue.  I called the manufacturer and visted with them.  They do not recommend it for use in anything that will flex.  You would be amazed at how much flex is in a "stiff" handled boe even with a 55# @ 28" draw. I now use smoothon for the risers as well.  And I find it is actually a bit cheaper to use as well.

[**DONOTDELETE**]

I figured it cost me about $2000 to build my first bow. That might have something to do with the band saw and auto feed drum sander i purchased though...

What i did actually was buy every plan that bingham projects had available, and started reading up on the subject before i ordered anything. when i finally decided to go for it i ordered enough glass and epoxy to build 6 bows, and a lamination kit with the tapers ground. I also purchased the fire hose and end plugs from Binghams to build an air form. THIS i would highly recommend for bow building. the consistency and even pressure applied while laminating a bow is critical, and this system works excellent....I picked the one piece pronounced R/D long bow to start on....i had a ball with it too!....by the time i was complete i had a nice tiller tree built, a spray booth set up for applying finish professionally, and a whole lot of respect for laminated bowyers....I'm going elk hunting with my first trad bow in 12 days now. i sincerely hope you enjoy the whole process as much as i did....

PS: You have a good network of great guys here to fall back on for help. The Trad Gangers here helped me out on a lot of things i ran into....

the more you build the easier it gets, but every one is a new learning experience too.....Have fun!

[dick sable]

Terry,
Congratulations to both your family and your adopted daughter! Get her shootin'!
Regards, Dick

[T Folts]

Thanks Dick,
I need to find her a bow soon. The lightest one I have is 30# and too heavy for her.

Terry