Heavy Set up Spine Help

[Tatonka17]

I need some help getting me in the ballbark on spine for Schafer Silvertip  Recurve, 63# @ 29"  I have a 30" draw.  Because of my draw length, my arrows will be 31.5-32"  I want to stay at 10gpp and have a pretty heavy FOC.  Stu's calculator basically put me into a .200 spine Gold Tip kinetic with a 250 grain point, which is way to stiff.  I had some GT 7595's kicking around with 100 grain inserts and I threw the 250 grain points on there, and they seem to shoot pretty well.  Stu's calculator says I'm about 30#'s too light with that setup, which has me concerned.  Any thoughts or recommendations on a good carbon arrow set up before I go blow a bunch more money on arrows?

Thanks in advance!

[Forrest Halley]

I say go with your gut. The thing I would recommend most is to bare shaft test them also and go with whatever weight head flies best bare shafted. I didn't do that and ended up with weak arrows when I got to full draw. If you're struggling right now spine them stiffer. I ended up with weak arrows by the time I was comfy with the bow. I assume you have test kits? I think they're great.  3 rivers has a good heavy and regular one.

[onewhohasfun]

If the 75/95's show a little weak don't be afraid to build out your side plate a little bit. I find it an easy way to do initial tuning.
Love the GT's. Foot both ends and you got one tough arrow.

[Tatonka17]

Thanks guys. I've been bare shafting the GT 7595s and they seem to tune just about right. Time for some more arrows.

[Fanto]

I shoot GT7595s from a 60# martin hunter built out almost to centre, and a Stotler gamegetter (r/d carbon/'boo flatbow) 70# which is cut 1/4 before centre. arrow length is 29.5, 325gr up front total.

I agree with onewhohasfun, strikeplate build-out makes a lot of difference.

Another option is to get yourself a GT weight (50gr) and drill out the back with about a 3/16 drill. Get yourself a 1/4" hardwood dowel about 7in long, and taper the end. glue it into the weight. Now use a very thin file (like a swiss army knife one) to cut a slot in the back end of the dowel .

You have made yourself a removeable, adjustable internal footing which gives you 85gr of weight and a considerable spine stiffening. This is how Dr. Ashby builds arrows for buffalo, as it prevents breakage on heavy bone contact.

[Fanto]

I shoot GT7595s from a 60# martin hunter built out almost to centre, and a Stotler gamegetter (r/d carbon/'boo flatbow) 70# which is cut 1/4 before centre. arrow length is 29.5, 325gr up front total.

I agree with onewhohasfun, strikeplate build-out makes a lot of difference.

Another option is to get yourself a GT weight (50gr) and drill out the back with about a 3/16 drill. Get yourself a 1/4" hardwood dowel about 7in long, and taper the end. glue it into the weight. Now use a very thin file (like a swiss army knife one) to cut a slot in the back end of the dowel .

You have made yourself a removeable, adjustable internal footing which gives you 85gr of weight and a considerable spine stiffening. This is how Dr. Ashby builds arrows for buffalo, as it prevents breakage on heavy bone contact.

[Tatonka17]

Thanks Fanto. That sounds like I'm going to have to give it a try. I happen to have some of those components kicking around. Down to the shop.