Easton aluminium arrow numbers: what's the whole story?

[JImmyDee]

I've got dozens of Easton aluminium shafts.  Here are some 2219s
 
and these are some XX75 Camo Hunters
 
and these are some 2419 XX75 Camo Hunters:
 

The top three -- TruFlite, Eagle, and Gamegetter -- are, respectively, okay, miserably weak, and sort of weak.  The XX75 Camo Hunters are the best of the bunch.

In different shafts, I've also got some Gamegetter IIs; they seem to do okay in 50# bows but bend and crumple when shot with anything heavier.

I've recently bought more 2219 and 2419 shafts and they've got those UniBushings installed.  I don't know if it's just what I'm used to, but I like the swaged ends better.

My questions are:
(1) What are all those "other" (not XX75 Camo Hunter) shafts for?
(2) What's the difference between an Eagle, Gamegetter, Gamegetter II, and XX75 Camo Hunters?
(3) What are all those "Lite" shafts about?
(4) Are there any shafts comparable to XX75 Camo Hunters but called something else?
(5) What do those dots under the arrow numbers mean?  (I feel like I'm looking at Case knives or Zippo lighters!)
(6) Are the UniBushings a good deal or not?

TIA

[**DONOTDELETE**]

OK....there are lots of questions here but I'll try to cover them as best i can.....The top of the line easton aluminum shaft is an XX78 super slams in my opinion. they are the straightest and have the stiffest And highest grade aluminum of the bunch there. Then you drop to an XX75 these are slightly weaker shafts but pretty darn straight and the tolerances on weight are pretty good too....Then you drop down to your economy grade arrows such as game getter's and G G II's....these arrows have a lot less straightness and very in weight due to the poorer quality aluminum used i guess...they bend easier and are more inconsistent to build and shoot.

If you are serious about getting good tolerances and good flying arrows that are fairly tough. stay with the XX75's or go to XX78's.

The unibushings  are great for nock rotation, and also add a bit of weight to the tail of your shaft. i like them a lot myself....

The number 22 is the diameter of the shaft...and the 19 is the wall thickness of the aluminum....I've used 2213 XX78 shafts for many years and harvested many elk with them too. even though everyone told me they were to flimsy and too light a shaft, i had those things fling like darts.....once that arrow goes though both sides of your elk, Who cares whether it's bent a little? i wouldn't use them for stump shooting though....your 2219's would be better stumpers...

i hope this has been helpful....as far as the "Lite" markings, and the dots.....i haven't a clue bro......Kirk

[Bowspirit]

Lite has to do with the wall thickness. Or, at least it used to. Don't really know why you'd be seeing Lite written on a 2219. Used to be, sizes 20, 19, 18, and 17 were considered standard thicknesses. 16 and 15 were Lites, 14 and 13 were SuperLites, and 12 and 11 were UltraLites. At least, that's how I remember it...

[Basic Instinct]

OK, I will chime in some.

XX78 shafts  .oo15 straightness 100,000 psi 7178-t9 alloy material

xx75  shafts  .002 straightness  96,000psi 7075-t9 alloy material


XX75 Gamegetters  .003 """      96,000psi   7075 -t9 alloy as well.


first 2 number Diameter of shaft in 64th like a 2315 in 23/64 diameter

2nd two like others have said as well  Wall thickness