Changing shooting style and the effects on arrow flight

[Spudnik]

So, I'm fairly new to the whole traditional thing and have been shooting 3-under since I began. I recently bought an old Bear Grizzly recurve and was having some issues with arrow flight... I tried a number of different arrows and no such luck.

Then, a guy at the local shop here suggested that I try shooting split finger instead of 3-under, and the difference was unbelievable. The very same arrows that I was shooting (carbon, 500 spine, 30.5", 100 grain field points) were now flying as straight as you could imagine. With my draw length (29.75") and the draw weight at that length (60lbs.), these are the arrows that were supposed to fly best according to same fancy calculating software the guy had at the shop. And after the change to split-finger, they sure as heck did fly great.

So, I guess I have a small issue... I have been shooting 3-under and would probably like to continue to do so if at all possible. I tried messing with the brace height and height of the knocking point to see if I could get the arrows to fly straight - no dice. I put the brace height at 8" and knocking point 1/2" up and shoot split finger - arrows fly like a dream. I am obviously not opposed to switching to split finger if it's the only option that I have to shoot this bow, but I do really like the anchor point I've grown accustomed to when shooting 3-under.

Thoughts?

[Rob DiStefano]

imho, it's easier to torque the string with a 3fingers under release.  try 2fingers under instead and let the middle finger hold less of the drawn bow's weight while the pointer finger becomes your "release aid" ... the ring finger goes along for the ride, at best.  

also, with 3fu it's the pointer finger that takes the lion's share of the holding weight and it's the middle finger that takes the load when shooting split finger.  that may be a reason for your 3fu release issues ... that and FORM.  how you grip the string can affect how you draw and hold and release.

[Jack Hoyt 75]

I prefer split finger and a tab myself.  You could get a new bow that is tillerred for 3 under, try out a longbow or a hybrid R/D longbow, or keep tuning your Grizzly till you get it right.

You may find what you are looking for in a newer, longer bow?  Just a thought, I will let the experts on this site give more technical advise.

Montana has some great bowyers like Toelke, Robertson, Windauer, Neil Jacobson, etc.  I bet they coul give some advise also.  Welcome to Tradgang!

[Mr. fingers]

In my opinion at least my paper tuning result show that 3 under requires a little stiffer spine than split. With my set up now I can get nice bullet holes through paper and nice straight arrow,flight on the range.
When I switch to 3 under I get tail left and high through paper I can get rid of the tail high by raising my nock point . But the tail left (weak reaction) I can't tune out unless I go to lighter head or shorten up my shaft.
Those arrows seem on the weak side for a 60lb.bow.
Try a stiffer arrow set up

I switched from 3 under to split last yr and I like it better I get better arrow flight and my bows,are quieter, it's faster to hook up and I have more control of the arrow on the string. Try it for a few weeks .

[Spudnik]

The bow is 53lbs. at 28" but I'm pulling right around 59-60 lbs. at my length according to the scale at the shop I've been going to. I thought the shaky arrow flight had to do with the spine of the arrows too, which is why I shot a bunch of different arrows before the guy suggested changing the way I shoot.

I've been shooting split now for about 4 days since he suggested it and have been shooting just fine. Like I said, the arrow flight is day-and-night. After reading Rob's post, I went outside and shot a few arrows using 2 under and 3 under while focusing on trying to use my index finger to hold the majority of the weight - no go. Arrow flight was all over the place again.

It feels to me that when I shoot 3 under, my middle finger still does the lion's share of the work, which is probably the issue. On my right hand, my index finger is a full 3/4" shorter than my middle finger, which is something I would've figured that an old girlfriend might have told me at some point but I probably would've never noticed had this issue with shooting not arisen.

I suppose I'm a split finger shooter now, and that's probably all there is to it.

[Rob DiStefano]

whatever finger is under the nock MUST take the lion's share of the load. there are no exceptions.  failure to do it this way will lead to exactly what yer experiencing.

i will add, there are split finger shooters who are actually 2fu shooters - the top pointer finger barely kisses the string serving, the middle finger does all the work and the ring finger gets 10-20% of the load.

lotta ways to skin this cat, find out what's most consistent for you, as consistency breeds accuracy.