Duco eating paint??

[slim_grim]

I've got some ICS Carbon Hunters that I want to paint before fletching to make them a little easier to find. I picked up some Rust-oleum gloss protective enamel and automobile primer. I scuffed the arrows with 400 grit sandpaper and cleaned them up with alcohol. A few hours later I put on a coat of primer, then a couple coats of enamel. I allowed plenty of time between coats per the paint's instructions. I fletched the arrows and, when I dabbed Duco on the feather tips, the paint bubbled.

 

What gives? Also, how do you guys get a clean line where the paint ends? Thanks guys.

[lpcjon2]

I have had Duco do that to some types of paint as well. Not sure if the enamel has cured enough or you have to use a different type of paint or primer(a non spray can type of primer may work better and allow it bond better) . Painting carbons and getting even the primer to bond is not easy.

  Remember the edge for the paint line will always have a lip because you are building up paint on top of a surface that will not allow it to soak in.Do very light coats and allow each coat to dry 3-4 hrs. before the next coat. them use a sealer over the paint(a wiper on poly should work).

  You can use auto pin striping to give your arrows a little more visibility or just some reflective tape at the nock end. You can also use Fletchtite glue for the feathers.

[karrow]

duco will do that it will soften paint and plastic nocks as well id use super glue original

[Drewster]

I've had good luck with Rustoleum enamel over carbon with no primer.  I usually crest my arrows so top them with two coats of Minwax Poly Wipe-On.  The DUCO does bite into the finish some, but that's what gives the fletchings really good adhesion.  Don't have ANY problems with fletchings coming off.

[Cookus]

I've never had Duco have adverse effects with Rustoleum myself (That's all I use these days!)... I'll watch this one for sure!  By the way, how long did the Rustoleum "cure" before you tried to fletch?

[slim_grim]

Thanks for all the responses guys. The Rustoleum cured for right at 24 hours. It's been raining a lot here, and I think the humidity may have slowed the curing. I could probably stand to use a little less Duco as well. I'll pick up some Minwax and give it another go in the morning.

[JamesV]

Spray your shafts with Bulldog adhesive ppromoter

[Flying Dutchman]

24 hours is very little time, I prefer a week at least. I had the same problem when using primer for synthetics/ metal the first layer. I used this for my carbon arrows. I finished it with two layers of normal enamel paint, but no matter what glue I used, the glue kept melting the paint away. It almost drove me crazy. I think it is caused by the anti corrosion component in primers for synthetic/metal.
In the end I used fletching tape, and that worked out perfect. No issues at all, no melting and the tape holds the fletching rock- solid!

For getting a clean line, I use paper painting tape. But....... It is critical when you take the tape off. When the paint is fully dried, you damage the clean line when removing it. When using paper tape, little pieces of the tape stay on the shaft, disturbing a clean line. The paint should be fluid, but not dripping anymore. So let's say halve dry        
Now the tape comes much more easy off.
After removing the tape, let the shafts dry vertical, nock up. The not complete dried paint will gow down a little bit, camouflating not so clean lines. Once you got the hang of it, it's easy...

[slim_grim]

Thanks a lot Dutchman. Makes sense about the primer. It seems like the glue should never get down to the primer.  

[Kevin Lawler]

I always liked Duco because it melted poly and created a really good bond. I used it exclusively when making wooden arrows. I'm sure it would melt some paint. You might consider painting the crown with some clear water based poly which would protect the paint and give something for the Duco to bond to.

[Flying Dutchman]

Originally posted by slim_grim:
Thanks a lot Dutchman. Makes sense about the primer. It seems like the glue should never get down to the primer.        

It seems to me that the primer reacts with the following layers of the enemal paint. I never had issues with my wooden arrows, where I use a wood primer. When I started with carbons, and used a primer for synthetic/metal, the problems started. I add two layers of enemal paint over the primer, but I get ill effects with gluing. The glue eating the paint. When using the same enamal on my woodies and a first layer of wood primer, I have no issues at all with the same glue. So I concluded it must be the primer and probably the anti corrosion component.

As far as the clean line concerns; be sure to flip over a small corner of the tape before you put it on the shaft. In such a way that the sides with the glue stick together. Now you have a small corner that won't stick. This allows you to remove the tape far more easily, because that corner isn't glued to the shaft. That flipped over corner should be on the side were no paint is. It's a little bit more work, but it pays back when you experience how easy it is to remove the tape, lifting the not sticking together flipped over corner.

[slim_grim]

I've painted a few arrows, without primer, and I'm gonna let it cure for a couple more days. If that doesn't do the trick I'll pick up some clear. Thanks again guys.

[Flying Dutchman]

Painting without primer will make it wear pretty fast.

[Tim Finley]

Try a wrap it looks better and is easier to get off . One Stringer can make you any design you want !!