KME/Grizzly sharpening - just not getting it!

[Karl61]

I have a KME sharpener and a batch of 160g grizzlies.  With the KME, I run the broad head across a Nicholson file to set the bevel.  (Use the Sharpee trick) Then some time on a diamond stone.  Then on four different sheets of wet/dry sandpaper, increasingly more fine.  I get a mirror finish and the edge feels pretty sharp but it hardly cuts hair at all.  I know I'm trying to kill deer/hogs not give them a shave but I think this should work better.  I even strop them at the end but no luck.  I use a Spyderco sharpener on my STOS heads and I really could shave with them.  

Any advice?  I'm ready to give up on the whole single bevel thing!!  And I hate to give up!

[Austin Brown]

Doesn't matter how much polishing/stropping you do if you don't raise a burr down the length of the blade with your file or coursest stone.  Don't give up they will get nasty, hair popping, skin grabbing sharp once you get the hang of it.  All I use is a big Nicholson file clamped to a bench or board and a croc stick and get them nasty sharp.  There are some good videos on the how to forum of different techniques, but the main thing is raising the burr and nocking it off.

PM Sharpster. Ron will get it figured out for you. He is just good folk and sells a GREAT product!

Bisch

[wingnut]

They need to pop hair after the course stone stage.  In my opinion your moving on to polishing too soon.

Mike

[Karl61]

Mike, I think you may be right.  I get all the Sharpee rubbed off and immediately go to finer surfaces.  Probably should stay the course (ahem) a bit longer.

[Austin Brown]

Originally posted by Karl61:
Mike, I think you may be right.  I get all the Sharpee rubbed off and immediately go to finer surfaces.  Probably should stay the course (ahem) a bit longer.

Definitely, once the sharpie is off keep at it until you can feel a defined burr when you run your finger from non-bevel side toward the bevel side.  Then you should be able to lightly drag the non bevel side over your stone and nock the burr off.  I can literally see a thin ribbon of steel come off when I drag the non beveled side.  That is when it's starting to get really sharp.

[jjwaldman]

More than likely one of two things are happening

1.  You never actually created a burr, which means you are a polishing a dull head.
2.  You never took the burr off.

Don't leave that course stone until you can feel a burr running the entire length of the broadhead. Once you get the burr you have done the lions share of the work.  

I also second the call to Ron.  He is the best!

Better sharpeners can correct me if I am wrong.

[KentuckyTJ]

Just sharpend another six brand new ones the other night. Yeah, raise a burr on the courses stone you have first like all are saying by ONLY dragging backwards. If you push it forward like you are trying to slice a sliver off the stone you will never raise the crucial burr on the back side. When you can feel a raised burr on the flat side of the edge then you can begin to break that off with a few backward strokes on the flat side then turn over and over with backward strokes only.

When the burr comes off then some light forward strokes. Getting finer and finer and lighter and lighter. Doesn't take long. Most the work is with the course stones.

[longstiks]

All good advise but the best is what Bisch said. Call Ron!! He is a great guy and won't be happy till you get it right. Best customer service I ever ran into.
Denny

[Sharpster]

Originally posted by jjwaldman:
More than likely one of two things are happening

1.  You never actually created a burr, which means you are a polishing a dull head.
2.  You never took the burr off.

Don't leave that course stone until you can feel a burr running the entire length of the broadhead. Once you get the burr you have done the lions share of the work.  

Better sharpeners can correct me if I am wrong.

Couldn't have worded it any better myself!    Like most of the excellent advice above, I'm guessing it's #1.

When sharpening any type of blade, the coarsest stone (or file) is the most critical one. ...and when in doubt, go coarser! It's the coarsest grit that changes the shape of the cutting edge from a rounded, dull "U" shape back to a sharp "V" shape. We may only be talking about removing a few thousandths of material to accomplish this, but it's a few thousandths of hardened steel and medium or fine grits just can't do that.

Pretend your coarsest stone is the only one you have and get the blade very sharp using only that. Then the finer grits can quickly refine the edge to something much more frightening. Let us know how you make out and don't hesitate to call me if you need any help. Thanks!

Ron

[basket-rack'89]

Does everyone pull the broadhead backwards like Kentucky TJ to form the burr then use forward strokes to finish off?  I've always used forward strokes, pushing the broadhead into the stone, but I have not sharpened single bevels... if that makes a difference.

[Karl61]

Sigh, just tried a third Grizzly with similar results…very shiny but no hair shaving.  Put everything aside but my coarse stone and single cut file.  Thought I was getting a burr up but nada.  Shiny though but my leg is as hairy as before.  Well, I scratched up some dry skin but the hairs stayed put.  Exfoliating sharp I call it.  Ron, you'll be getting a call as soon as I can.  I don't accept defeat well! Thanks to everyone who gave their advice.