Point Weight

[LongbowArcher1987]

Hi all! Just wanted to run a question by you guys about point weight. I have recently fletched some old Gamegetter 400 aluminum arrows and was wondering how much point weight I should have upfront so they fly straight? It is also worth mentioning that I have 2 inch shield cut feathers on them. Should  I have more than 125 grain points up front? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

There is no way to answer your question without more information. What is your bow specs, including center cut? What is your actual draw weight at your actual draw length?

Bisch

[LongbowArcher1987]

Bear 76er. 50# draw weight. My draw length is 27 1/2 inches.So I guess draw weight more like 47 or 48#. Might just fletch with some 5 inch shield cut feathers but I just wanted to know if I could possibly switch up to a higher weight tip and save me the hassle.Again any help is appreciated. Please and thank you:)

[dhermon85]

Arrow length?

[LongbowArcher1987]

28 inches

[dhermon85]

I would guess yes, more tip weight.
If arrows fly tail right-add weight. (Right hand shooter)

[LongbowArcher1987]

Ok. Thank you very much.

[Biathlonman]

I'm gonna bet you're going to need a whole bunch of weight on the front to make those work. I'd start with 200 grains and see how it looks.

[dhermon85]

Originally posted by Biathlonman:
I'm gonna bet you're going to need a whole bunch of weight on the front to make those work. I'd start with 200 grains and see how it looks.

Maybe more...

[Prairie Drifter]

you need a 1916.

[riverrat 2]

Or a 2016. If you use a 2016 you can have the advantage of a push-in nock versus a glue-on style that the 1916 uses. You also can have the 5/16ths bushing so standard points will fit proper. The arrows GPI is almost the same (10.0 versus 10.6 per inch.) and the spine difference you can adjust by leaving a 2016 at 29" long,and have a .145-.175 tip. I bet that would be pretty close to perfect.  rat'

[LongbowArcher1987]

Thanks for all the input guys. I think I'll tinker with it using some good ideas here. Appreciate it.

[jhk1]

Agree with the guys above recommending a lighter-spine shaft than the GG 400.  The GG 400s are a 2117 shaft-- that seems too stiff for a 47#-48# recurve, unless the shafts are left pretty long.  As a point of reference, I just picked up a Bear 76er 45# (feels slightly lighter than that, but haven't scaled it) for bowfishing and just to have a light-draw "packable" bow to knock around with.  I draw 30", so maybe I'm getting that bow up near the 47#-48# that you're drawing.  I'm shooting some long (I think they're at least 31" BOP) old GameGetter 1918's with 100 or 125 gr. points (can't recall which) and they fly real nicely out of my 76er.  I think 2117's cut to 28" are going to be too stiff (unless you put a real heavy point up front-- which will give you really heavy arrow that will drop off quickly out of your 76er).  I would think you'd like the arrow speed and flatter trajectory that a lower spine shaft with a 100 or 125 gr. point will provide.