tuning for 3 under/ bow choice.

[crunch]

I had the chance to shoot  Blacktail, 60", and a 62" Dale Dye bow today. Both were gorgeous bows. They were set up for split.  I've switched over to 3 under. Would one or the other bows be easier to set up for 3 under? Obviously I cannot change the tiller.

Thanks,

Bob

[Paul_R]

I'd be interested to hear the answers from the experts as I shoot 3 under too.

Being new to this, I can't imagine how it could possibly make a difference.

The only difference I've run into is with short recurves. I get finger pinch if I try to use split but that's not a tuning issue. Is it?

[crunch]

My DL is 28 1/2", generally I like  a 62-64" bow, But the Blacktail has great manners.

[Bernie B.]

I don't think you'd have any trouble setting up either bow for three finger under shooting.  I've shot that way for forty-five years with bow from 52" - 68" and haven't found a problem.  I certainly don't consider myself an expert, but think that most bows can be shot either way.

Bernie Bjorklund

NC Iowa/SW Wisconsin

[SlowBowinMO]

I find the longer a bow is the less it matters.  But just about any bow can be set up to shoot 3 under well.  Since I presume you're talking about recurves, my first choice would be to put an elevated rest on it like a Bear Weather Rest.  If you want to shoot off the shelf you'll likely need a slightly higher nock point, that's all.

[crunch]

I'd shoot it off the shelf. Thanks guys.

[Scott E]

Start your nocking point at 5/8" and use silencers/brace height to get the bow quiet. You won't notice the difference in the tiller.

[crunch]

Thanks Scott. Can't stand a noisy bow.

[Shawn Leonard]

Yup, higher nocking point is usually all that is required. I myself would choose the Blaktail everytime. I have owned both and the Blacktail is an absolute great shooter!! Shawn

[crunch]

Thanks everyone.

[wandering monk]

depending on the limbs tillering is the real issue here...

the distance that the limbs measure at the point the riser ends and the limbs start(like where the wedge taper ends is a good spot to measure)

most modern custom bows are set so the upper limb is 1/16" -1/8" farther from the string...this accomadates the fact that arrows are shot above the center point of your bow. Especially with an elevated rest...

for me shooting "apache" style I like to shoot off the shelf with the shelf cut as close to the grip of my hand as possible.

the throat of the bow is supposed to be dead middle of the bows length , where your tab and fingers are fulcrumed at release of the arrow...3 under can have the arrow nock at a bit closer to square if the limbs are tillered pretty close...

The biggest mistake made by archers shooting three under is to let their top finger and tab pinch the arrow shaft...this can cause serious "porpoising" ...or even a group that is wide...this comes from the nock not leaving the string with lack of tension on it...paper testing can be all over the place until this factor isdealt with...

if this can be avoided accuracy will double(if not more)...if it is hard to regulate an extra nock point below the arrows nock to allow you to pull off the nock is OK...I like to spin on a little thread under my nock single point to help the nock "lock in place"...also focusing presure equally so that the focus point of the tab at full draw is 90 degrees to the center of the throat also makes a huge difference for accuracy...

I usually focus a bit more on my lowest of three fingers a bit to help balance out the pressure... this has halped me a lot...

I started shooting 3 under about 25 years ago...and anchoring with the nock closer to my eyes sight plane...not really looking at the arrow, but being alighned with it...also canting the bow enough so I can see my target w/ both eyes open is crucial...this also helps arrow flight with bows that are cut to center with the paradox of the arrows flight...

longer bows like a LB seem to be the easiest to shoot this method...but with some fine tuning even a shorter Recurve can perform awesome...

I shoot a 55" TD now...and just like all shorter bows any mistakes you make are magnified...

hope this might be of a little help...

     
   


I like to make an "oversized" tab myself to get the best results(with extra material at the lower end...this equals out after drawing back the bow all the way)

it really helps if you can draw out the mechanics going on here in your head, or even on a piece of paper...and see the angles of the limbs, location of the arrow & shelf and nock...also the amount the arrow is above center and the throat of the bow in comparison...it makes even more sense as to why thing work better...

 
...I have big hands, and the standard tabs just dont allow me to get the even pressure that is so important for consistent shooting...especially with heads...

[Easykeeper]

I don't have much to add to what's been posted but I do have a couple 64" Blacktails and a 62" Dale Dye and they are all tillered for split finger.  All shoot fine three under but I do end up with a relatively high nock point.  Usually in the 5/8"-7/8" range.  

I still shoot split but have experimented enough with three under to know that at least those particular bows work fine that way.  Split finger is always a little quieter than three under, at least for me.  Three under is definitely quiet   enough though, so shoot whatever style feels comfortable to you.