# Reduction?

[yellowwolf]

Hello Everyone,

I'm in need of reducing the poundage of my Samick Deer Hunter (I'm getting old). It's a takedown that has a few years on it, so they no longer make replacement limbs of the proper length/fit. I read one of your (Trad Gang) older threads (2009) that discussed "edge" sanding and "flat" sanding, and I was wondering if there's been any new developments in that area? Edge sanding seems risky to me, so I'm inclined to go with flat sanding. My question is, do I/should I sand both sides of the limbs? From what I've read about wood having a greater tensile strength, as opposed to compression, I'm inclined to sand just the back of the limbs? I should add that, the limbs are solid hard wood and are relatively thick. All comments will be greatly appreciated; It's my favorite bow and I would rather not ruin it! [[email protected]]  

                          Thanks!

[Whip]

When I had the Bow Hospital business I generally would use a combination of both flat sanding and edge sanding.  My thoughts are to take as little as possible off of each surface in order to achieve the reduction you are looking for.  

Sanding needs to be uniform on all surfaces so that you don't create a weak spot in any area.  I use a pneumatic drum sander.  I don't want to make it sound like rocket science, but it isn't for everyone without the proper equipment.

Your limbs are not actually solid wood, but are a laminate of wood with fiberglass on the belly and back.  Flat sanding is actually reducing the thickness of those fiberglass layers which are probably 30-40 thousands of an inch.  

That being said, it is not all that easy to do correctly, and pretty easy to mess it up.  In most cases I would recommend having someone who knows what they are doing do the reduction for you.  John Rafferty, the new owner of the Bow Hospital, would be able to help you I'm sure.  He is a sponsor here.

Is buying new or used limbs for your bow and selling your existing ones an option?  Unless you are somehow really attached to those particular limbs, in many cases that might be an easier solution.

[woodchucker]

Ok, Probly a stupid answer... But, here goes!

A Samick Deerhunter, is really not that high priced of a bow. You said it's your "favorite" bow??? Yet, you said you were looking for replacement limbs??? How about this...

Buy another Deerhunter, in a lower weight. Then, swap the lower weight limbs to your riser. Then, (if you choose) your could sell the other bow on the classifieds, and probly get at least half your money back.

Just one old fart's crazy idea...

[Bjorn]

I would do what woodchucker suggests-way more predictable outcome.

[yellowwolf]

Thanks for the feedback! I like the sound of the Bow Hospital, and you're right woodchucker, it's not an expensive bow, but it is beautiful and I love the way it shoots. Replacing the limbs isn't an option, the riser is shorter than everything they make now, so NO limbs will give me a 62" bow. Finally, I do have other bows, but I'm really fond of this one. There is one more thing I'm curious about, I was told that expensive bows do not shoot any better (measurably) than less expensive ones; any opinions on that?

[ChristopherO]

Yellowwolf,
To answer your last question:
I make my own 62" one piece recurves, which I like very much and enjoy shooting.  Would I categorize it in the expensive bow camp?  No, unless a bow that is possibly worth $400 is expensive for you.  I've shot factory bows that would cost more that are OK but nothing over the one I make/shoot, imho.  Have I shot many expensive bows?  A few, here and there.  A Striker bow at Cloverdale a few years back really got my attention.  Excellent bow and, I believe, tipping the price range at $700+.  Yet, the bow I've shot that I must say is my all time favorite is a buddy's Shaffer Silvertip.  Unbelieveable handling bow.  I know those are not cheap but well worth the money for those wiling to cough it up.  I won't at this point in life but maybe someday I will.

[ChristopherO]

Oh, yes, I should add:
I am putting the finish on a black walnut limbed bow that I had to reduce weight down from 50 to 40#'s.  I couldn't believe how much effort that took.  Over 6 hours invested to accomplish this as I was being extra careful not to reduce too much.  Pain in the tail task but it can be done, just like Whip said above.

