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Author Topic: sharping  (Read 252 times)

Offline Timothy Ray

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sharping
« on: July 27, 2013, 06:44:00 PM »
having trouble sharping magnus BH the reinforced front will not get sharp using lansky system  any ideas
Tim  Voss

Offline TxAg

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Re: sharping
« Reply #1 on: July 27, 2013, 06:46:00 PM »
In my experince you have to use a file to establish the edge. It takes a little while on the reinforced tips. After that, sharpening will be a breeze.

Online Charlie Lamb

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Re: sharping
« Reply #2 on: July 27, 2013, 08:55:00 PM »
What TxAg said.    :thumbsup:
Hunt Sharp

Charlie

Offline Butch Speer

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Re: sharping
« Reply #3 on: July 27, 2013, 10:18:00 PM »
When sharpening a new BH with the laminated tip, I always file the laminated part first. That way you'll have a smooth transition to the rest of the head.
God Bless

Butch the Yard Gnome

67 Bear Kodiak Hunter 58" 48@28
73 Bear Grizzly 58" 47@ 28
74 Bear Kodiak Hunter 45@28
Shakespeare Necedah 58" 45@28

Nothing is ever lost by courtesy. It is the cheapest of pleasures, costs nothing, and conveys much.
- Erastus Wiman

Offline Timothy Ray

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Re: sharping
« Reply #4 on: July 28, 2013, 08:37:00 PM »
the file worked well thinks for info
Tim  Voss

Offline Butch Speer

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Re: sharping
« Reply #5 on: July 29, 2013, 01:41:00 PM »
Glad to be of help.
God Bless

Butch the Yard Gnome

67 Bear Kodiak Hunter 58" 48@28
73 Bear Grizzly 58" 47@ 28
74 Bear Kodiak Hunter 45@28
Shakespeare Necedah 58" 45@28

Nothing is ever lost by courtesy. It is the cheapest of pleasures, costs nothing, and conveys much.
- Erastus Wiman

Offline Hud

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Re: sharping
« Reply #6 on: July 29, 2013, 01:49:00 PM »
If you use a file, be sure to maintain the bevel. Two methods I use:  starting with a 10" single cut file, lay it flat on cardboard, or workbench, lay the two blade with surface to work on, flat on file, and stroke from handle to tip of file 1-3 times per side and then the opposite. Remove burr with a leather strope (belt).
Second, use a wheel sharpener, like a RADA, or Firestone 2-stage wheel sharpener (Amaz--). Some have two wheels side by side, total of four wheels, which are better IMO. Wheels are steel, or ceramic. Some only have two wheels.  It gives it a hollow ground. Sharpening can be harder than it should be, because the flat bevel tends to get rounded, the wheel prevents that. Since using the file (laid flat), and/or the wheel, it only takes a few minutes to put a sharp edge on a blade. I use the wheel for knives followed by stroping.  It is easy to carry the two afield.

A trick with the wheels is a short, light pressure, back and forth with the blade vertical, so it removes minimal steel from both sides evenly. With the file, I like to point the tip of the broadhead straight down the center of the file, with light pressure. Use light pressure with either method.    :thumbsup:
TGMM Family of the Bow

Offline Hud

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Re: sharping
« Reply #7 on: July 29, 2013, 04:03:00 PM »
Another wheel sharpener is the Ekco knife sharpener. It will sharpen Hill, Grizzly, or any two blade and many three brades.
TGMM Family of the Bow

Offline Chuck Janssen

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Re: sharping
« Reply #8 on: July 29, 2013, 04:51:00 PM »
Thank you all, I just logged on to ask the questions you just answered. Just got some new  2 blade broadheads that need a edge put on them.
I will give these suggestions a try tonight. With the cold weather this past weekend, the deer will be rutting in no time.
Life at it's Longest is Short

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