wood arrow?

[Biathlonman]

Pretty new to wood arrows here, but trying to go fullMonty so to speak with the trad gear.  I've got 3 Toelke Chinooks.  #48ish, #51 and #55.  I just made up  some 70-75 Surewood Douglas fir shafts (outstanding quality and service).  My plan was to make these for the #51 but unfortunately they show just a tiny bit weak out of it.  They do appear to be perfect for the #48 so no big deal.  So where to go from here?  Do you think I should go up #5 on the next batch or.#10, all else being equal?  I'm thinking 10 and I can add point weight if I need to soften them asmidge.  Sound about right or should I be looking at #15 and try to catch both of the heavier bows (point weight depending)? Thoughts?

[SAVIOUR68]

Biathlonman a couple questions first
What is your draw length ?
How long of arrow were you shooting ?
What weight point are you looking to shoot on your finished arrow?
If these arrows show a TINY BIT WEAK there are several ways to fix this-cut them slightly shorter or decrease point weight. You can even build out your shelf slightly and/or if you are using a softer shelf material as Velcro or calf hair you can go to a piece of leather which will also help . I would think those arrows at 29" with a 28" draw with 125 gr points would be very very close. Good luck WOOD IS GOOD    

[SteveMcD]

I am surprised. At a 28" draw length 70-75 is pretty stiff enough for a 55# Bow. For a Longbow with a 125 gr point I would even go a tad lighter 65-70. For a 48# bow 70-75 is way too stiff unless you've got one heck of a cant to compensate for it.

[Biathlonman]

Bow weights listed are at 28", I draw close to 29".  Arrows are 30"with 125gr. Point.  Also shoot 8 strand SBD strings. The ones I have are perfect with the lightest bow so no reason to change anything.  I'd like to shoot 125 or 160gr. Points on the next bunch just because that's what I have a bunch of.

[SAVIOUR68]

I would think that going up 5#s in spine would be enough for the 51# bow. Your draw length and arrow length now show why the 70-75s are slightly weak.

[SteveMcD]

Biathlonman.. if that is working for you, I see no reason to change. I shoot Hill Style Longbows and find when a decision needs to be made in spine, going with the tad lighter spine to work best rather than stiffer. Good luck.

[elkken]

Interesting that you find that set up weak ... 70-75's were my favorite woodies out of all my 55# bows. My draw is 28" and I was usually shooting 125 to 145 grn heads on 29 1/2 " shafts BOP. I would go up 10# if you are finding them weak now, I never had many issues going up in spine with wood.

Good luck ...

[Biathlonman]

I think the skinny string is the culprit as they make the bows shoot much stiffer shafts then you would expect.  I'm leaning 10 lbs. Just to be safe.

[gringol]

I shoot 80-85# spine out of a 56# bow with skinny string.  I draw to 29.5.  I'm not surprised by your results. Seems about right.

[jeffg]

Now I am confused. I shoot a Robertson Fatal Styk. 53@27. I draw 27 my arrows are 28. I want to shoot woods (surewoods) and I thought you add about #10 to the spine for a recuve which is 63#. Are woods like Sure spined @ 28"?

[gringol]

Originally posted by jeffg:
Now I am confused. I shoot a Robertson Fatal Styk. 53@27. I draw 27 my arrows are 28. I want to shoot woods (surewoods) and I thought you add about #10 to the spine for a recuve which is 63#. Are woods like Sure spined @ 28"?

They're spined at 26".  I had to go up 10# in spine when i switched to skinny string.  The best thing you can do is get a test pack.

[Echatham]

i shoot surewood 80/85s cut to 29" with a 28" draw out of a 53#@28 fedora hybrid with a skinny string.  just another data point for ya.  try Stu miller's dynamic spine calculator out.  for some reason i have to put in a "personal form factor" of about 10