[yellowwolf]

I have never dreamed of making my own bow, but I am somewhat of a craftsman, and when I was told there was no difference in performance, relevant to cost, I thought, "How could that be?". ChristopherO, have you ever calculated what you would have to sell one of your bows for if you wanted to make money on it? Which brings me to another point, how does Samick, or Ragim (Italian made) get away with selling such inexpensive bows? Samick, made in Korea, I can understand, but Ragims; Italy? I was looking at a Hoyt, El Dorado the other day ($600.00), what a piece of junk! It was heavy and felt like POO in my hand. So I guess the moral of the story is, when it comes to a good bow, it all depends.

[moththerlode]

I just sent a bow back to a bower for wt reduction, plus tiller for three under and will refinish. 150 bucks including shipping back Do it myself , Naw.

[yellowwolf]

Hey motherlode (?),

Thanks for your service, and is your user name spelled the way you want? Realistically, my bow is only worth about $300.00, so I couldn't justify spending $150.00 to alter it; I'm gonna' do it my self. SALUTE!

[Pheonixarcher]

Generally speaking, an expensive bow is expensive because of hand selected premium grade woods, the bowyers labor, the superb fit and finish (that you just don't get with mass produced bows), and, in some cases, the demand for a particular bowyers skills.
And yes, an expensive custom bow can shoot better than cheaper models, and vice versa.
Certain bows work better for different people. It's all in what you like (and can afford).

[yellowwolf]

Thanks for the feedback phoenix, and luckily I'm not a good enough shot to where I could tell the difference in an expensive bow. But, I can tell how it feels in my hand (i.e. balance, grip shape), which seems to me, to be as important as anything structural!

[reddogge]

Originally posted by yellowwolf:
 There is one more thing I'm curious about, I was told that expensive bows do not shoot any better (measurably) than less expensive ones; any opinions on that?

To be perfectly honest you'll need to shoot a lot of bows both cheap, classic, and expensive customs to draw you own conclusions.

I've never shot a Wes Wallace, Norm Johnson, or a premium ILF limb that didn't shoot circles around Samick Sages or bows of that nature. I guy on the range wanted me to shoot his inexpensive bow last weekend and it shot horrible (I didn't tell him that though). The more varied bows you shoot the more you will be able to make your own decision.

[reddogge]

Originally posted by reddogge:

Originally posted by yellowwolf:
[qb]  There is one more thing I'm curious about, I was told that expensive bows do not shoot any better (measurably) than less expensive ones; any opinions on that? [/b]

To be perfectly honest you'll need to shoot a lot of bows both cheap, classic, and expensive customs to draw you own conclusions.

I've never shot a Wes Wallace, Norm Johnson, or a premium ILF limb that didn't shoot circles around entry level bows. A guy on the range wanted me to shoot his inexpensive bow last weekend and it shot horrible (I didn't tell him that though). The more varied bows you shoot the more you will be able to make your own decision.

[reddogge]

Duplicate post

[yellowwolf]

I agree reddogge, but how often does one get the chance to shoot a Bob Lee (or similar), and at what point does the sheer pleasure of shooting get lost in the quest and money spent trying to find the perfect bow? If can successfully reduce the pounds on my Samick "Deer Hunter", along with my other two bows, I will probably never buy another bow.

[yellowwolf]

I agree with you reddogge, but how often does one get the chance to shoot a Bob Lee (or similar), and at what point does the sheer pleasure of shooting get lost in the quest and money spent trying to find the perfect bow? If I can successfully reduce the pounds of my Samick "Deer Hunter", along with my other two bows, I may never buy another bow!

[Muss03]

The expensive bow question is a bit relative. I have owned alot, I mean alot, of pricey, custom bows. I have not however, payed for one new. I have always purchased or traded for used bows. The only exception is my first trad bow, a Bear Grizzly, that I bought new at Bass Pro Shops. It is one of my favorite of three bows and I will never get rid of it. I picked up a Cascade Nighthawk some time ago and it is by far the best shooting bow, for me, that I have ever shot. Simply unbelievable, and I am not exagerating here. My shooting improved drastically after I began shooting that bow, for the most part, all of the time. The Cascades are expensive, but I got this one on trade and do not have as much in it. I recently missed out on another Cascade on the classifieds for about a third of the price new.  My advice would be to try step out of your comfort zone and try different ones, if you can, and go from there.