Test kit Arrow question

[Branpoes]

Hey guys, first post here.  I recently purchased an arrow test kit from 3 rivers hoping to bare shaft tune my old recurve.  The only thing I'm unsure of is whether or not I should cut the arrows to fit my draw length right away or trim as needed.  How does one insert a "insert" and then remove it later to cut?  I also got a field point test kit hoping to mix and match to the right spine.  Thanks guys

[spike buck]

Use a hot melt type glue so you can reheat the point and take them out. I would start full length and cut them as needed. Good luck!

[Legolas]

And adding point weight weakens the arrow,and decreasing brace ht. ineffect weakens the arrow.

[Zradix]

Originally posted by spike buck:
Use a hot melt type glue so you can reheat the point and take them out. I would start full length and cut them as needed. Good luck!

I agree.

[Bladepeek]

I've also used a piece of Saran Wrap for temporary inserts. Just put a small piece over the end of the arrow and push the insert in and trim off the excess. Not too secure, but works good for tuning. It doesn't weigh enough to affect your results.

[JBridegroom22]

You can also cut off the back unless they are tapered.
Josh

[Bud B.]

Carbon?

Unless you have an arrow saw be very careful about cutting carbons. The cut must be squarely and evenly cut. A saw can splinter them if you try by hand.

How long are the shafts and how long is your draw? Many people use full length carbons and tune with point weight only, having longer arrows than necessary but well tuned arrows.


Welcome to tradgang. You're in a good place.

[Branpoes]

They are carbon, I believe Easton "traditional only."  The kit included 5 different spines and I also purchased the field point kit with 5 different weights.  Keeping them full length would be nice down the road when buying arrows.  Why do many keep carbon full length?

[Dave Worden]

The only IMPORTANT thing about arrow length is that they are not too short.  As long they aren't so short you can draw (or overdraw) them right off the shelf/rest what's important is tuning/finding the right spine.  A long-winded way of saying don't cut them off for any reason except to obtain good arrow flight.  Certainly don't cut first and then begin tuning.  Of course, this is just one man's opinion!

[Fattony77]

I keep mine full length for convenience. Both during the initial tuning process and for fixing up replacement arrows later. When I buy replacements I just buy the shafts, the insert needed for whichever bow I'm making up for & fletch 'em up. Since I don't have an arrow saw, I don't hafta worry about getting them cut at the local shop before I get to shoot 'em.

[Bud B.]

Shorter carbons tend to be boogers to tune also as they act differently than wood and aluminum. They recover so quickly from paradox. Shorter carbons need much more front end weight. That's good if you want extremely high FOC.

[Branpoes]

Funny you mention that.  I just got done shooting and the only combo that worked for me was a 600 spine arrow with 275 point.  Both extremes of the kits?  Any thoughts on this?

[Bud B.]

What weight is your bow rated and how long is your draw? And what is your bow? A center cut bow vs. a longbow cut before center are two very different animals.

[Branpoes]

Bow is 50# bear grizzly, 27.5 draw length thanks

[Bud B.]

WOW!

I use 3555 GT Trad 500 spine carbons with 175gr heads & draw length similar to yours and my arrows fly very well out of my 50# Super Grizzly.


Not sure why yours is needing so much weight for 600s???


Any carbon gurus out there??