So much depends on whether the bow's shelf is cut to center/past center, whether or not you are drawing the full 50#, whether the bow is FF, etc. Having said that, my guess is that if your bow is cut to center you will have good flexibility with the 1916 shaft. However, if your bow is not cut to center and/or you don't pull the full 50#, you may discover that the 2013 is a better overall choice.
If you have access to a saw, my recommedation would be that you get a few test shafts and try them via the bare shaft tuning method. Remember to tune for a weak bare shaft so that when flethching is applied, you will be spot on.
Claudia