Fletch-Tite Platinum Reformulated

[stagetek]

Same as many above. I use wraps on both carb's and aluminums, and haven't had any problems.

Can you say  NPV ? Works great on every kind of arrow.  

[Tall Paul]

I used Fletching Tape for fletching my Carbons, so no problem there.  But I used Fletch-Tite Platinum to glue the nocks on, and they kept coming off.

I switched to Saunders Archery NPV glue last month for the nocks, and it worked really well.

Note: I always clean the aluminum nock insert and the inside of the nock with alcohol.

[Gregg S]

Outrigger. Dan is right. You just contradicted yourself there. Did you mean to say that the "new" tube is on the "right" side and that it doesn't list aluminum on the label? Let me know because I have an unopened tube that matches the one on the left that I bought about a year ago. Thanks.

[Bonebuster]

A LONG time ago I quit cleaning shafts with ANY kind of solvent...I have used very fine sandpaper and lightly sand the bonding surfaces, then wipe them surface with a dry paper towel that has never had contact with my hands...also, when the feather is in the clamp, I lightly stroke each one with the same fine paper.

I NEVER have a problem with adhesion...and I mean NEVER.

If I use a wrap, I do not sand them, BUT I do sand the quill on the feather very lightly.

[Outrigger]

Originally posted by Outrigger:
 

Originally posted by Outrigger:
 

Originally posted by Dan Adair:
Outrigger...

Did you get confused on which was which?  Your picture contradicts what you said just a little          

No, I did not get confused on which was which, rather I misworded part of it. As I previously typed, the first tube is what I previously had on hand. Where I previously typed that the "tube on the left" is the new one that Bohning sent me, I should have typed "the tube on the right". In other words, the second tube (reading from left to right)is the new one. Thanks for pointing out the error. [/b]

[/b]

[Charlie Lamb]

I go way back with FletchTite and am astounded that an adhesive of such strength and durability would be reformulated only to provide such spotty dependability.

Reminds me of the "new" Coke. It's like, "you're kidding right?"

I switched to NPV and am getting excellent adhesion on multiple surfaces.

[hickstick]

all my arrows get wraps, and I use fletch tape on feathers and superglue gel on vanes.   I can fetch a full dozen shafts in minutes.

(after the feathers are stuck on with tape I run a very thin bead of duco down he side of the quill to prevent any 'roll'.)

the major bonus to wraps is...if the feathers get damaged from shooting/wear/etc...you don't need to cut/scrape/risk damaging shafts....just run the wrap under hot tap water and they will peel off with a little effort.

[Charlie Lamb]

Just a footnote on fletching aluminum shafts... in the beginning aluminum shaft had no finish except that they were highly polished. They were notorious for being challenging to fletch to.

Most often I was taught to use a clean rag and scouring powder to clean the oxidation off the shaft. Depending on the grade of the shaft (how soft the aluminum was)  You'd scour, rinse and scour until no black came off the shaft. Then you had to fletch immediately or the shaft would oxidize and the cleaning would have to be repeated.

When the shafts evolved to a hard anodized finish they only require removing oils and dirt from the surface of the shaft.

I've used a thorough wipe with Acetone. Rubbing hard until the shaft sings as you wipe it. After that a good fletching cement should bond forever.

You can also just wash them with paper towel and dishwashing detergent.

[hickstick]

NVP says fast drying on the tube...how fast? as quick as the 'quick-set' super glues?   If I could have an adhesive that would bone vanes AND feathers that would be nice...

[Charlie Lamb]

Here's a little tid bit. Bohning archery co. grew up around the aluminum arrow shaft. The first paints were designed to "sheath" the shaft with a plastic formula and to be compatible with the cement they developed in parallel. Using FletchTite on Fletchlac painted shafts was the way to fletch an aluminum arrow and have the fleathers stay on.

The developement of hard anodizing to prevent oxidation issues made the paint unnecessary. FletchTite cement bonded to anodized shafts great.

[Doc Nock]

After 20 yrs fletching my own arrows, the past dozen years using NPV, this year, I had a half dozen arrows lose feathers!!!

Carbon. Cleaned.  Feathers sanded in the jig before application.

I'm hoping, after all those years, I just got a sucky batch of NPV.

[Charlie Lamb]

the NVP dries and behaves very much like FletchTite.

[Dave Worden]

I've never had a problem with Platinum, but I've always used it over a crown dip (Bohning white).