Sharpening Single Bevel Centaurs

[bkbk12]

Has anyone got any tips or techniques for sharpening this head. Double bevel with my razor sharp wheel system simple, I have never had a problem hair shaving sharp in a minute or less. My 3 blade VPA same thing with a jewel stik. These single bevel are kicking my tail though I really wann use this head this year for turkeys, and maybe try to cut a deer in half but I cant get them sharp, sharp as I would like to save my life. I look on Alaska bowhunting and they sell a diamond single bevel pull type sharpene that you just hold in your hand I am about to resort to that any input is greatly appreciated.

[ssoden]

I use a "little Shaver" sharpener with good results. use the 25 degree angle.

[lt-m-grow]

Jim at Centaur sells a sharpening system for a bench grinder that just rocks.   Frankly Jim's system sharpens (almost) anything in a minute or two, razor sharp.  Knives, BH's, scissors etc.

Go to his site and check out the video.

And before your say or think,  a new  grinder plus Jim's system is too much $, take a second and think about how much you already spent on sharpeners, and how much you are likely to spend on new sharpeners...it isn't expensive at all.

Trust me, I know, been there.  I think I have bought at least 4 other sharpening systems, previous to Jim's.  I would have saved a bunch buying Jim's first.

Good luck. Signed by the lazy sharpener, but likes things razor sharp in minutes dude. :-)

[Will Cocke 2]

I have the wheel system and I also use a KME knife sharpener shaving sharp with either one.

[Old Chief]

I too can sharpen anything, but had a problem with single bevels.  What worked for me was to make sure I kept the flat side FLAT.  After learning this, I can get single bevels the sharpest of any broadhead I use.

[lt-m-grow]

Originally posted by Old Chief:
I too can sharpen anything, but had a problem with single bevels.  What worked for me was to make sure I kept the flat side FLAT.  After learning this, I can get single bevels the sharpest of any broadhead I use.

Good point Chief, forgot about that...actually just took it for granted.

When you sharpen a single bevel, you do need to lightly touch up the unbeveled (flat) side to knock off the burr that formed while sharpening the bevel.

I do it with one or two light passes on the flat side.  

I actually picked that up on Jim's video and forgot about it.

[Roughrider]

I've sharpened the single bevel Abowyer, Grizzly, and Zwickey no mercy with no problem.  Here's how I've done it" I first work the edge with a good, new bastard file - working off most of the machining marks until I can feel a good edge. Be very, very careful to maintain the original angle along the entire length of the blade.  Then a few strokes on a medium flat diamond hone - mostly to the bevel side with a touch up to remove the burr on the flat side -  until it begins to shave, finished on a steel or ceramic stick - again, mostly working the ground side, a few strokes on the "back" side.  I can generally get a shaving edge in a few minutes per head.  If I do get a head where I run into problems, I start over with the file, carefully working at the original angle.

I've found the narrow edge angle of the single bevels to get a very sharp shaving edge.  The problem with many of the double bevel heads, if they are made of sandwiching two pieces of steel together, is that the cutting edge is right where the two pieces of steel are joined - not a problem on single bevel.

[Friend]

Actually own Jim's sharpening system. The shame of it is that she has remained unopened.

Just find more fullfilment in sharpening by hand.

Used successfully and simply by using a three sided radiused Jew Stick and finish with a quartz rod. Effectively removing the burr and staying off the edge will facilatate achieving a desireable edge.

[bkbk12]

I have got the wheel system but for some reason I may just not be holding my angle right because I can't get it nowhere neat as sharp as I would like

[dink]

i shoot single bevel battle axes and big game heads the way that works for me is take a black sharpy color the edge then i use a chain file on them till the black is gone then i take 2 backwoods stroke on a flat stone keeping the flat non bevel side down perfectly flat to take off the bur then ticklewith a ceramic stick

[dink]

hav to agree with friend i have bunch of tools to take the skill of sharpening out of the equation but just doesnt seem as the way to do things anymore to me after going trad i hav change my way i look at alot of things

[Ray Hammond]

the very first thing on a single bevel is to flatten the flat side.

that sounds stupid, but here's why-

paint, wheel sharpening systems, grinders etc leave the flat side with hills and valleys.

You'll never get a full length burr unless you get the flat side "FLAT" first- by laying it on top of a file set down flat on your table!

Then when you've done the beveled side, again run the flat side a couple passes on the file and get that burr out away from the edge where you can see it as you move it back and forth in a light.

Now its simply a matter of stropping it on a piece of smooth leather, a cardboard strip, etc. Back and forth until you see that burr come off like wood curling off of a planed board.

[Kris]

X2 what Friend & Hammond said.  They are awesome heads!  I still hone them on the paper whell as well.

Good luck!

Kris

[Ray Hammond]

The issue with wheels and other complicated systems is they cannot be taken to the field without difficulty.  

I'm going to make a bold statement and tell you that I will put my file sharpened grizzlies up against any head.  I only use a file and a piece of leather which I can easily carry afield.  That's a decided advantage when on some extended trip away and certainly a skill worth cultivating.