Arrow Tuning Advice?

[Wagstaff]

My son and I are in the process of recurve tuning, and shaft selection.. We have a arrows here that calculate to the correct range of dynamic spine, but appear to have a problem. Before we proceed with any modifications, I'm looking for an evaluation from some folks with experience.

Notice the arrows impact slightly lower than aiming point, yet centered. Note both the fletched and bare shaft arrows orient nock right. But the bare shaft is actually to the left (stiff) side of the fletched shaft. I'm somewhat confused by the contradiction.

Details..

Bow: Black Widow PTFX 50lbs@28" 28.75" DL
Shelf Rest, approx .0625 RIGHT of center.. (Window cut .1875 right, rest .125 thick)
Arrow: CE Maxima Hunter 350, 29" Weight 440 grains
Point 145gr + Insert 12gr = 157 grains.
Shot from 8 yards

Suggestions on what to try next with this?
We have a wide range of point weights to try, we started with 200 grain points but with heavier points the bare shaft impacted well to the right (weaker) of the fletched shaft group.. This lighter point brought the bare shaft impact back to center, but the nock is consistently impacting right.    

[xtrema312]

I would say you are stiff.  I don't go by arrow angle in a target bare shafting. I have found those targets to show arrow angle better than most, but you can’t depend on it.  I have had a half dozen BW’s around that weight with about the same draw length and never needed a 340 spine arrow. I usually used a 400 spine 30"+ with quite a bit of weight on the front.

[jsparky93]

I agree with the above post. "Too stiff". If you have a 225 or 250 grain point I would try them. The knock left with the 200 grain could be due to contact with the riser or a low nocking point giving a false reading.

[Bjorn]

While I agree with the above it is not very conclusive being only 8 yds from the target. Can you get back to 20-25 yds? At 8 yds your arrow is still swinging back and forth due to paradox and recovery.
Even at 15 yards the arrow is not indicating issues like spine as accurately as it will at 25 yds. If space is a problem paper tuning may be better. Also peeking to see your arrows in flight creates problems on it's own which can almost defeat the purpose of bareshafting.

[moebow]

For What is is worth.  MOST folks find that a bare shaft is VERY sensitive to your release (form).  The slightest error in release will REALLY show up in how the bare shaft flies.  As mentioned, shoot at a longer distance than 8 yards and look for relative impacts of the fletched and bare shafts.  Don't worry so much about shaft angle in the target.

I'd go so far as to suggest that MOST "arrow spine problems" are NOT that at all but form and release problems.

Arne

[KSdan]

Path- A nock right (stiff) will hit left on the target.  A nock left (weak) will hit right.  I usually shoot 15 or so yds and watch for nock right or left (sometimes have someone look over my shoulder). You can use different point wts., but I also found that taking off 1/4" at a time off the shaft really hones it in.  It amazes me how much a 1/4" can change it. Also realize that a slightly weak bareshaft will stiffen slightly when fletched.  

My 2C

[Rick Richard]

Moebow sad it best. I would definitely shoot it through paper first to achieve that perfect bullet hole and then take it out and shoot the longer distances to fine tune.