Woodsman Sharpening with Sandpaper...Yes or No??

[Nala]

Hey all,

I have some of the original Wensel Woodsman heads I got from 3 Rivers.  I haven't used them yet, but will in the next couple of months when I start pig hunting here in Texas.  I have an older one that someone gave me to practice sharpening on just to see what was the best method.

So far I have found that the best for me is using a file with lighter and lighter strokes.

I was wondering something though.  I have read that a lot of people that use these heads recommend that after doing the main sharpening with a file you should use a crok stick to final hone them.  I don't have one.
I then started thinking whether a sheet of fine EMORY Paper or Sandpaper would work as effectively if it was placed flat on the table and light pressure was used.  Has anyone tried this?  How does it work if you know?

Also, what about starting with a heavier grit Emory paper and then working down to a finer grit?  Would that sharpen them really well or would it be a wast of time?

What do you think about using sandpaper to sharpen these heads?

Thanks for the time.

Nalajr

[m midd]

As long as the sandpaper is on a flat surface. I use sandpaper to sharpen my woodsman elites and it works very well.
I finish up with ceramic and a leather strop

[Nala]

When doing this is it better to use a deliberate back and forth motion or a circular motion to sharpen?

What about honing with very fine paper?  Yea or Nay?  Same motion or circular or what?

Nalajr

[Biathlonman]

Crock sticks are cheap on the big auction site.  I've also used the knife steel in the kitchen knife set to good effect.

[Easykeeper]

I did that once after reading an article somewhere, it worked but I didn't like it as well as a good set of stones and oil...it's kind of a pain and a little messy.  But, after you get the blades true on the file, wet or dry sandpaper will get your blades very sharp if done right.  

I found that a piece of glass, or a dead flat surface like a stone counter top was critical to success.  Wet the surface so the back of the paper sticks flat, then wet the top before starting on the head.  You need to have the sandpaper wet and flat, very important.  I had to sharpen by pulling the head backwards (opposite direction of cut), not push forward like on a file or stones (same direction of cut).  Like always, light strokes and count the number of strokes per blade.

Even though I like stones better the wet or dry paper if done properly will get them amazingly sharp.  If you go down to the very, very fine grits you can get a polished edge very similar to stropping with leather and compound.

[Onions]

I used to use sandpaper, and would get WW very sharp. Now I use a file with light strokes. Once I have them sharp with the file I use a piece of cardboard. Place the cardboard on a flat surface, then pull the head backwards. Amazing how this works.

chris <><

[Bobby Urban]

a smooth ceramic tile works great as well.

[Bladepeek]

Easykeeper just provided the procedure you want to use. You can pick up some 400, 600 and 2000 grit wet/dry paper at any auto parts store. Light strokes and keeping the paper wet will keep it cutting for a long time.If you push into the edge, any little ripple in the paper will have you slicing it, so I've also found it works best to drag it back from the edge (drag from the heel to the point). You can put a mirror polish on the edge that will be scary sharp and, unlike a 2-blade, it's almost impossible to mess up the angle as its fixed by the blades lying on the paper.

[Zradix]

I'd only pull on sand paper.
Cardboard does a great job as a "strop"

[Sharpster]

Originally posted by Easykeeper:
I did that once after reading an article somewhere, it worked but I didn't like it as well as a good set of stones and oil...it's kind of a pain and a little messy.  But, after you get the blades true on the file, wet or dry sandpaper will get your blades very sharp if done right.  

I found that a piece of glass, or a dead flat surface like a stone counter top was critical to success.  Wet the surface so the back of the paper sticks flat, then wet the top before starting on the head.  You need to have the sandpaper wet and flat, very important.  I had to sharpen by pulling the head backwards (opposite direction of cut), not push forward like on a file or stones (same direction of cut).  Like always, light strokes and count the number of strokes per blade.

Even though I like stones better the wet or dry paper if done properly will get them amazingly sharp.  If you go down to the very, very fine grits you can get a polished edge very similar to stropping with leather and compound.

Perfect!  


Ron

[Huh]

I have been using sandpaper for a while and really like it.  Check out the scary sharp videos and tutorials online for ideas.

[fisherick]

I use a course then followed by fine grade sandpaper that I place on a clipboard to sharpen my WW broad heads and finish with a ceramic stick.
Gets scary sharp.

[Nala]

Thanks all.

I guess I need to pick up a ceramic stick if I am going to be able to sharpen all my heads effectively.


I'm gonna try the method that you all talk about with the sandpaper.  Gonna go get some 400, 600 and 2000 grit wet paper to use.

Just so I know, are you all starting and finishing with the sandpaper and NOT using a file at all?  Using the pull to you style to sharpen and hone...correct?

Do the ceramic sticks also work great on 2 blade heads like the Bear Razorheads after you get as far as you can with a file?

Thanks all

Nalajr

[Easykeeper]

Originally posted by Nala:

Just so I know, are you all starting and finishing with the sandpaper and NOT using a file at all?  Using the pull to you style to sharpen and hone...correct?

I don't know about recently manufacture   original Wensel Woodsmans but the originals I have had from a few years back all needed some truing up on the files to get the edges straight.  Once you get the edges true, sharpen using your favorite method.  They are a great head but mine always needed a little file work right out of the package.  The newer Woodsman Elites that I have don't need the file work, their edges are straight enough to go right to the stones.

Using paper I always pull, using stones I push...either way use light pressure and plenty of oil or water (water with paper).  At the end it's really just the weight of the head and enough pressure to guide it.