FINALY!!! a successfully bareshaft tune, sorta

[Brianlocal3]

Well gang, I have always been a shot /BH tuner. I'd go off the charts to get close and just start shooting. Id adjust point weight or cut till they flew right, then I'd screw on a couple different BH of varying weight till I found what worked. Then I tried bareshafting and that failed me, so then I went to paper tuning and that helped me some except where I shot there is ALWAYS heavy wind and I cant shoot my bows inside.

With that said my tune is good enough to shoot consistent and even win and place in a few tourneys but honestly I figured if others could figure it out so could I, which led me to try to BS AGAIN TODAY.

I modified the tuning to a mix between how Byron Ferguson does it, to BS thru paper and then when I liked how the arrow was in the bag I stepped off to 15 yds , then 20.

The arrows I have been shooting from my Morningstar turned out to be pretty weak and my nick height was way high. How my arrow ever flew before I have no idea, but yet did. So after all was said and done I cut 1" off my arrows, and lowered my nock from 5/8" to 3/8" and oh my do they fly ever so good!!!!

For those of you who are struggling with BS or tuning in general , just take a break for a while and just shoot to have some fun then try again later, maybe a day or like me maybe 4-5 months. You will get it figured out.

[Brianlocal3]

Oh let me clarify, my tune is no where like some of you fine archers where you can stack 3 BS  with 3 fletched at 30 yds but it is good enough for my BHs to hit what I want at 40 yds so that is good enough for me. I just find it odd that shooting 3U I have a 3/8" mock height but it is undeniable proof that any higher does not work with this set up

[Steve O]

Excellent. So how does Byron Ferguson do it?

[CRS]

I am a diehard bareshaft tuner.  I always start at 15 yards, then move out to 20-30 for fine tuning.

In the process of learning the bareshaft method over the last 10 years.  I always kept 2 or 3 arrows out of every batch of woodies or carbons bare.  Then I would shoot them out of all my bows or new acquisition for learning.

It has been very enlightening, and improved my shooting tremendously.

[Brianlocal3]

Steve,
Byron starts with a shaft that is somewhat close, and stands 5 paces (his words, so his five steps)  from the bag, he then shoots a  BS, if its nock left, he will cut down an 1/8" at a time till its close to straight left and right, then he fine tunes it in with brace height.  Then he sets his nock height to where there is no up or down or the nock end of the arrow.  

He explains that he does not like the 3 fletched and 3 BS for HOW HE DOES IT. So he is reading nock position in the target.  I guess it gets his arrows close enough for him.  He states his BH fly true when he is done.

[RAU]

Does Byron explain this in one of his videos or something?

[Brianlocal3]

It is explained in the book "Become the arrow" and in his DVD "barebow 101" it sh

[Brianlocal3]

I accidently hit the send button........  It has a short tuning segment in the DVD, and it gives a visual to the books explanation

[Steve O]

Thanks. Always interesting to know another technique.

[Easykeeper]

Originally posted by CRS:
I am a diehard bareshaft tuner.  I always start at 15 yards, then move out to 20-30 for fine tuning.

In the process of learning the bareshaft method over the last 10 years.  I always kept 2 or 3 arrows out of every batch of woodies or carbons bare.  Then I would shoot them out of all my bows or new acquisition for learning.

It has been very enlightening, and improved my shooting tremendously.

This works for me too.  When I can get 2-3 bare shafts right in the group with a few fletched at 25-30 yards I've found I can screw on any broadhead of the same weight and get good arrow flight with no further changes to anything.

Definitely inspires confidence in my gear.  Unfortunately it also means I have nothing to blame on the days my shooting is under par...   ...  

[RLA]

After I get a bare shaft flying good & start shooting a fletched shaft, I always end up needing to raise my nocking point to get good feather clearance.
At that point I end up with a bare shaft that flys nock high but is still flying straight.
 So I just end up using the bare shaft to find spine then move on to fletched arrows only for finding nocking point & testing broadhead flight.
 Does anyone else find your nock point for premium bare shaft flight to be to low for good feather clearance with fletched arrows?

[Brianlocal3]

RLA, that is exactly wat I use to find!!! This time I seem to not have the problem. ??

[Doc Nock]

Proponents of nock orientation in the target always made me scratch my head.

Seems to me that would ONLY work with a very NEW and HOMOGENOUS backstop.

even a self healing foam block, once shot a lot, will have the arrow point hitting other channels and veering off direction, following the path of least resistance.

I like the one on Tuff Head's site that Troy Breeding wrote up.  That has served me well, but I have to change sides on the Cabella's foam block to ensure clean "meat"... and then back up and watch the arrow like others said. I can get them dead nuts, till I hit 20-25 yards and then see arrows behaving badly in flight... Once final tuned, fletching doesn't seem to be a problem, but I don't use big high feathers.

FWIW

[Brianlocal3]

I'll look into the tuff head site, thanks

[Shawn Leonard]

I always tell guys once they get their carbons flying how they want them, add another 50-100 grains!!    Shawn

[Overspined]

Brian, you gotta start shooting wood!  Quit all the monkeying and get into a well tuned, quiet wood arrow! No more 300 gr up front that will always be nock high until fletched...if you like it, go heavy glue ons. I now shoot only wood and find it a hassle to use anything else.  I know you are a Hill style fan, tough to beat a tapered woodie out of a LB.

[Rick Richard]

RLA, I have the same results. If I tune bare shaft, I end up having to move the nock up after the feathers are in place.

[Brianlocal3]

Matt,
Funny you say that.  I just got my doz sure woods in the mail Friday as I was leaving for Indy. My points and nocks should be arriving from Braveheart tues-Wednesday.  

[xtrema312]

I also have to be hock high in flight with a bare shaft, but that is at longer distance.  At say 10 yd. or less it will look dead straight in.  Just my guess, but I think the high FOC you get with most carbons pulls the point down over longer flight distance, and the shaft will not just fall in line. So when you do get it leveled out or close shooting out 20 yd or more your are really nock low in tune to compensate and that doesn’t work out so well with the feathers on.  One thing I know for sure is that the more FOC I have the harder it is to level out the bare shaft, and at times I just can’t get leveled out no mater what I do.