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Author Topic: GT Traditionals  (Read 405 times)

Online BigJim

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Re: GT Traditionals
« Reply #20 on: March 06, 2013, 11:41:00 PM »
During a conversation with my GT rep, he mentioned that they were considering discontinuing the .003's due to lack of popularity. That was last year and I havn't heard any more on the subject since then.

The best thing you can do for those shafts to fly straighter to the target(now that you spent the time tuning) .....spend more time concentrating on the target and less time on the arrow.

good luck, bigjim
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I just try to live my life in a way that would have made my father proud.

Offline chanumpa

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Re: GT Traditionals
« Reply #21 on: March 07, 2013, 03:29:00 AM »
Sage Advice from Big Jim.Hes only sold a few thosand Dozen GlodTips and one of the best bowyers anywhere.I shoot the 55/75 blems and can shoot them out of 5 different bows from 50 to 60#s@28 and I pull them all close to 29 and they fly like darts.If the shot isnt true,for me I simply didnt release clean ,hold the bow all the way to the target,or didnt really pick a spot and concentrate on that.Wasnt the arrows fault.
I would also recomend not being afraid to load up the tips like alead glove.They will stabilize and penetrate better.

Offline Fanto

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Re: GT Traditionals
« Reply #22 on: March 07, 2013, 04:21:00 AM »
somethings wrong with the calculator inputs. if it was cut to centre your spine requirement would be 54# and if 1/8 before centre. then 47# so youre probably a little overspined.

the guy who owns the shop i go to draws 27 and shoots 3555s from his 60 and 70# longbows, with 175 up front

not saying thats ideal but he hits a bottle cap at 20 yards

cheers

Offline UrbanDeerSlayer

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Re: GT Traditionals
« Reply #23 on: March 07, 2013, 05:36:00 AM »
I think maybe something in Stu Miller got input wrong. I shoot almost the same setup, a center it R/D longbow 47#@27. You should have a dynamic spine requirement around 46#+/-2# depending on string strand count. I think your arrows are too stiff. I was shooting 3555 full length with more weight up front.
Shoot Straight, Feel Great!

Offline rwbowman

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Re: GT Traditionals
« Reply #24 on: March 07, 2013, 06:57:00 AM »
Lots of solid advice here that will all be taken into consideration. I tuned before referencing the calculator, so I won't depend on it to land me where I need to be. I will, however, say that I may have been way too concerned with these arrows flying and hitting differently than what I usually shoot (506 grains of Beman Classic MFX), to the point that I have been tweaking my form, grip on the bow and a host of other factors that I believe have just thrown me off psychologically. For the last 20 minutes of daylight Tuesday, I reminded myself that I need only shoot, rather than thinking deeply about the shot execution. The arrows flew much better and a lot closer to my point of focus on the target.

Thanks for all of the responses to this topic. You all have given me plenty to think over while I'm not shooting.
Shoot Straight..
Rory

Offline Matty

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Re: GT Traditionals
« Reply #25 on: March 07, 2013, 06:59:00 PM »
My 47# kanati Loves 1535 with 175 up front full length.
Just a shout out for the 1535s not to be over looked.
The same bow does Not Shoot 3555s well at all

Offline UrbanDeerSlayer

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Re: GT Traditionals
« Reply #26 on: March 07, 2013, 07:16:00 PM »
Bows can be particular. Mine doesn't like the 3555's, but loves the full length 5575s with 225g up front.
Shoot Straight, Feel Great!

Offline rwbowman

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Re: GT Traditionals
« Reply #27 on: March 15, 2013, 06:51:00 AM »
Well, the verdict is in: my longbow is liking the new arrows with one exception- my brace has to be higher than I've ever braced a bow. I'm around 8 3/4". Anything less and I get the arrows 'slapping' the riser. I imagine increasing point weight might change this, but I have 150 grain broadheads and am currently shooting 145 grain field points. Maybe GT brass weights?
Shoot Straight..
Rory

Offline onewhohasfun

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Re: GT Traditionals
« Reply #28 on: March 15, 2013, 07:27:00 AM »
8 3/4" on a longbow? Seems like a lot of twist in that string.
Tom

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Re: GT Traditionals
« Reply #29 on: March 15, 2013, 09:36:00 AM »
Quote
Originally posted by reddogge:
Only if you are an Olympian will you notice the difference. Don't sweat it.
I'm not a100% sure the Olympian can tell the difference.....except in their mind.

I use the .003 straightness GT XT Hunter shafts. Why? Just because I know they are straighter. If I did not know the difference, I would probably use the cheaper (.006 straightness) shafts.

Having to raise the brace height that much is an indicator that your shafts are too stiff. Try setting you brace at normal height and add 50-100gr up front. I bet you can get the arrow flying right at the correct brace if you weaken it up enough.

Bisch

Offline rwbowman

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Re: GT Traditionals
« Reply #30 on: March 16, 2013, 01:10:00 PM »
Thanks for the input. I just placed an order for some GT weights in 20 and 50 grain. Hopefully I can get the brace back down around 8". It seems like I'm going backwards from what I was trying to achieve in the first place- a lighter, flatter shooting arrow. Maybe that's not as important as I want it to be. It doesn't seem that I have gained much in the way of speed either, but that may be the result of the higher brace height, in not allowing the limbs to reflex as far as they should.
I was at our outdoor range Thursday and found that my point on, or at least point level with the spot I want to hit, is still at 40 yards. I shoot more than less instinctive at 30  yards and under and anything beyond that I tend to reference my point, shelf, or knuckle.
Shoot Straight..
Rory

Offline xtrema312

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Re: GT Traditionals
« Reply #31 on: March 16, 2013, 01:28:00 PM »
Other than shine and movement, I think maybe a very light color object in a dark background is a consideration.  Dark lines in light color cover are more natural as shadows, but light objects in dark backgrounds can stand out as out of place.  Add a little movement and it really stands out.

If you want lighter and flatter shooting with a carbon it is best to keep them longer unless you just happen to hit the right combo on your bow. Based on my experience, I would say your are stiff.  Give the weights a try given they are on the way, but some heavier field points make for easy testing changes.  Pick up a few 175's and 200's.  You can always do the weights and heavy insert to get to the point weight you want, but heavy points are just way faster in testing.
1 Timothy 4:4(NKJV)
For every creature of God is good, and nothing is to be refused if it is received with thanksgiving.

Firefly Long Bow  James 4:14
60" MOAB 54@29 James 1:17

Michigan Longbow Association

Offline rwbowman

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Re: GT Traditionals
« Reply #32 on: March 22, 2013, 07:02:00 AM »
Well I got the GT weights and got a chance to play around with them yesterday. I started out adding two 50 grain weights to a few shafts. My goal: reduce brace height and move point of impact to the right to line up arrow with point of impact at pre-draw. It worked... with a down side- arrow flight suffered tremendously.
Back to the drawing board: knocked the inserts out, removed one of the weights from each shaft, reglued and shot some more. Result- success! Brace is a smidge over 8", point of impact is in line with arrow at pre-draw and over shaft at full draw, and arrow flight is sweet! Final front end weight is at 195 grains of hardware including field point/broadhead plus standard insert (8-11 grains).

Thanks for the help here guys. I love this site.
Shoot Straight..
Rory

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