Wood arrow spine play

[Cavscout9753]

So I'm done fooling with carbons and I'm going back to woodies. I plan on ordering the #45-#50 cedars from Kustom King. I have an assortment of glue on tips at 125 grains. I am ordering them uncut so I can tune. I'll list stats below, I'm just wondering what type of tip weight options I'll be looking at being able to use and at what length. I know there are plenty of variables, just asking for what opinions are out there. I cant wait to get into making woodies in the near future.

Samick Red Stag one piece recurve
50# @ 28"
I draw 27.5"
I have both a dacron and fast flight string
Off the shelf, cut to center riser
5" shield cut feathers

Now to just get rid of these carbons.

[Prairie Drifter]

I think you'll need more spine. I shoot 50-55 out of my 45 to 50lb(at my draw length) bows. I draw 26" and cut my arrows to 27".

[Green]

Point weight scenario's are endless.  75-190 straight glue ons, but you can use woodie weights in combo with these to go as high as 390 total.  There's also glue on adapters that allow you to use any weight screw in points.

[Orion]

If you want any leeway to play with point weight above 125 grains, you'll need heavier spine, at least 50-55 and 55-60 if you want to use the fast flite string. 55-60 would probably be best all around.

[cahaba]

Originally posted by Orion:
[qb] If you want any leeway to play with point weight above 125 grains, you'll need heavier spine, at least 50-55 and 55-60 if you want to use the fast flite string. 55-60 would probably be best all around.

THIS

[Jim Wright]

With the f.f. string and assuming you cut your arrows 29"-29.5" throat of nock to back of point, you may well need 60-65# spine to go much heavier than the 125 gr. points

[Cavscout9753]

Ok, good info. If I stay with 125 weight (which is not bad since I have plenty of tip combo's in that weight), and keep them around 30", I should be good? My fear is over spine since I have gone crazy with that issue already.

[Cavscout9753]

In retrospect, I'm thinking the 50-55 with 125 weight tips will give me the best tune experience. Even if it means forgetting about the FF string.

I have found with cedars that having a lot of extra length is a variable that is difficult to prdict from bow to bow or from shooter to shooter. Here is one example. I have a friend that is changing his draw alot from bow to bow. I gave him longer arrows that were stiff enough to match his strongest bow that he draws longer than his lighter longbow. They would not fly out of his longer longbow. He broke a couple, they were long enough that I could put blunts on them, but he would be drawing the point onto the bow. To my surprize he found his groove and was shooting those shortened blunts out of his lighter longbow, they should of required a much lighter spined shaft. However, they were flying perfect.  He tried the longer broadheads, that were now just the right length and they flew good as well. The math says that the super short net length arrows were 10 pounds spine stiffer, but they flew exactly like the broadheads.

[Jim Wright]

If you are starting with a 30" arrow at your 27.5" draw you have more latitude for final tuning, you can shorten the shaft 1/4" at a time to stiffen or add point weight to soften spine. Shooting 47-48lbs. at your 27.5" draw, I suspect you will end up shorter than 30" with 50-55# spine shafts even with 125 gr. points and Dacron.

[Surewood Steve]

Lucas, if you called me and gave me your set-up I would recommend 55-60 with the 125 gr. point, but if you went up to 160 or more on point weight then the 60-65 may fly better.  The idea of leaving your shafts full length and cutting back 1/2" at a time has some merits.  Steve

[Wetfeet]

3rivers also sells a jig that allignes a 1/8 drill bit so you can insert a nail or even heavier brass rod into the shaft. Certainly a cheaper way to go in the long run than using woodieweights. And gives you the flexibility to use whatever FP or BH you want.

[SuperK]

With woodies, I like to paper tune them.  Lots of info about how to do it. Use the search "engine" if you haven't ever done it before.  Surewood shafts sells tuning kits so you don't buy a lot of the wrong spine.  Wood is a lot "easier" to tune than carbon, in my experience.  Have fun and enjoy!

[SCATTERSHOT]

Before you buy your shafts, is there any chance you could try a few shafts in each spine? Suppliers sometimes sell "try packs" in different spines so you can experiment and determine which spine flies best for you.

That cut-to-center riser gives you a lot of flexibility in tuning, too.

[snag]

Originally posted by Surewood Steve:
Lucas, if you called me and gave me your set-up I would recommend 55-60 with the 125 gr. point, but if you went up to 160 or more on point weight then the 60-65 may fly better.  The idea of leaving your shafts full length and cutting back 1/2" at a time has some merits.  Steve

If you'd like a couple of test arrows just let me know.