Arrows with the heaviest gpi, but with 600 spine?

[alex321]

Thanks PD,

I don't mind getting 150 grain tips.

What spine arrow would you suggest, keeping in mind the required weight.

Thanks
ALex

[Flying Dogg]

As previously mentioned Carbon Express Heritage 75 are the heaviest carbon shaft in the 600 spine area and will shoot very well if left at 28" long or longer.

[Prairie Drifter]

I think you'll have to leave the arrows longer than 26". It's still gonna be tough, getting the weight you want. Lighter spined shafts can only use nib points, which leaves the arrows too light, and heavier spined arrows get way above the weight you want when paired w/ points heavy enough to make them spine right for your bow.

[alex321]

Thank you...

So it seems that my requirements are not reasonable...Atleast for carbons.  I have ordered them now and will see how they bare shaft.

I guess the reality is to keep using wood in 30/25 spine and learn how to fix them...  

In my next order I shall try Carbon Express Heritage 75

Thanks everyone for your advice.... I thought I was being a fool with the trouble I was having... It seems not..

Alex

[Owlmagnet]

Alex, I may not understand your requirement correctly, but if you need "max grains per inch" on a fairly light bow, why not just use an appropriately spined shaft of ash or hickory? They are a LOT harder to break than cedar or spruce, give you a plenty-heavy finished arrow, and you are probably already all set up to make wooden arrows, anyway....

I apologize if I've completely missed the point of your post.

[alex321]

Dear Owlmagnet,

Thank you for your considered reply.

I basically lost my patiece with woode arrows after buying another 6 wooden arrows (30-35 spine)and breaking 5 in two weeks.  This was the final straw and I was determined to buy some carbon arrows which are wood replacements.  The main problem has been finding any with both the high weight and a soft enough spine.

My Beman Hunter Junior arrived today and they seem a good starting point.

However, the Easton Apollo arrived too and these are definitely not a wood replacement arrow.  They are incredibly thin.  This is a shame, as I had high hopes for them.

I have only beign doiig archery for 6 months and do not have any arrow making or fixing equipmet.  I was hoping to avoid that, but it looks like I might have to go back to wood, becuase of the light draw weight ad short draw that I have.

I shall look at Ash and Hickory, as spruce and cedar were not great.

Thanks
ALex

[Bladepeek]

"However, the Easton Apollo arrived too and these are definitely not a wood replacement arrow. They are incredibly thin. This is a shame, as I had high hopes for them."

I don't see why this is automatically a bad thing. Being of smaller diameter, they will rest closer to center, allowing a slightly stiffer dynamic spine for the same bow. I think if you want to try carbons, you will have to throw away all of your wood arrow conceptions and learn to "think carbon".

Carbons are far more sensitive to length than woodies and if you leave them a little longer than you would normally, I think you will find them quite adaptable without going to boat anchor weight points. The closer to center; the less sensitive they will be.

[alex321]

The Beman hunter Junior come with Vanes....

They hurt abit, shooting off hand or is it just me?

[hvyhitter]

Try easton 1820s that they use for schools.........592 deflection and about 350gr for 29" shaft. Also pretty inexpensive compared to carbons...............

[Owlmagnet]

Alex, my thanks for your gracious reply. I don't know very much about carbon and aluminum shafts, although I have used them from time to time. That said, you really have to remove the plastic vanes off your arrows and fletch them with feathers if you are going to shoot them off of your hand. No, it isnt just you! That would hurt anyone.... Most traditional archers would not shoot plastic vanes off of an arrow shelf, either. A raised arrow rest, perhaps, but not the shelf, or hand.

I have shot a lot of spruce and cedar--and I can be pretty tough on shafts, as well. I shoot a lot of ash. They are heavier, but they are much more difficult to destroy. Since your bow is very light, the earlier suggestion to try Douglas Fir is a good one. They tend to be a bit lighter than ash, and generally require less effort to keep them straight.

I noticed that you live in Germany. Have you tried a European wood like "Norway Pine"? I've had pretty good luck with that wood, and noticed it was quite popular at some 3-D shoots I attended in your country, (back when I was the "token American" member of the Sindelfingen Feldsbogen Scheutzen, many years ago).

Good luck to you. Don't get discouraged. It will all sort out. Weidmann's heil!  (Bob Wilson)

[Bladepeek]

Hey Bob, your talking about my old stomping grounds too. Couple of the many places I lived in Germany were Weil im Schoenbuch and Boeblingen. Was a member of the Weil im Schoenbuch Scheutzenverein for many years, but shot pistol back then instead of bow. Got my first German hunting license back in 1971        

Did you work at Patch Barracks by any chance?

