Draw length and arrow length

[S.C. Hunter]

I have recently found that I actually have a 29.5" draw after shooting with a 28" draw for years. I made a few changes in my form and posture and here I am at 29.5" of draw length.

I was using a 29.5" arrow with my 28" draw. I actually still get good flight with that arrow. Problem is if I put a broadhead on it is a very good chance I will end up getting the bad end of that deal. How much length can I add to get good clearance and not have to do a lot of adjustment to my arrows or the bow? I know I am adding weight to the bow by increasing my draw length. I am shooting a 56#@28" and again I am pulling this to 29.5" so I am guessing I am at about 60#. My carbons will probably be easier to adjust but for wood I am not sure how much I need to move up if I increase the arrow length. My current wood arrows are POC 29.5" BOP 125 Grain head 3-5" shield cut feathers. I am thinking about trying Fir. Now for my carbons I use 5575 GT trad also 29.5" BOP 50gr inserts 145gr heads and 3-5" shield cut feathers. Both arrows are around 540gr total weight. Suggestions please.

[ChuckC]

If two bladed, mount them horizontally and you will clear your fingers (unless you hold your fingers out front).

An inch beyond your draw should clear everything.

ChuckC

[RecurveRookie]

I'm not an expert, but for the carbons, can you go to the arrow spine chart and start over with your new draw weight and length?  You're gonna need longer arrows anyway.  Some people shoot a shaft 1/2 or 1 inch longer than necessary just for tuning.  Byron Ferguson adjusts shaft length so the back of broadhead touches his finger at full draw, I read in his book.

[Bjorn]

I'd get a test pack from Shurewood. Add 1-1.5 in for BH clearance.
You didn't say what bow; most likely you will need 85# maybe more  depending on the degree of riser cut; 85 for cut to center, 100 for 3/16 past.

[S.C. Hunter]

Originally posted by Bjorn:
I'd get a test pack from Shurewood. Add 1-1.5 in for BH clearance.
You didn't say what bow; most likely you will need 85# maybe more  depending on the degree of riser cut; 85 for cut to center, 100 for 3/16 past.

It is a Robertson Primal Styk. I also forgot my current wood arrows are 70#.
Sight window in length cut past center: 2 1/8”

^^^ is the info from their site.

[moebow]

SC,

Don't over think it.  IF your 29.5 length arrows are spined OK as you are shooting now, then go up one spine group if you lengthen your arrow by one inch.  Rough rule of thumb is 5# of spine per inch of shaft length change; using the same weight point.

Arne

[WESTBROOK]

S.C., Robertsons are cut 1/8" from center + leather plate. You would probably be good with 70-75# if you stay with 125-145 pts at 30". Mine was 60@29 and those worked for me.

And it wouldnt hurt to ask Dick or Yote, they're woody shooters and they know what their bows like.

Eric

[S.C. Hunter]

Originally posted by moebow:
SC,

Don't over think it.  IF your 29.5 length arrows are spined OK as you are shooting now, then go up one spine group if you lengthen your arrow by one inch.  Rough rule of thumb is 5# of spine per inch of shaft length change; using the same weight point.

Arne

Okay got it for wood. Now for carbons stay with the 5575 GT? I think the next shaft in that arrow is 7595's.

[S.C. Hunter]

Originally posted by WESTBROOK:
S.C., Robertsons are cut 1/8" from center + leather plate. You would probably be good with 70-75# if you stay with 125-145 pts at 30". Mine was 60@29 and those worked for me.

And it wouldnt hurt to ask Dick or Yote, they're woody shooters and they know what their bows like.

Eric

Thanks I appreciate the help.

[moebow]

Ya, I was talking about wood and aluminum.  Carbons leave me totally cold.  I think 5575 Gt's are about .400 spine but others need to chime in here, I can't tune a carbon for the life of me.

Arne

[katman]

Gold tip 5575 are 400 spine, 75/95 are 300. You might get away with the 5575 in a longer length if you drop the 50gr insert. My guess is the 75/95 would be better at nearly full length.

[S.C. Hunter]

Thanks everyone. I had a feeling I may have to move up to the 7595 because I am thinking about going to a heavier head. I may also try the heavy hunters but they are expensive compared to the reg GT's.

[xtrema312]

I am a little surprised the 5575 works for you now if your bow is over 1/8” out from center including the strike plate.  I would have thought it would be stiff.  You may just want to try a longer 5575 with sufficient point weight to keep your GPP up in a safe area just to see what happens.  This would be easy to do if you have any spare full lengths shafts in stock.  
Assuming you are well tuned with what you have now, you will needs something stiffer to keep weight up. With 60# bow you will be less than 10 gpp with your current arrow and much less if you try and drop front end weight to offset the increased draw weight and arrow length. You will probably have to go to a 7595 in the GT, but those will be real stiff at 300 spine.  

The CX250 could be a good option as it is less stiff than 7595 and about the same gpi if I recall correctly. The 250 is a little stiffer than the 5575 and heavier so you can make up some needed  weight without having to go way stiff and way heavy on points.  If that will not quite make it, the 350 is stiffer yet, but still not as stiff as the 7595.

The AD trad is a great one if you have the funds.

[S.C. Hunter]

Originally posted by xtrema312:
I am a little surprised the 5575 works for you now if your bow is over 1/8” out from center including the strike plate.  I would have thought it would be stiff.  You may just want to try a longer 5575 with sufficient point weight to keep your GPP up in a safe area just to see what happens.  This would be easy to do if you have any spare full lengths shafts in stock.  
Assuming you are well tuned with what you have now, you will needs something stiffer to keep weight up. With 60# bow you will be less than 10 gpp with your current arrow and much less if you try and drop front end weight to offset the increased draw weight and arrow length. You will probably have to go to a 7595 in the GT, but those will be real stiff at 300 spine.  

The CX250 could be a good option as it is less stiff than 7595 and about the same gpi if I recall correctly. The 250 is a little stiffer than the 5575 and heavier so you can make up some needed  weight without having to go way stiff and way heavy on points.  If that will not quite make it, the 350 is stiffer yet, but still not as stiff as the 7595.

The AD trad is a great one if you have the funds.

Yes it does fly pretty well. I will try it on paper in a few days, but in the yard it looks good comimg off the bow, and they are htting straight on the target. I am thinking about a heavier arrow anyway to stay around 10gpp and plus it makes for a quiet bow. I am sorry what is the AD trad?

[xtrema312]

Arrow Dynamics

There are many factors so hard to say what will work for any particular bow and archer.  They just seem a hair stiff based on info.  With your longer draw I think they could work, but I bet you will be getting real close to 8 gpp if they work.  

I think the  CX250 will be about right with your current point weight and insert plus keep you about the same gpp as what you have now.  So similar speed and bow sound.  The 350 or 7595 could be the best option if you want more point weight then you use now.

[Charlie Lamb]

[S.C. Hunter]

Originally posted by Charlie Lamb:
 

Okay that is a little less clearance than I had before but close. I tend to wrap may hands around the grip a little more so I need the extra clearance.BOP was roughly 3/4" beyond my fingers.

[ISP 5353]

55/75 shafts are pretty versatile.  I bet they will still work if you need them a little longer.