Arrow help for a 40# longbow

[KyStickbow]

Hi guys....I am switching from shooting right handed to left handed...and just picked up a left hand 40#@28 Bear Montana from Big Jim to start the process. Just wanted some opinions on which arrow might be best for this setup. I was thinking a easton 1916....or would i be better of going with an 1816? My draw length is about 26".....so I am guessing I will be around 35#. Dont have intent on hunting with this bow...just using the lightweight setup to start the change over. Thanks for the help.

[Hermon]

At that draw length I would be inclined to suggest the 1816's.  I shoot 1916's out of my 45-47# bows drawing 28".

1816 with 145 screw in, 27" bop.

[oldbohntr]

I agree.  Heart surgery has put me into a 40# recurve to work my way back.  It's got a deeper sight window than a longbow, and a 1916 or CX75 will work ok.  I think an 1816 would too, and would be more necessary out of a longbow of the same weight.

[azhunter]

If you decide to go with carbons get some 1535 GT blems from Big Jim.

[Red Beastmaster]

Originally posted by Hermon:
At that draw length I would be inclined to suggest the 1816's.  I shoot 1916's out of my 45-47# bows drawing 28".

Hermon is right. 1816's all day long. I use them on my 40#ish longbows and 1916's on my 45-47# bows.

[Mojostick]

I have a lot of light weight bows and no arrow is more universal than the Grizzlystik Sitka. I've spent a lot of money playing around with arrows for 30-45lb bows and the Grizzlystik Sitka is usually what shoots best out of any particular bow in those weights.

[KyStickbow]

Thanks for the replys guys. Someone mentioned the goldtip 1535's....could i get away with this arrow? I dont really have much experience with carbons...but i could shoot that arrow with the higher weight i am hopefully gonna work up to for hunting season as well. Even though i wont be hunting with the montana i still want it to have decent cast...or would i have to front load the 1535 so much that that wouldnt be possible. Thanks

[Hermon]

I find my 1916's with 125 grain points and my 1535's with 175 grain points to tune about the same for me.

[JamesKerr]

I would go with the 1816 or if your willing to try carbons take a look at the arrow dynamics traditional light shaft.

[azhunter]

You will not have to load the front that much on the GT 1535's. One of my longbows is 44# and maybe a pound less at my draw and I shoot the 1535's and they are 29" long with a 150 head and standard insert. The fletched and bare shaft shoot exactly the same at 20 yards.

[Hermon]

How much you have to front load the 1535's will most likely depend on the centershot of the bow.

[bigiron]

1816s all day..............

[Keb]

I'm shooting 40lb toelke whip long bow at my 27 " draw, easton axis 600 spine 28.5, 60 grain brass, 145 tip = 195 up front.

Fly like a dart.

[Stinger]

I shoot a Leon Stewart Slammer 1 piece that is marked 42# at 28" and I have a 27" draw.  I shoot 1535 GT Trads at full length with that set up and they fly very well.

[kagross]

Originally posted by Keb:
I'm shooting 40lb toelke whip long bow at my 27 " draw, easton axis 600 spine 28.5, 60 grain brass, 145 tip = 195 up front.

Fly like a dart.

Isn't that 205 up front?

[Steelman]

Originally posted by Keb:
I'm shooting 40lb toelke whip long bow at my 27 " draw, easton axis 600 spine 28.5, 60 grain brass, 145 tip = 195 up front.

Fly like a dart.

+1 on the 600s. I have the same bow, same weight and I also got it from Big jim. 600s with 125 points shot like darts. my draw is 28 3/4". I hope this helps.

[PICKNGRIN]

I would say the 1816's would be best, but leave them at least 28" long.

[Keb]

I made mistake I have 50 grain inserts, loving them axis trad shafts, I'm a wood man, but they are unreal.

Acetone took the label of and crested them with sharpies as close as I can get.

I never tinkered with weight up front, but I'm a believer my 25 and 30 yard groups are tighter than ever.