Axis vs FMJ

[happy1]

Which shaft do you like the best the Axis or FMJ and why? Thinking on the Axis because they are cheaper and come with the 50/75 break off brass insert.

[Mike Vines]

This will answer you question...

  http://tradgang.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=060165;p=1#000013

To buy something based solely on it being "cheaper", is going to cost you tripple (or more) in the long run.  Take that bit of advice from a guy that is cheaper than a Chinese toy when it comes to most everyday things in life, but not my hunting equipment.  We not only owe it to ourselves, but to the animals we persue.

[Bowwild]

I have a dozen FMJs on stand-by that I've never cut yet (except one for a "rain arrow" on a special hunt that didn't happen...yet,.

The thread Mike posted above got me rethinking the FMJ.  I've been extremely happy, not a single complaint, with the Axis Traditional. The MFX before that.

One thing I know I'd like about the FMJ is the ease of replacing damaging fletching.  I have a HECK of a time getting damaged fletching off carbon shafts without damaging the shaft. In fact, I'm so bad at it that I don't even try, I just retire the arrow.  When I become less ignorant I will have a few carbon arrows to repair.

[bigbadjon]

I prefer fmjs because they have been straighter and more consistent in my experience. That said I have never had a low quality Easton product, the more you pay generally is based on tolerances that you expect.

[stalkin4elk]

I must be the exception because I did not like the FMJs with EFOC. They bend/dent on angled impacts or crack the carbon inside the aluminum where you can't see it. They will easily break behind the insert with 100gr adapter and 300gr pt. on angled impacts. Some mushrooming on straight impacts and yes they were properly cleaned and glued.
At least with standard carbons you can see fractures and they are less expensive. Of course you can foot anything...
A couple I have remaining are demoted for shots that are most certain to lose the arrow.
Most guys give rave reviews for the FMJs.

[BigJim]

I have had nearly the same experience shooting in to steel plates (not on purpose) using a CX heritage and 85# bow. Drilled the plate and arrow bounced half way back to me (shots at 18 yards) smashed and bent the 200 g field pt. Shot the same arrow again into nearly the same spot and it fell straight down. The insert was pushed about 1/2" back into the shaft.
I purchase directly from Easton, Carbon Express and Gold tip and sell all their products. I'm not saying that the fmj's are no good, just twice the price and yes, they can be bent.

BigJim

[oldbohntr]

Bowwild: a razor blade will peel the fletches right off and not damage the aluminum.  

If anyone has mentioned the slick shaft surface of the FMJ, I missed it.  The high tech pro that sold me my first FMJs told me the surface is so slick that I would either need to wrap, dip, or sand it to get the fletching to stick. That was good advice, but I've not lost too many when careful about the cleaning and gluing process. Never lost any when fletching over wraps.  Recently I bought a couple dozen  used FMJs that were fletched over bare shafts, and I thought "this is great, he uses exactly the feather configuration I do!(4", 4 fletch, 60-120 degrees, helical)."  Not so....virtually all those feathers peeled right off after a few shots!

I kinda think this is an advantage....9/32" diameter and a really slick surfact, good mass weight, and toughness is a hard combination to beat.  However, you guys imply they can not be damaged: not so.  I hit some stuff I wasn't supposed to in Africa....that aluminum skin can shatter near the end on a hard hit against rock, etc.  It seems a bit more brittle than the alloy used in Easton aluminums.  

I've got a boatload of arrows of every material, but if I lost them all tomorrow, I'd simply go out and buy FMJs, and consider it done.

[Canadian Idle]

In my experience, the FMJ's are straighter, easier to pull out and easier to fletch. BUT, they are more expensive and they will stay bent because of the aluminum exterior. Both the FMJ's and the Axis have the HIT system and if they are shot against something hard, the insert WILL be pushed back, usually resulting in a flared or split shaft. What I do now, is I just buy the Axis {they are straight enough, a couple thou runout} and foot them with Easton aluminum 1916's about 2" long, they fit perfect. This way you have a small dia. shaft and you still have an insert with a shoulder on it. Install the footings with "JB" weld, but clean everything first with 99% alcohol. Before installing the footings, I put them in my drill press and file, then emery a slight taper on the back end and touch up the shoulder of the footing to make sure it is smooth to the outside of the aluminum footing. when you install the footing be sure it's insert is seated against the end of the arrow shaft so everything is solid. Anyway....That's what I do, hope it helps,.....Lloyd

[happy1]

Thanks for the information!  

[Easykeeper]

I haven't used FMJs, but have been using ACCs for many years now and prefer them to the AXIS or MFX shafts I have (basically the same shaft as far as I can tell).

For me it comes down to the insert and nocks, but especially the insert.  I know many like them but I hate the HIT system.  Give me the usual insert with a shoulder that butts up against the shaft any day over the internal system.  I also like the g-nock.  I shoot split finger the smaller the nock the better for me.

[Iowabowhunter]

I had issues with the FMJ using regular glue. I took the advice of Steve-O and used JB Weld for the insert=bombproof. There is no way the insert will get pushed back into the shaft when using the JB Weld, strongest bond out there. If you would want to foot the FMJ using JB Weld for the footing and insert, that would be one very very tough shaft.

[ALDO]

I have stocked up on the 500 axis shafts.  Been shooting them for easily 6 years now.  300gr up front 100gr brass 200gr razorcap. It has been a great hunting shaft, durable good passthroughs.  I spray the back end and fletch with the fletch tape.  I have found lost 3D arrows a year later with the fletch still intact.  No complaints here on axis.  
ALDO

[Bowwild]

While I haven't asked the folks at Easton/Beman the Axis Trad has a tougher finish than the MFX.  I loved the MFX but often chipped pieces of the finish off when shooting groups.  

Shooting groups with the new Axis trad I have yet to chip a single one. I thought they were the same because they certainly look the same. Something must be different though?

Of course this is all academic because, except for old stock in private hands, the MFX is no longer available.