Bareshaft Question with 65-70#POC

[snag]

I am starting to pull my hair out! I am shooting a RER Vortex longbow that is 53#@28", which is my draw length. I have cut these 11/32" POCer down to 29"bop with 160gr. tips and still it is 6" weak and drives down when hitting target at 15 yds!(Nock high, tip low). The nock point is 3/4". I went to 125gr. tips and it still is shooting weak by 4"-5" and tip low, nock high. How can that be for that heavy of a spined arrow? I shot some 75-79# POC arrows out of it and they flew good...but they were not bare shafts either.

[**DONOTDELETE**]

adding feathers will add stiffness. get 3 bareshaft & 3 fully done arrows w/either BH or make another set of 3.... the bareshafts & the finished arrows should group together. check out   O.L. Adcock  tuning arrows.

[Jack Denbow]

If it were me I would have to use 70-75# but if you have a low stretch string I would say 75-80#. I wouldn't worry about the nock high on the bare shafts if the fletched shafts are flying good.
Jack

[O.L. Adcock]

Snag, Bet they did't fly as good as you thought they did. If you make a change and don't see a change, that means either didn't go far enough or went the wrong way. I suspect you went the wrong way and the arrow tails are hitting the shelf/window giving you a weak/nock high indication when the problem is you are WAY over spined. Looking at the shaft direction will lie to you so only go by the relationship between bare and fletched groups, ignore shaft angle. 53# bow there is no reason you can't get 50-55# arrows to fly to perfection....O.L.

[Van/TX]

Have you actually tested the spine of those shafts?  Even with 160 grains up front they should not shoot weak cut at 29".  I suspect you are going the wrong way also.  I'd drop down 10#'s spine (tested of course) and put on feathers...Van

[snag]

I'm going down to 55-60# with the next bunch of shafts. The 65-70# I will try and add weight upfront and see if I can get them to work. Thanks for helping me to make sense of this.

[longbowman]

I want to make sure I'm understanding this correctly.  I've been bareshaft tuning for years and have always tuned my shafts first to the nocking point height and then to stiffness.  If my arrow impacted with a high nock I lower my nocking point, if it impacted with a low nock I raise my nocking point.  It's after this that I work on the left nock vs right nock problems.  I've never heard that you nock high or low was an indicator of spine problems unless it's "extremely" off.