Ron

[KentuckyTJ]

Originally posted by Prairie Drifter:
Carbon express heritage 90's weigh 9.7gpi and spine .598

Agreed on the CE 90's.

I shoot them and they are fantastic from my 50lb bows. Mine are 29" long.

[alex321]

Originally posted by Owlmagnet:
Alex, my thanks for your gracious reply. I don't know very much about carbon and aluminum shafts, although I have used them from time to time. That said, you really have to remove the plastic vanes off your arrows and fletch them with feathers if you are going to shoot them off of your hand. No, it isnt just you! That would hurt anyone.... Most traditional archers would not shoot plastic vanes off of an arrow shelf, either. A raised arrow rest, perhaps, but not the shelf, or hand.

I have shot a lot of spruce and cedar--and I can be pretty tough on shafts, as well. I shoot a lot of ash. They are heavier, but they are much more difficult to destroy. Since your bow is very light, the earlier suggestion to try Douglas Fir is a good one. They tend to be a bit lighter than ash, and generally require less effort to keep them straight.

I noticed that you live in Germany. Have you tried a European wood like "Norway Pine"? I've had pretty good luck with that wood, and noticed it was quite popular at some 3-D shoots I attended in your country, (back when I was the "token American" member of the Sindelfingen Feldsbogen Scheutzen, many years ago).

Good luck to you. Don't get discouraged. It will all sort out. Weidmann's heil!  (Bob Wilson)

Dear Bob,

Thank you, there is lots of information there!

I think I must remove the rubber vanes so will have to buy a fletcher.  The EZ fletcher looks to be a good match to my attention span.     Though having trouble finding any in Europe. Since I will the have a fletcher, I guess I may aswell start making my own arrows.

On your suggestion, I have tried looking for Ash here, but no real luck.  I will try Douglas Fir and the Norway spruce.

It is interesting to hear that you have been in Germany. However,I don't think you will have been stationed where I live, unless you worked for the other sides.      I am not far from Point Alpha.

Cheers
Alex

[Owlmagnet]

Alex, I promise you will seldom regret the ability to craft your own arrows. I think you will like the Norway spruce.  

No, I doubt that I was ever in your part of the country, but I doubt, also, that I was the only American who was deeply moved, the day the wall came down....

I never tried the EZ fletcher. I am still using a bitzenberger I purchased in 1973. (I doubt I will ever wear it out. If you ever get one, I recommend you take it apart for cleaning and lubrication at LEAST once, every 25 years!)

Do you have friends who are traditional archers? If you can find some, I would not be surprised if one would not be happy to help you get started making your own arrows. Someday, you will teach a newcomer to the sport, the same thing. That is how it works!

Best of luck,
Bob

[Paul_R]

I had an EZ Fletch and hated it, flimsy and sloppy. And it's nearly impossible to do just one fletch as is sometimes required, especially when you're first learning.

[Owlmagnet]

Bladepeek, Yup! I lived at Patch and shot a ton of arrows on a course just outside Panzer Kaserne. My German archery buddies were hardcore archers, if not hunters. When one asked me if bows and arrows were "really" effective on game, I took'em home and we watched, "Bowhunting October Whitetails", among others. Man, did they get pumped! (One guy put down his compound and ordered a Black Widow!)

I got my hunting license in the mid-90's and was fortunate enough to enjoy quite a bit of hunting, (with a rifle, of course). Customs and traditions were different, but it was taken very seriously, and I respected their approach--particularly about the way they deeply repected the animal, itself. Hunting "correctly" was not a means to an end, it was an end in itself. At the end of my first season, I was inducted into an eight-hundred year-old Guild of Hunters, another amazing cultural ritual I was deeply honored to be a part of.

Thanks for evoking some fond memories....

[Bladepeek]

Owlmagnet, my pleasure. It took me back through some fond memories too. I don't want to hijack this thread too badly, so I will e-mail you some pics that may bring back some more memories.

Ron

[alex321]

Originally posted by Bladepeek:
Owlmagnet, my pleasure. It took me back through some fond memories too. I don't want to hijack this thread too badly, so I will e-mail you some pics that may bring back some more memories.

Ron

Its no problem, I have all the answers I need from the thread and its now taken an interesting direction..Post them here by all means

Cheers
Alex