Arrow broadhead change question

[captain caveman]

I shoot a 52 lb black widow pch recurve 28" draw. Currently shooting CE heritage 150 shafts and 150 grain snuffers and internal weight 8 gpi tubes.  Considering a change.  My arrows are on the short side when tuning I kept removing length to increase spine and they shoot well but Broadheads get close to knuckles if hit hard objects like target leg weight tubes pop knocks out and having trouble getting the three blade snuffers shaving sharp.  Thinking of switch to CE 250 shaft 75 grain brass glue on adapter and a 300 grain tuffhead.  Will be an investment to switch to two blade sharpening system arrows and Broadheads.  And I am a little hesitant about a glue on broadhead just real impressed with the specs on the tuffhead.  A lot of words but any suggestions or thoughts would be appreciated.

[JimB]

As far as the sharpening system,you can get a KME broadhead sharpener For about $42 and use wet or dry sandpaper in several grits,placed on a hard flat surface.I just honed up some Tuffheads that way and with the quality of their grind,it was very easy.I can't say enough about the quality of those heads and the service as well.

I did a "How to" in the How To Resouces section on sharpening Grizzly's that way.You don't need the expensive diamond hones,just the KME broadhead sharpener and wet or dry sandpaper.

[captain caveman]

Nice, are you referring to the self aligning roller type sharpener?  Any trouble with heads coming debonded or with alignment issues?

[captain caveman]

Slick I am always amazed at the resourcefulness of traditional archers.  Never thought of using different grit sandpaper on hard flat surface.  Thanks

[JimB]

Yes it's the KME broadhead sharpener.I'm not sure what you mean by debonding and alignment?

This is one of the 300 gr Tuffheads that I sharpened that way,going up to 2000 grit and stropping on cardboard.
 

[old_goat2]

Wow, now that's a polished blade edge!

[JimB]

I mentioned on another thread those heads are very,very close to hunting sharp when the arrive and the 420 HC stainless sharpens just like a good carbon steel.I just spent a few minutes honing them up.

[captain caveman]

I've only used screw on broadheads is the use of the adapter and some adhesive for the head an issue?  That's a seriously sharp head.

[JimB]

It isn't an issue if done properly.I scuff the adapter with 60 grit sand paper and roll up a small piece to lightly sand inside the broadhead's ferrule.You can use a Q-tip to get any dust out and wiping it out with acetone or laquer thinner,doesn't hurt.I glue with a fast set epoxy called Epo Grip,but others use hot melt or slower set epoxies.

The most important thing is to get the tip aligned perfectly.The best and easiest way for me is to use an alignment jig.I built this one.It doesn't have to be that fancy.You can make 2 "V" blocks out of wood or angle,instead of rollers and it will work just as well.
 

I use an arrow with a field point to establish a tip reference point on the angle at the end.Them use a pen so I can see it more easily.
 

Then glue the broadhead and put the arrow on the jig,with blade vertical.Now tweak the head till it meets the dot.

 

Then turn the arrow 90 degrees(horizontal blade)and tweak it till the tip aligns with the dot again.Set the arrow aside where it won't get bumped,until the glue sets up.I find the jig faster and easier than just aligning the tip by spinning.

 
 

It may seem complicated but it is actually fairly easy.When you get into it and have questions,I'm sure you can get plenty of help here.

[captain caveman]

Great info and pics
Thanks