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Author Topic: Tuning  (Read 273 times)

Offline Scattergun2570

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Tuning
« on: January 18, 2014, 08:52:00 PM »
I was told we need to watch the knock as the arrow flies to the target to determine whether its weak or stiff. So,if the arrows nock is tailing to the right during flight,what does this mean?

Offline Bowwild

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Re: Tuning
« Reply #1 on: January 18, 2014, 09:17:00 PM »
Assuming  your arrows are straight and if you are RH and the arrow is clearing the sight window cleanly (not bouncing off the sideplate), your arrow is likely too stiffly spined. I'm a lefty so everything is backwards for me.

However, eye-balling flight a very coarse way of checking tune. Some can eyeball very well to at least get close. Often times the "Well Behind the Archer" coaching position(10-15 feet behind) is useful in watching arrow flight. This helps the observer see around the shooter.

Lots of great threads here about tuning with paper, broadheads, bare shaft, etc.

A quick check could be helpful if you can put on a lighter field point to stiffen the dynamic spine of the arrow.

Dave is right below. I had "too light" before editing. I double-checked and Damascus Dave got it. Sorry, I'd rather be wrong than confuse you.

Offline damascusdave

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Re: Tuning
« Reply #2 on: January 18, 2014, 09:21:00 PM »
For a right handed shooter too stiff...for a lefty too weak...remind us what you are shooting please

DDave
I set out a while ago to reduce my herd of 40 bows...And I am finally down to 42

Offline JRY309

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Re: Tuning
« Reply #3 on: January 18, 2014, 11:22:00 PM »
I agree with both of them but also note if shooting carbons arrows can sometimes give you a false reading.Depending on spine,length,riser cut and other factors.

Offline damascusdave

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Re: Tuning
« Reply #4 on: January 18, 2014, 11:57:00 PM »
I shoot both right and left handed all the time in my basement right now...I live alone, other than the cat that usually comes to watch me shoot, so I can get away with this...I  have about a dozen bows ready to go and a bunch of arrows...bow weights at my draw length vary from 45 pounds to over 65 pounds with a mixture of longbows and recurves...the arrows vary from 2317 to 500 spine carbon...I shoot into my Rhinehart Rhinoblock (and the cement wall behind it a couple of times)...the only reason I can remember which way an overly stiff arrow flies is that when I am feeling lazy about pulling arrows I shoot the 2317's out of light draw weight bows...fat aluminum arrows flying at an angle do not penetrate too far

DDave
I set out a while ago to reduce my herd of 40 bows...And I am finally down to 42

Offline Scattergun2570

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Re: Tuning
« Reply #5 on: January 19, 2014, 03:04:00 AM »
Quote
Originally posted by damascusdave:
For a right handed shooter too stiff...for a lefty too weak...remind us what you are shooting please

DDave
Right Handed 45lb Martin Savannah cut to center. 8 strand FF string..
Legacy 1916 29 1/2" with 145 up front.

Offline damascusdave

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Re: Tuning
« Reply #6 on: January 19, 2014, 12:59:00 PM »
I would have to think there is something else going on to have that combo appear stiff...tough to diagnose without being there...it could be a form issue

DDave
I set out a while ago to reduce my herd of 40 bows...And I am finally down to 42

Offline Easykeeper

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Re: Tuning
« Reply #7 on: January 19, 2014, 04:14:00 PM »
I find it easier to tune by comparing the impact point of bare shafts with fletched.  I have a hard time seeing the nock or orientation of the shaft unless it's significantly off.  I also tend to lift my head to "look" for the nock if I need to see it, bad for form and follow through.  Comparing groups is much easier for me.

This is a pretty good procedure...   ACS bare shaft tuning

Offline Bjorn

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Re: Tuning
« Reply #8 on: January 19, 2014, 04:27:00 PM »
I don't even try to watch my arrows in flight they are too fast and I don't want to move the bow too early. Anything I need to see is point of impact and nock orientation.

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